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shawtodds

positioning grips

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i am a novice rod builder attempting a stand up tuna stick. kit comprises 50-80lb 5'6" pacific bay blank, five fuji hardloy guides sizes 20-8, reel seat and two tapered 12" eva moosekin grips.

questions:how do i get the grips onto the blank?

should the reel seat be positioned between grips, or where it narurally fits the blank which would mean cutting 5 1/2" off the bottom grip?

how do i build up blank to fit tapering of reel seat?

should i use a roller or conventional tip?

also appreciate any other building advice.

forgive me if the answers to my questions seem self evident, but as i said, i am a novice.

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DOn't take this the wrong way, but you need to buy some sort of Literature. THere are 2 books which are perfect: Advanced Custom Rodbuilding, which covers everything in depth. And Rod Building Guide - which covers everything, and is much more concise.

 

What are you looking to get out of Rodbuilding? Basica functional rods, or a dive into it where you'll be making all sorts of custom grips, reel seats, grips, and wraps?

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Definitely get the books and while you are at it, switch those Hardalloy guides to Alconites at the very least. Hardalloy chews up the line too much, especially under heavy load.

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Pick-up Tom Kirkmans Book(the information is more up to date) or go to Rodbuilding .org

that is a good source of info. For backing up that Reel seat you can use the Fiberglass Dry wall tape to make arbors or get brick foam arbors to fit the reel seat I.D.

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The size Newell that you should use on that rod depends on the species you are targeting. I have a similar size rod that is a little lighter - Calstar WC665HC 30-80lbs test. I normally pair it up with a Newell 454. It has plenty of capacity 430-460 yds of 50lbs test for most species. This is a pretty common set-up for a medium standup rod out of San Diego for live bait. If you will encounter bigger fish you might want to go up to a 5 or 6 series to get the bigger drag washers.

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