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biggstriper

Rifle cleaning- Bore Snakes

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I've never used these things before. I always used the old three piece cleaning rods with the metal borecleaner tips.

 

I bought a bore snake this weekend after seeing them used in You Tube video and on tv.

 

Do you put bore cleaner on the snake before using them or not?

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Something similar for shotguns called a Tico Tool.

I have several of these...different gauges.

 

It's rigid (vs the snake) but the principal's basically the same. Shotguns don't matter so much, other than to wipe them out and oil them down.

The Snake is fine for that too, but it's not going to do any serious work.

 

Good in the field or if you need to pack something on a hunting trip...especially in a rainy area.

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The real question just might be, just how clean does it need to be?

 

I don't strive to remove every last trace of copper every time I clean. Unless I notice a downgrade in accuracy, getting the carbon out is my primary goal. Copper solvents and JB only come out once a year or when things go down hill. I do treat every new, and new to me barrels with JB- a tip passed along by a gunsmith I used to work with.

 

I'm interested how the guys who regularly shoot the hot .22 and .17 centerfires deal with cleaning, those guns can lay down some copper.

 

 

:v:

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Meticulously clean to begin with and a light swab with Kroil.

This assumes that the barrel has been broken in properly (that's another matter...somewhat laborious)

 

Every five to ten shots, clean with Shooters Choice. Five Ten strokes with a brush and wait...then five to ten more, then clean patches. Swab with Kroil. Never more than twenty.

JB and more serious work with Sweets, etc. as necessary. Bullet (jacket) construction, obviously loads and powder choices, barrel construction/condition and twist rate all play into this.

 

Most of these wear expensive custom barrels, but not all...do the same thing with 6mms, 22s and 17s. This for maximum accuracy and longevity...barrels are expensive.

 

This is shooting for group.

You throw away the first one or two to foul the barrel, warm things up and get rid of any traces of oil.

I do basically the same thing with my hunting rifles and put them away with Kroil in the bore. This necessitated a fouling shot (day before, night before, morning of) into the ground or downrange.

 

.17s are a pain in the ass (whippy rods, jacket foul like a mofo)...but I have several one hole guns. They are a blast to shoot ;)

My favorites are still my 6mms...they shoot as well and at much longer ranges with light recoil. Plus they buck the wind better than almost any caliber..

 

As far as pushing a .17...Was working up some loads at the range years ago (old Sisk bulets) and was maxing out a 17-223. Accuracy got better and then fell off...way off. I was out at 200m on a calm day and when I went down range to check (you can't see the holes at 200m), was off the paper ??? (BR targets are small) Turns out the bullets were disintegrating on the way to the target.

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I have a bunch of boresnakes but use them primarily for trips away from home. A solid rod and patches is used at home but it is a pain to take with you on hunting trips in case the weather is bad. 


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These are excellent...I have several of them. My range bag has two because I have some guns with long barrels...you can always add a section or two.

 

1730572

 

I use one piece rods at home...or if I'm working with the 17s. Most of them are Dewey...some Sinclair...some others.

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My favorites are still my 6mms...they shoot as well and at much longer ranges with light recoil. Plus they buck the wind better than almost any caliber.

 

 

To this day I cannot understand why the 6mm family is underappreciated. The 7mm is close to the industry standard for it's "weight class" but the 6mm is equally efficient for nearly anything on the NA continent. I had a Mannlicher stocked 6.5mm Swede that wasn't the be all for accuracy but it took heavy bullets for it's caliber and the kick was very easy on tender parts :th:

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