Sudsy

Thinning epoxy - DON'T and here's why........

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Makes sure to catch the part about wormholes and water intrusion 

 

From this months Epoxyworks magazine..........

 

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Etex, but only because it's convenient to get and I've been using it forever.

West is better, just look at the finish on Diggers plugs, virtually flawless and he's a west systems fan

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Yeah, the part about warming the wood is really key, etex is fairly thick when mixed, but apply it to a warm wooden plug body and the stuff thins right out and soaks right in, to the point that it's almost impossible to get the end grains to quit sucking the stuff up......which is another issue, epoxy is heavy, apply too much and the action on your plug dies. Know when to say when, we want a well sealed wood plug, not a solid block of wood/epoxy matrix.

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21 hours ago, rollincoal said:

I haven’t got system 3 in awhile but I am curious how this relates...

Huh ??

Read the bottle of the epoxy you're using, look for the percentage of solvents to solids. If it doesn't tell you, contact the company and find out.

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Seems you ALL are talking about finishing, not sealing !!!

 

Why am I see so many commercial plugs where the paint and finish begin to crack, especially around the belly swivel ??? 

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This conversation is really about sealing the raw wood

Everyone already knows you should never thin epoxy that's being used as a top coat.

Edited by Sudsy

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1 hour ago, frazerp said:

Why am I see so many commercial plugs where the paint and finish begin to crack, especially around the belly swivel ??? 

Because it takes too much time and effort to epoxy seal the raw wood on commercial plugs, there goes a big chunk of profit margin.

Belly holes, lip slots, sometimes tail weights and eye sockets have edges where you don't get a good seal between the sealer, paint and top coat. Water gets in and everything separates.

Edited by Sudsy

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