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32 minutes ago, gellfex said:

Perhaps someone with this same very popular model will chime in with some setting suggestions. Odd that default would be so off.

Not really...there are so many different fishing places and conditions...I have no idea what they set the default for, but I've never used a fishfinder that worked best with the default settings :) Try to reduce the sensitivity until the mid depth clutter starts to go away. Reduce the surface noise as well. 

 

Try it while fishing...when you know you are over a school of bunker or something else obvious like that, play with the sensitivity/gain until it looks like a clearly defined school. They are pretty organized bait...their schools usually have pretty clear edges...if you see tons of clutter all around the school, it's not fish :)  

 

The best advice I can give anyone in general is to put your boat/yak over top of something you know - a wreck, rubble, a school of bunker, a school of bass, a school of seabass, etc, etc. See what it looks like on the screen. Make mental notes. Adjust the settings until it gives you the best picture of whatever it is. I'm gonna start taking a bunch of screen captures next time I go out...photos of the screen are tougher to see...see if your machine can do a screen capture - I think it's becoming a pretty common these days. I think a thread full of fishfinder shots would be very interesting...particularly, like Elias, when you know what is on the screen because you were catching them while they were on the screen :th:

 

TimS

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I know with my lowrance fish finder if I used the setup wizard  to set it up. I have to select what model transducer  I have. I could not tell from looking at the transducer what model I have ? On the card board box I got the fish finder in they put a check mark next to the transducer that is suppose to be in my box?

Not sure how I could verify what transducer I really have ? I suspect it would make a big difference with the set up ?  I have a color hook 3 and a black and white hook 4 with sonar and gps. It is much easier for me to read the hook 3. Also much easier to setup and use.  But it does not have a gps? Since I don't fish at night or in the fog not sure I need a gps ? As far as telling what kind of fish I am marking I like the suggestion to catch one and make a mental note

or take a picture of the mark.   To me fish finders are more trouble then they are worth. I like to follow the birds ?

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16 minutes ago, dbjpb said:

To me fish finders are more trouble then they are worth. I like to follow the birds ?

Fish finders aren't very good at finding fish...you still have to do that part...they will just confirm that you have found them :)

 

Fish finders are best for finding and understanding bottom structure...not for finding fish :)

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43 minutes ago, TimS said:

Fish finders aren't very good at finding fish...you still have to do that part...they will just confirm that you have found them :)

 

"Fish finder" is definitely the wrong term!  Sounding machine or sonar is much more appropriate.  Use it to understand the bottom and bottom structure.  Then maybe once you have that knowledge, you can use it to find the fish.  I find it to be a great tool, would hate to not have it.  Plus, its exciting when it lights up with a school of nice fish.

Edited by Northshore Bob

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On 10/9/2017 at 3:37 PM, TimS said:

 

seabass-over-broken-wreck.jpg

 

 

 

Can't believe those red bumps are significant, they are minuscule compared to the school of fish they are holding, is this how it is or are the pieces of the wreck not showing well because they are on the bottom?

 

I am closely following this thread, I'll try to update with some views from my finder as well.   

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1 minute ago, TazPagri said:

Can't believe those red bumps are significant, they are minuscule compared to the school of fish they are holding, is this how it is or are the pieces of the wreck not showing well because they are on the bottom?

It is amazing how little it takes to keep a big school of seabass in an area. The wreck in that screenshot is busted up and spread out over a few hundred yard area. The tallest pieces are 4-5' high, I suspect they are wooden ribs, none of them are very big. But the wreck is busted up over a gravel area...and there are almost always schools of big biscuits in the area. They will wander around the area...makes them hard to find some times. Seabass don't ever really just hold still...when they do they likely aren't feeding...they'll move a hundred yards off a wreck sometimes...and sometimes you'll see a giant school associating with a very tiny piece of structure. If you ever go to a wreck where you expect them...and don't see them...do a couple laps across the wreck a hundred yards or so in different directions...they are probably out wandering around but still in the area :)

 

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2 hours ago, TimS said:

. I think a thread full of fishfinder shots would be very interesting

Given the number of T&A picture threads I guess it's about time! 

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30 minutes ago, gellfex said:

Given the number of T&A picture threads I guess it's about time! 

Think about it....compared to women, fishfinders are easy to understand :read:

 

;)

 

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2 hours ago, dbjpb said:

Since I don't fish at night or in the fog not sure I need a gps?

 

 To me fish finders are more trouble then they are worth. I like to follow the birds ?

The past three seasons I’ve started really using a fish finder regularly and would never own one without a gps. If I find some structure I mark it. If I found it once I don’t want to have to hunt for it again. I've taken this to the extreme in ponds as small as 10 acres. 

 

Using a finder has paid off for me big time for flounder, sea bass, stripers and sharks. I’ve been on a extremely crowded reef before when the bite shuts down. When this happened I went around looking for all the small humps no one was fishing. When we found them we would all pull up a fish when everyone else was getting squat. The structure gets a waypoint for coming back a second time. Since the humps are small we get 2-3 passes with fish and then move to the next car size hump. Down imagining also helps with finding the small lumps. 

 

I hope to get more sucess fishing for largemouth with the fish finder in the future. 

 

 

I’ve seen some Hummingbird “mega imaging” screen captures that are in another league. My unit isn’t that high end but is nice for a kayak 

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26 minutes ago, willf650 said:

Down imagining also helps with finding the small lumps. 

I'm kicking myself for not using the DI looking for rockpiles when I went togging last week.

 

In Skinner's fluke videos he hits a waypoint as soon as he gets a good fish.  I was convinced of the use of waypoints and tracks fluking this summer, I could go right back where I got the hit, and it showed me my exact direction of drift.  This is also my 1st with contours, and it's totally cool. There's structure in there that is not on the standard charts.  One thing that has never worked for me is finding charted wrecks. I enter coordinates, but when I get there I see nothing on the sonar, probably it was on the chart for decades and has disintegrated.

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Gellfex, I have the same FF. I'm not that experienced with it though. How do you clear previous tracks? Mine, in certain areas just looks like a 2 year old colored on it. Lol

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43 minutes ago, Pma531 said:

Gellfex, I have the same FF. I'm not that experienced with it though. How do you clear previous tracks? Mine, in certain areas just looks like a 2 year old colored on it. Lol

Yeah some of my fluking tracks look just like that even from one trip!! You go to settings and start a new track, you don't have to delete the old one. I haven't found how to just clear it. 

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6 hours ago, TimS said:

Not really...there are so many different fishing places and conditions...I have no idea what they set the default for, but I've never used a fishfinder that worked best with the default settings :) Try to reduce the sensitivity until the mid depth clutter starts to go away. Reduce the surface noise as well. 

 

Try it while fishing...when you know you are over a school of bunker or something else obvious like that, play with the sensitivity/gain until it looks like a clearly defined school. They are pretty organized bait...their schools usually have pretty clear edges...if you see tons of clutter all around the school, it's not fish :)  

 

The best advice I can give anyone in general is to put your boat/yak over top of something you know - a wreck, rubble, a school of bunker, a school of bass, a school of seabass, etc, etc. See what it looks like on the screen. Make mental notes. Adjust the settings until it gives you the best picture of whatever it is. I'm gonna start taking a bunch of screen captures next time I go out...photos of the screen are tougher to see...see if your machine can do a screen capture - I think it's becoming a pretty common these days. I think a thread full of fishfinder shots would be very interesting...particularly, like Elias, when you know what is on the screen because you were catching them while they were on the screen :th:

 

TimS

 

 

I always find weakfish to be kind of a weird one on fishfinders. Sometimes I see them pretty good and they resemble those sea bass shots althought not AS many fish and a little more loosely on the bottom similar to Gellflex shot. Other times I'll catch them somewhat consistently without a whole lot of blips. Tautog when you get them chasing down your crab a few feet from the rock will come up similar to sea bass in my experience. 

 

But most of the time. Catch something by accident. Look back carefully at what that might have looked like on your screen. Remember that, repeat, build confidence and do it over and over.

 

Lake trout are frustrating to read at times to. I usually read them on the screen when they are on the hunt and overall pretty aggressive, then the lake might not have a blip for hours after that.

Edited by EliasV

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