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Marky1

Blank Re-coat

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Have any you guys ever re-coat a blank before? What I am getting at is,I stripped the thread,guides ,cork tape handle..everything right down to the bare blank,and was wondering if it would be okay to spray it with a "urethane " coating.Has anybody ever done this before? I am planning on re-wrapping this blank over the winter to keep me from going out of my mind. Thanks in advance for any help.

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I have done it only once but with FlexCoat. I mix some FC, thin it with acetone and rub it all over the blank. I wrap the blank tighly with my hand and stroke it to make sure the FC cover everywhere included the scratches. Finally, with one continuous motion, with my bare hand, I squeegee (sp?) the blank from tip to butt, repeat that a few times to make the coating is as thin as possible (to prevent crack of the coating in the future). It would help it you wipe off your hand after every squeegee. Tip: you dont have to coat the last 15" or so where the butt and reel seat gonna be. The hard part is keeping dust off while the rod is drying, I clamp it standing up. Good luck.

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Flex coat will eventually peel, however that is a perfect way to apply it, but wear a surgical glove. The ketones in epoxy is carcinogenic and atacks your liver.

U-40 products Dura Gloss which is a one part eurethane. It is really hard, quite durable and very low viscosity so it goes on really thin.

CD

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Well so far,I've gotten some ideas.What I was hoping for is something that I could spray on ,something thin,rotate it on a rod drying set-up. Any other suggestions?

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To canyondiver: That "U-4O " stuff ,does it come with an applicator ? or do you use a foam brush? ...Also,How much working time , meaning that ,would I have only a few minutes to apply before it starts to dry ? Any input wuold be helpful.... Thanks in advance.

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I goofed!! The U-40 product is called Permagloss...

Sorry! As for working time?

It dries faster in hot moist enviornments. From my understanding, moisture makes it set. I would apply it with the surgical glove technique if you are coating a blank. For wraps just use a good bristle brush. It is very low viscosity (runny) so you do many thin coats. I hear you can re-coat in as little as an hour (depending on drying conditions) so you can do many coats in a day. It dries in the bottle or can after you open it so it is suggested to get the small bottle and pour the needed ammount in a cup for application. Tom Kirkman has a neat idea... Get the large size, put it in a can that it just fits in (add clean marbles if needed) and fill it right to the top. Put the lid on and now... Poke a hole in the lowest spot on the side and seal with a small screw eye. Now all you do is unscrew the eye and squeeze out the desired ammount, put the eye back and you are all set for the next time.

CD

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Marky, no need to turn!

If you do the surgical glove thing and stroke the finish on the blank to heat everything up a bit and then make a final tip to butt pass, you can just stand the blank upright and it will dry fine.

Any drips you might get will be under the grips and reel seat.

CD

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There is no reel seat, grips ..nothing but a bare blank. I just want to recoat it from the tip down to where the foregrip is going to end. So you have had good luck with stuff ? Clear as water? Thanks in advance ,will update in the future on how things turn out.

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Sometimes just a good coat of car wax will bring it back to new looking. There are regular car waxes and there are new polymer car waxes. Be careful though , once you wax it , recoating with a finish will be dificult. Try a section under where the cork handle will go to see if it works enough for your expectations. If it does , rebuild the rod and wax last after its completely wrapped and finished. If you don't like the way the waxed test spot looks , wipe the spot down with alchohol or acetone before putting the cork tape on.

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When I said it was a BARE blank, I mean BARE ! The blank was lighty sanded after the guides were removed with a fine grit sandpaper. So, there is nothing on it from the fore grip to the tip. I don't think a car wax will be of any help in this situation, Thanks .

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I just dealt with the same situation and asked the same questions

http://www.stripersonline.com/ubb547...c;f=7;t=002173

 

I just redid the rod with Gudebrod "Speed Coat" Rod Restorer. I think I paid about $5 for a 1 1/4 oz bottle at Mudhole. Went on fast and easy and looks great. You'd think the blank just came off the rack at the store. Not bad for a 25 year old stick (Fenwick - Grizzly SU 1388 cut to 10')

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If you ever strip another rod , you might want to use OOO steel wool instead of sand paper. Wax works pretty well over the fine steel wool finish. be sure to wipe it off good after using steel wool.

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Marky 1

 

Hi,

 

Here are 2 options, don't laugh at the first one as some builders do it:

 

1. Wrap the entire area with the color you want using A thread. Then coat with finish epoxy.

 

2. Clean the area real good. Spray several coats of the color you desire until the blank does not bleed thru. I have used Krylon paints. Let blank dry for at least several days. Coat area with color sealer/ preserver to have a hard coating over the color. Use U40 Perma Gloss to coat the blank. It does a very good job.

 

************ Be very careful using this product. Do it outside!!!! Even applying the Perma Gloss outside it still gives me headaches. If I had an oxygen mask I would use it. This goes for other products with dangerous vapor/fumes.******

 

Capt Neil

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Well everybody, started to refinsh my "Lami"3M-11,1/2 ft. , one pc. I decided to go with the " PermaGloss" This stuff is FANTASTIC !! Goes on easy , dries clear, just give it a day or two to dry ,and start wrapping ! I am using a cork tape handle,Fuji reel seat,Eva foam foregrip, I like the way it feels in my hands already !MUCH LIGHTER.Can't wait to finish it. Thanks for some of your input on what to do.

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