Fishy Fisher

Thru Drilling

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I ruined 2 good pieces of maple screwing up my thru drilling. I'm getting a lot of drift. I start by piloting on the lathe and finishing with a hand drill, but I'm getting a lot of wander with the bit. All drilling is at the lowest speeds and only about 1/2" at a time to clear the flutes on the bit. Anyone have some good tips to keep the bit drilling straight?

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I'm assuming you're using red cedar (has the soft then hard rings - the hard rings tend to knock the bit off course)

Sharpen the bit it has to be extremely sharp, use a pointed bullet (brad point) bit, run the drill at the highest speed but drill slowly constantly backing out and clearing the flutes of chips.

How deep are the pilot holes ?

Edited by Sudsy

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What size bit are you using?  I use nothing less than 5/32", anything less will walk.  Also, start your holes with a shorter bit and then finish with a longer one.  Finally, Brad Point bits work the best.

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I'm using 1/8. Pilot bit is just a regular bit, so the pilot is probably 2-1/2"+/- (both ends, of course). And its maple. I never have an issue with cedar, and extremely rarely with anything else. Its just this maple that seems to be causing me issues. I'm going slow, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Also, I'm not using brad points, so I'll pick up a couple. 

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I use 1/8" without much problem either, but I start with a standard length bit on the lathe, drill everything I have with that, then switch to a longer 1/8" bit, again, on the lathe, to finish drilling thru. Much more accurate being able to work between the centers of the lathe....not impossible to screw up, but much harder.

 

The 1/8 bit I use is from Home Depot, they are 12" long when new, I cut them down to 7", I can drill thru anything I make with it.

Edited by Ed White

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I'll look in home depot. The long bit I've been using came from Amazon. Its doesn't have the brad point.

I just looked on Amazon for a long 1/8 brad point bit and I could not find one that wasn't part of a set. I don't want to pay for a bunch I'll never use. Where is a good place to look for a long brad point bit?

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1 hour ago, Great White said:

What size bit are you using?  I use nothing less than 5/32", anything less will walk.  Also, start your holes with a shorter bit and then finish with a longer one.  Finally, Brad Point bits work the best.

Likewise. Stiffer, doesn't walk.

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33 minutes ago, Fishy Fisher said:

I'll look in home depot. The long bit I've been using came from Amazon. Its doesn't have the brad point.

I just looked on Amazon for a long 1/8 brad point bit and I could not find one that wasn't part of a set. I don't want to pay for a bunch I'll never use. Where is a good place to look for a long brad point bit?

McMasters online

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How are you drilling?  Drill press?

I do mine on my lathe, it takes practice, but now almost 100% success rate...(knock on wood!) I started by drilling my slabs of wood first, so I didn't ruin a good "shaped" lure, now, I feel comfortable to drill after I shape.

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You're limiting yourself. What what if the eye loop hole needs to be under or over the centerline ?

Very few of my metal lips have the loop centered at the nose

Edited by Sudsy

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2 hours ago, Sudsy said:

You're limiting yourself. What what if the eye loop hole needs to be under or over the centerline ?

Very few of my metal lips have the loop centered at the nose

Oversized eye loop can be bent up or down. That's how I do it but then again, I'm new at it, winging it, and don't have a clue where the eye should go until I test it out. ;-) Annnndddd that's another reason I don't do too many metal lips. 

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Most metal lips have the lip slot near the centerline, which moves the thru wire hole lower....how near the centerline, and how much lower, that's where the magic comes in, get it right and you made a plug, get it wrong and you have a shiny stick with hooks.

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Look for long drills with parabolic flutes. 5/32 is what you need for  nice fit of a nose grommet. I bought 1/8, 5/32 and 3/16. Never needed anything else. Start holes in from both ends with jobbers length bit. Finish with long parabolic bit in the lathe.

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