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Softhackle

1088 Spinner

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First let me say Thank you Mr. Goldberg and Friends, I completed my first saltwater rod a 1087 caster and she sure is a beauty! Mr Goldberg my next rod is going to be a Sabre 1088 Spinner I bought the BHVLG-40hh then BSVLG-40 30 20 16 12 Sic tip #10. I will be fishing 30lb Power Pro on a Fin-nor Ahab 12 using plugs. As a general rule should I stick with 4 ½ inches from the tip for the first guide and ½ to ¾ further for the remaining guides?

 

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Soft,

 

Spinners are set up a little different. I would position the first guide 5-6 inches from the tip. Then I would place the 40HH 45 inches from the face of the reel. Space out the remaining guides in graduating distances. Since you are building a 9 foot rod, six guides should be sufficient.

 

To make it easier to position the guides, get some 3/16 surgical tubing a cut some thin bands, two for each guide. Slide them up on the blank and use them instead of tape to secure the guides.

 

After initially positioning the guides, glue on the tip top and perform a stress distribution test. Then adjust the guide positions as required.

 

Tape the stripper guide to secure and then test cast the rod. Adjust the position of the stripper guide until you feel you are acheiving maximum distance. Then adjust the spacing of the remaining guides.

 

You are now ready to wrap.

 

Al G.

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Mr.G after finding the spine on this blank problem #1 because it appears it has a compound taper and is very stiff. I attached the guides with sergical tube. Now it seems like this rod has its spine all fouled up and I would venture to guess it is because of the size of the guide feet not allowing the rod to bend normally. I would also guess it will become even more dramatic when I finish the rod wraps. My concern is that I would like to get a good bend in the rod while throwing poppers to 3 oz. When building/finishing this rod is there anything I can do to accomplish this. Or do I have the wrong blank and guides for what I am looking for. Yeah I know, welcome to the wonderful world of rod building. Thanks Bruce

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Bruce,

 

First spine the blank. If you don't have a spine finding tool, then place the butt end of the blank on a smooth surface. Keeping the blank at a 45 degree angle and support the tip with the palm of your hand, gently press down on the blank at the midpoint with your other hand. The blank will start to role in your hand and finally stop in one position. The spine is now on the outside curve. Mark the spine with a piece of masking tape and magic marker.

 

For surf spinning, where distance is important, place the guides and spine on the same side aligned with the reel seat.

 

Do not be concerned that the guides appear to be changing the position of the spine.

 

Let me know how you make out.

 

Al

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Mr.G I am going to take your advice and spine the rod proplerly and forget about what happens to the spine/stiffness after wrapping and finishing the rod. I kept the wraps short and there is not a lot I can do about the legnth of the guide feet. I am sure the rod will stiffen up considerably but we'll have to see how it casts when it done. I will chalk it up to the big learning curve of rod building. Who knows I may end up very happy with the rod. I just got done with the under wraps, trim and 2 coats of color preserver. Tonight I will wrap the guides and do the first coat of color preserver. Its going to be Metallic Red with Gold trim and grey over wraps. I tested it on a piece of spare blank and it look great. Thanks again Bruce

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Bruce,

 

Before wrapping on the guides apply a thin coat of finish to the underwraps. Let them dry for three days and then wrap on your guides.

 

Believe me that you will be very happy adding this extra step.

 

Al

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Well good thing I got lazy last night and didnt wrap the guides. Might as well stick with the convention and follow your advice. I will add the extra step tonight, one light coat of finish will be added. Actually I didnt just slack off the last few days. What I did was take a piece of spare blank and under wrap it with all the different metallic thread I have and then overwrap with all the other different colors I have. Now I have a real nice color looker up'er.

I found some nice combinations. Thanks again Mr.G

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Bruce,

 

I guess great minds think alike. I just did a "color stick" with all different combinations of metallic thread. It really helps people in choosing their wrap colors.

 

Al

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Al,

you mention the spine appearing to change after wrapping on the guides.I wrapped an 8 1/2' two piece loomis spinner and the spine on the tip section seemed to change 180 degrees after the guides were installed prior to finishing.

Thinking I made a mistake and put them on the wrong side I removed them and found out that they were on properly .Wrapped them on again and again the spine seemed to move 180 degrees.My thinking was that I had used too many guides but after reading your reply above I'm not sure.Is this something that happens alot and what causes it.

Thanks for all you help,

Ken

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Ken,

 

Most blanks have two spines, with one more pronounced than the other. However, when the rod is under a load after the guides are wrapped on the rod, one spine becomes more pronounced. This is the true "effective spine" where the rod comes to rest. It is even more pronounced with the reel on the rod and the line is strung through the guides.

 

Someone developed a new tool that is called a Vertical Spine Finder that will find the true effective spine on a finished rod. I will be demonstrating it at the Freeport Show in February.

 

Al

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Mr.G I applied the thin coat of finish to the size A metallic under wrap. Now, would it be better to use size "A" thread for the over wrap instead of size "D". I think this because the base is now smooth and I wont run into problems over-lapping the same size threads. Thanks Bruce

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Bruce,

 

You can wrap on the guides with Size A thread if you have tapered and buffed the guide feet well. After wrapping just burnish the wraps well.

 

Apply two very thin coats of finish to the guidewraps. Let them sit for three days and then check for nubs and bumps. Cut them away with a new single edge blade. Apply a final coat of finish and gently flame with an alcohol lamp.

 

Let the rod rest for a least a week to allow the finish to fully cure through.

 

Al

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