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Beginner building XSRA1083

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Hi guys,

I have all the components ready to start building this rod. I am making it conventional and I have a few preliminary questions.

1. How do I go about measuring where to place the seat.

2. I have tried to find the spine by the simple splining of the rod (on smooth surface), but it doesn't seem to be evident. I am afraid of using to much pressure...

3. What can I use between the seat (fuji 20) and the cork? It seems like there will be a bit of a difference between the two. Is there some sort of electricians shrink wrap?

 

I am sorry for these novice questions, and I wanted to start a new thread because I am sure I will have more.

I have also read the articles here (great) and I have read a small book...

 

 

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2. I have tried to find the spine by the simple splining of the rod (on smooth surface), but it doesn't seem to be evident. I am afraid of using to much pressure...

 

No need to worry about breaking the rod while spining. If it breaks now, you've saved yourself a ton of time and hard work. Place the butt of the rod on a smooth surface - not the floor though, try a table or something where you will be able to spine the rod parallel to the floor. Next, let the rod rest on the fingers of your hand - sort of hold it but not tight enough to prevent is from rolling. Next - with your other hand, twist the blank between the pointer & thumb. At the same time, pull up on the tip of the blank to put the rod into a bend. You'll feel it jump, or sort of settle into a spot. You are looking for the OUTSIDE of the bend of the rod to mark as the spine. So if you are pulling up, you need to mark the side of the rod facing down (or just mark it and turn the rod 180 degrees) Do this a few times, roll back and forth - get imtimate with the blank!! After a minute, you will notice the spot is the most definitive spine. Believe me, it is a lot easier to do then explain.

 

3. What can I use between the seat (fuji 20) and the cork? It seems like there will be a bit of a difference between the two. Is there some sort of electricians shrink wrap?

 

OK, if I understand you right, you are using ?regular cork? or cork tape? If regular cork, it doesn't go under the seat. The cork has 2 sections, the butt & fore grip. The seat is in the middle. They sell graphite (cork too) arbors or bushings you can use. You can also use masking tape or drywall tape. Basically, they are about 1 inch long with a hole in the center, which you widen with a reamer to fit the blank. You glue these onto the blank, then you glue the seat onto the arbors. Just make sure the seat fits before you glue anything up.

 

One tip - get Advanced Custom Rodbuilding. It will answer almost all beginner questions. I built 4 rods with only this book, and no help from anyone. Trust me, it is well worth the money.

 

Billy

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Thank you guys very much,

Billy, I was not at all clear in my question, sorry. I was using cork tape and I wanted something at either end to protect it and also make it look smoother. I picked up a large electrical, shrink wrap sleeve and used this.

I did buy the graphite arbors but I screwed them up. So instead I used the dry wall tape, Did I make a mistake in getting the mesh self adhesive one? I wrapped it very tight and it seems to be quite solid... I placed an EVA (?) foregrip in front (much like a loomis forgrip on the surf series).

 

As for the splining, THANKS, I was doing it backasswards... found it.

 

I have been taking some pictures as I have gone along so that I might have more accomplished builders give me some insights, I plan on posting them after Wednesday, and once I figure out how...

 

Next, I have the guides taped on right now but next weekend I hope to tackle them. Has anyone built a similar setup so I can check my guide measurements (I don't know mine off hand.

 

Also, sorry about the first question, I realized afterward that it was unnecessary for this rod.

 

Thanks Again Guys!

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I hope you used epoxy over the drywall tape to hold the reel seat. I have never used the drywall tape, but from what I've read teh sticky one is what you want. I beleive guys also put some epoxy between each turn of the tape, but not 100% on that one.

 

I have screwed up the arbors too. Reamed an uneven hole, a hole too big, and a hole too small & tried to force it on the rod, and broke it. After a couple of tries you'll get it.]

 

The first question is valid, I just have no experiance with setting up a surf rod do I just ignored it!! I also am no help with "exact" spacing. I will say whatever you come up with, spend a lot of time test casting and moving the guides, even change guide size & add/subtract a guide if you feel it will give you better distance.

 

I do know how to set up a rod, but I was hoping to see someone else post with actual fishing experiance for a rod of this type. Let's hear it!!

 

Look forward to seeing some pictures. As some of you know, I also have some pictures rolleyes.gif on the net somewhere.

 

Billy

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Newby,

 

The following measurements are approximate to set up the XRA1083 as a conventional:

 

Distance from butt end to base of reelseat 18-22 inches depending on your arm length.

 

Distance from center of reelseat to #20 BNLGH or NSG stripper guide 22 inches.

 

Distance from tip top to first #10 guide, 4 inches.

 

Guide type and sizes: Fuji BNLGH or NSG 20, 16, 12, 12, 12, 10, 10, 10, 10 plus an SIC tip.

 

Let me know how you make out.

 

Al

 

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Here are some of my pics, so far, from the butt end...

 

wrap908769.jpg

 

The adhesive dry way tape seems great, it is holding solid and the epoxy was able to get in to it because it is mesh.

 

butt23422.jpg

 

This is where I used the shrink wrap, you can also see an unheated one in the first picture. Guess just over cautious...

 

seat67858.jpg

 

Seat went on fine.

 

complete1223123.jpg

 

Here it is all set... I put that foregrip because I liked the feel on the my factory loomis.

I will keep you posted on the hard part to come. And thanks again!

 

(God, I hope I can do this so I will have an excuse to get a more stable rod wrapping set up in the future... biggrin.gif )

 

 

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