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Bunker Chunks

Fuji LS-7 Plate style reel seat

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I use these on a few rods. A couple are taped on and some are wrapped on to match the guide wraps. I have no issue with them. Take the time to get the moveable part as tight as possible before shutting the clamp. If the reel foot is to thin to get a very tight fit, a wrap or two of electrical tape will solve that. I also put one wrap of tape over the clamp so it doesn't accidentally pop up... although that has never happened when I have used these with no tape.

 

Some guys don't like these because they are bothered by the feel or thickness when they grip the rod. Others say they can't get them tight or they seem to flex. Not had either of these issues.

 

Not sure why I put tape over th wraps on this one. Been a while and I'm old....:confused:

1822918

1822919

1822920

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We are not old oneduz. We are simply experienced, mature, sensible and focused sorts who have bigger things to think about than tiny details.

Regards

Puck

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I like plate seat wrapped directly to the blank. I have purchased used rods that had them wrapped over cork tape and it did not seem as stable to me. The last rod I re-wrapped originally had the plate seat over the cork tape. I re-wrapped directly to the blank and did a cord wrap on the butt. I had to wrap the first foot of the reel seat with thead and apply finish before doing the cord wrap. When the finish dried I did the cord wrap up over the thread/finish and up to the middle wrap section of the plate seat and than did the thread on the middle section, applied finish and waited for it to dry. Once dry I did the cord wrap over the thread/finish up to the last plate seat foot, applied finish and waited for it to dry. Once dried I finished the cord wrap over the thread/finish and up though the fore grip section. Before you decide to use a plate seat check to make sure the reel fits into the seat well. On some reels the clamp will hit the reel frame and not allow you to close it tight on the reel. For this reason on some reels I have had to flip the plate seat around so the clamp can clear the reel frame. On the rod pictured below, the clamp will rub against the frame as I close it but it ends up tight enough as to not be a problem.

 

1823055

 

 

On lighter rods I have built the butts with no reel seat and than placed the plate seat over the tape on the butt. I than used some heat shrink to hold the plate seat in place. Once the heat shrink was on I than wrapped thread over the heat shrink to make it a tighter hold. It works well I do not have the rod with me to take a picture but will post one when I get a chance.

 

Also another thing to consider when using a plate seat is adding the palming support piece that is available as a trigger. You can put it on upside down and it works very well as a trigger. Below is a photo of a Zziplex Sea Raider II built using the palming support as a trigger.

 

1823054

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Thanks for the reply.  Those look great.  I checked to make sure the reel (sl30sh) I will be using fits tight and it did.  On that 1567 blank, I would have had to use a 26 reel seat if i went with a traditional one.  I felt that was way to bulky.  I have another 1567 to start on tomorrow, and I plan on using the plate style.   


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You are going to enjoy the feeling of your reel rocking back and forth no matter what you do to the feet. If we have to tape over the moving hood to keep things secure there is an inherent design fault with plate seats. I have used them in the past. Best thing I can say about them is that they are cheap, light and easily re- positioned. Fit one to a rod that will be fishing pencil, poppers and have a ball. :D Poor is the kindest word I can come up with to describe them.

 

Mike

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You are going to enjoy the feeling of your reel rocking back and forth no matter what you do to the feet. If we have to tape over the moving hood to keep things secure there is an inherent design fault with plate seats. I have used them in the past. Best thing I can say about them is that they are cheap, light and easily re- positioned. Fit one to a rod that will be fishing pencil, poppers and have a ball. :D Poor is the kindest word I can come up with to describe them.

 

Mike

 

I'm no expert or builder. Just have some experience using rods with these and I can only share my experience. First point is I never said that I had to tape over the tab that locks the seat. I am a cautious man and like to anticipate potential problems and prevent them... so I do it just to be sure, not because I have ever seen or heard that it happens. Second I have spent many hours with 9', 10' and 10'6" Lami glass rods using pencils much of the time and have not had the rocking experience to any noticeable or bothersome degree when the seat was properly installed and secured. Do I prefer a regular reel seat? Probably... most of the time. Do I also use rods with no seat and the reel taped on? Yes... and I like that too.

The first seat I taped did rock with my 706, but I re-did it and it was satisfactory. Also, on blanks with thick butts, I sometimes will opt to tape the reel on (spinning 706's) because the added thickness of the flat seat is more than my stubby hands like to hold.

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1 dozenraw,

 

I take all your points. I have taped the moving hood myself to try and stop the darned thing flipping open under casting loads. It is up to the individual if they like them or not. I have used them on some rods but never really thought much of the design or how they performed. But for Guys who have not used them before it is useful I think to get a range of views. The great thing is they are cheap and can be easily discarded if they are not liked. They are also great to carry on a trip and can make for a rapid repair away from a proper workshop and keep you fishing.

For Guys with small hands they can be helpful when clamping down with the thumb onto conventional spools and for guys building rods and trying to work out just where they really want to position their reel seats before committing say to a DPS type. But for me at any rate they are very much a second rate reel seat and passé.

 

Mike

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1 dozenraw,

 

I take all your points. I have taped the moving hood myself to try and stop the darned thing flipping open under casting loads. It is up to the individual if they like them or not. I have used them on some rods but never really thought much of the design or how they performed. But for Guys who have not used them before it is useful I think to get a range of views. The great thing is they are cheap and can be easily discarded if they are not liked. They are also great to carry on a trip and can make for a rapid repair away from a proper workshop and keep you fishing.

For Guys with small hands they can be helpful when clamping down with the thumb onto conventional spools and for guys building rods and trying to work out just where they really want to position their reel seats before committing say to a DPS type. But for me at any rate they are very much a second rate reel seat and passé.

 

Mike

 

 

:agree:

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The best way to use these is with the fixed hood on the rod tip side of the reel. This way the strain is on the fixed hood not the moving hood.

 

Cheers

 

Tim

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Allard View Post

The best way to use these is with the fixed hood on the rod tip side of the reel. This way the strain is on the fixed hood not the moving hood.

Cheers

Tim



That is the same thought I had.  


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