rwalter7

Ripping a long length of cedar

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I have a 14 ft length of 1x10 cedar I need to rip to make a 45 degree edge on one edge of the board and the 45degree cut has to be as precise as possible. What's the best way to get a precise cut on a table saw? Does one lay the board on it's face or on edge to cut?  Need to have control at the blade but I'm not sure how to attain that. I'm thinking this is a 2 person job with some saw horses at table saw height.

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Rip where ??

In the middle, just one edge ??

If a middle rip one piece will have a rougher edge !!!

Should have some hold downs along the fence & you can do it yr self with one sawhorse if it'll glide happily.

As for the 45, use some scrap 1st ...

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Angle blade to 45 deg, set fence for width you want, put feather board before blade to keep board tight to fence, set up a couple outfeed rollers or a helper to support outfeed stock, done

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1 hour ago, ted527 said:

Angle blade to 45 deg, set fence for width you want, put feather board before blade to keep board tight to fence, set up a couple outfeed rollers or a helper to support outfeed stock, done

Here's your answer explained in perfect detail.

+1

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1 hour ago, ted527 said:

Angle blade to 45 deg, set fence for width you want, put feather board before blade to keep board tight to fence, set up a couple outfeed rollers or a helper to support outfeed stock, done

 

13 minutes ago, J Adams said:

Here's your answer explained in perfect detail.

+1

 +2  Thats the way we did Moldings and Belly Casing in the old days on a shaper

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1 hour ago, ted527 said:

Angle blade to 45 deg, set fence for width you want, put feather board before blade to keep board tight to fence, set up a couple outfeed rollers or a helper to support outfeed stock, done

Would you face the 45 to the fence or away from it ? I think if you face it away it would tend to pull the stock away from the fence ? 

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2 hours ago, ted527 said:

Angle blade to 45 deg, set fence for width you want, put feather board before blade to keep board tight to fence, set up a couple outfeed rollers or a helper to support outfeed stock, done

Plus

Clamp a scrap wood to fence to keep height same, you have 14 feet to work with.

And, no meter how perfect you set it up with this board for precise job I would get a helping hands, too.

 

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I'd be clamping a board to the fence also, the length of the fence to keep downward pressure on the stock, and the thickness of the stock to keep it pressed on the table. 

 

And I'd be spending a bit of time sighting the board for the crown. A board that long is going to be like a banana. And I might want to straightline the banana out of it.

 

And I'd be setting the blade height much higher than the stock, since a board that long is going to have weight on it, both on the infeed and outfeed sides, which will tend to bow the board downward on both sides of the table, forcing the center of the board (at the blade) to rise.

 

And I'd cut the first pass an 1/8th or so wide. Second pass can clean it up nicely to desired dimension.

 

But., that's just me.  Good luck!

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that's guys. I'm an electrical guy. not a wood guy. good tips.  based on the responses I'm going to clamp some pieces of wood to the table as in and out feed guides. I've got a couple of casters I can use to provide downward force to keep the plank on the surface of the table.  Obviously cutting it "freehand" so to speak isn't the way.

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When I was ripping a lot of strips for canoes I used a board screwed to the fence, 3 feather boards, front and back of the blade, one to hold it down behind, 12 feet of one by in and out on horses.  The stuff you do for another pair of hands.  

 

 

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