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StriperNinjitsu

Type of line for plugs

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Hello everyone,

 

Im pretty new to striper fishing and just purchased my first SS zig zag and SS little neck popper. Upon using them, should I tie braid directly to them or use a mono leader with a snap clip to the lure? My current setup is pretty noobish; a mojo surf 9ft paired with a Shimano stradic FJ4000 (30lb ss powerpro). Would this setup also be able to withstand chucking these lures? Last thing i would need is my first investment into Super strike lures popping off haha. Any tips and suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

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Hello everyone,

 

Im pretty new to striper fishing and just purchased my first SS zig zag and SS little neck popper. Upon using them, should I tie braid directly to them or use a mono leader with a snap clip to the lure? My current setup is pretty noobish; a mojo surf 9ft paired with a Shimano stradic FJ4000 (30lb ss powerpro). Would this setup also be able to withstand chucking these lures? Last thing i would need is my first investment into Super strike lures popping off haha. Any tips and suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

The conventional way is braid to swivel to fluorocarbon leader to TA or Breakaway clip. Your setup is nice. Maybe a little small on the reel but that just makes it more fun.

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Braid can be frustratingly fragile when connected directly to the lure. It does not do well around fish's mouths and gill plates. It is also visible, and most fishermen prefer the clearer mono and fluoro at the terminal end.

 

Because we are fishermen, and, by definition, cannot agree on even the most basic truths, there are several schools of thought on leaders. They break down around three issues: leader length, leader strength, and connections.

 

Some guys prefer a leader that is stronger than their main line, to ensure that the places of greatest risk is adequate. For 30# braid, this would require 50+# leader. Others use a lighter leader than their braid to ensure that the braid is protected when they have to break off. These guys would use 20-30# leader tests with your line.

 

Leader lengths vary from 12" to 15' or more. Those using longer leaders, called shock leaders, are using them to prevent break-offs on the cast with baits that exceed the ability of the line to cast them. Shock leaders are typically attached to the main line with a knot, either uni to uni or a modified Albright and are always heavier than the running line. The rule of thumb is ten pounds of line test for each ounce of lure weight. As you are using 30# braid, you can comfortably cast most plugs without issue, so you really don't need a shock leader. Spinning gear is also hard on knots when used with a shock leader.

 

For the guys using shorter leaders, some prefer 3-4' and others go shorter. Most use a swivel instead of knot to connect the leader. The preferred knot is the Palomar, which can be tied at all three connections, and is strong, reliable and easy to tie. Using two Palomars with a swivel is generally considered to be stronger than using a knot to knot connection with shorter leaders. If using a longer leader, you need to be careful to avoid bringing the swivel into the top guide of the rod, or you may damage it.

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I went leaderless for a few years and didn't notice any reduced frequency of hits or hookups. For me, the leader serves two purposes:

1) provide abrasion resistance and prevent cutoffs on barnacles, rocks, etc.

2) Prevent braid from slicing your fingers when landing a fish

 

The leaders I use vary by the prevalent size of fish, size of plugs and structure. I typically use about 30# test mono for more open water, and 60 or even 80# for boulder fields or heavy current waters with a probability of large fish. I use a uni knot to uni knot connection to tie braid (Fireline 30#) to leader and an improved clinch knot to connect leader to a Tactical Anglers clip. I have no problems with this system. I don't like fluoro because knots are more difficult.

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Just practice tying your knots over and over with saliva to make the knot slide tight. Bad knots weaken your line / leader strength considerably. If your about to use a knot that looks a little "off", cut it off and re-do it, never take a chance and after using the same line / leader set up for a while, replace it. The extra amount of leader material you go through is cheap compared to casting off a new lure or even worst, losing a good fish during the fight. Believe me, I've learned all these lessons the hard way!

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There doesn't seem to be any advantage to tying braid directly to plug. And a lot of downside.

First of all, every time you need to change a plug, in the dark, with rain or wind, you're going to tie another knot? Not great whatsoever.

As Baldwin said, you need it to prevent getting your hand sliced when you reach for the line with fish on. The leader can be grabbed. The line cannot.

And the leader offers more protection from abrasion, rocks, cutoffs.

40-60 lb. 40 maybe lighter duty, back bays, flat surf, sand beach, no rocks...heavier around boulder fields/rocks.

Fluorocarbon is supposed to be invisible underwater. Used to be, I think, more for picky fish in high-visibility water.

Now it seems to be gaining popularity as the main leader material in any conditions despite high cost.

For me, 36" is comfortable leader length. 48" is challenging. Sometimes you don't want that much line out when casting.

Braid to good quality barrel /SPRO swivel, with improved clinch...perhaps double-up the loop around the eye of the swivel, and then 7-9 turns around the standing line instead of the usual 6. Draw down knots tightly.

they should look neat, not with coils jumbled on top of each other. You should have some good knot book or find stuff online and print it out for future reference (like when in the truck at 2 AM trying to figure out some knot you knew four days ago in your living room)

 

The knots with heavy mono and especially fluorocarbon are challenging. tough to get right because the material is so stiff. Use spit of course, and use pliers to help tighten. Again, nice neat coils.

Personally I do not think the shock leader thing is applicable to most plugging conditions. Maybe if you're chunking bait, heavy bait with weight. You want to lob that out there but it puts a wicked strain on the line right at the rod tip. Or you have some very heavy jointed-pikies or swimmers that weigh like 4 ounces. Maybe you want a shock leader to get your plug 36" from rod tip, all the way down the rod, and around the reel a few turns. This way the stress of the cast is transmitted all the way down from the rod tip and into the reel. Distributes the load more so you don't risk break-off where the line leaves the rod tip. Shock leader not too popular from what I've seen.

 

TAC clips are awesome. Once you get used to them, changing plugs is pretty easy and no more crushed fingernail tips from messing with a conventional or coast-lok snap swivel. Plus they are ridiculously strong. Will not pull out like snap swivels do. Pretty low profile with regards to visibility and picking up weed. the coastloks were bigger an d picked up more weed. some plugs are a bit of a PITA with TACs though. Like if the swimmer has a thick split ring...better to get clipped onto the eye of the plug itself . A lot easier to get the plug OFF that way too.

 

Just my experience; I'm no expert.

 

Also, obviously, tie up leaders before hand and keep them in little tiny ziplocs or in a leader wallet where you can easily get to them without fumbling in the dark.

Barrel swivel. leader, TAC clip. You may want to tie some "light -duty" (40 pound- smaller TAC clips) and heavy-duty (60 pound leader and heavier tack clips.) Or some with hook-leader-swivel for eels.

Or maybe you want some 24" and some 36", or whatever works for you. One of my dumb mistakes. Used to try to tie leaders on the beach or rocks. Finally wised up with the help of some of the more enlightened guys here.

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Why is your setup a noob setup? The mojo line are great rods. The 9 ft 1-4 ounce is a little stiff but I like it for some applications and you can use it for an all around rod. Working bombers and the such are a little tough with that rod but doable. I am assuming your new to this so don't succumb to to the hype of latest and greatest. I've caught very nice fish with that rod and am very happy with it. I always fish with a swivel unless it's really weedy. If you have solid knots you will be fine. A lot of people say not to use swivels because they reel the swivel to the rod tip, I don't get it it's not that hard to know where your plug is. As you get better your feel for how far, or where your plug is depending on your retrieve speed. Reeling in a barrel swivel is not a valid excuse in my book but to each his own. While your fishing visualize your plug and what it is doing throughout the whole retrieve and you will be fine. Don't wonder off into space if your not catching that's usually when a strike will occur. Is my rod in the correct position to work the plug in the correct way and am I ready to bury the hooks is what u should be thinking about. Swivels also allow for quick easy leader changes

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Use braid for plugging, don't go with Mono or Fluro since the line snaps easily. And you'll lose your expensive plugs! 

this statement is not true.

I plug with mono and my line does not break.

where did you get this info from?

 

 

H-H

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