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Tarheel100

Aftcote Finish Traits

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I've used Aftcote on the last two rods I've built, and of course I've noticed the clarity AND the long drying time. Both of those are fine but I've also noted that after even a month, when it should clearly be dry, you can still take your fingernail and make an indention in the finish. Not easily, but you definitely can. My factory rods' finishes are hard as a rock. Is this normal? I'm doing everything by the book, including mixing for five minutes, mixing at least 3 CCs of each side, etc.

 

I've even mixed a hair more hardener into the mix, but I'm scared to go too far over a 1:1 ratio. Suggestions? Thanks

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That's how it is, you are 100% on the money. That flexibility has prevented my rods from cracking thus far - one was used about a dozen times for BLackfish, and only one foot showed signs of poccibly cracking, a sign of builder error prepping the feet.

 

Currently, Aftcote is reformulating the finish so it sets up quicker, which if they keep the flexibility the same, will make it an even better finish.

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That makes sense. Come to think of it I have also noticed cracking and other deterioration on my factory rods. What error do you think you made on the guide foot prep? I'm interested what about the guide foot prep would cause cracks etc. Thanks

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Not ground enough. Specifically the BNLGH and BHNLG's have such thick frames which do not flex, I feel you should take a lot off of them. Not just at the ends, but about 1/2 to 3/4 of the guide foot should be ground.

 

Another possible cause, was thread tension. Any rod I put an inlay on the ramp up the guide foot, it cracked.

 

I think the combination of factors has reduced teh amount of cracking, but I also feel teh flexibility of Aftcoat was a major factor. Also, I switched from those HN and N frames to ALconites, MN's. Much, much lighter, and are more than strong enough.

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I also use Aftcote finish on my rods and it gives a glass finish without many problems whatsoever. Bubbles arent an issue. I have to agree with Billy40! If they make changes to the properties of the finish to get it to cure a bit quicker it will make it a better product.

HappyWave.gif

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It may be me, but with the Aftcote I noticed a much faster drying time after a 20 second nuking of the components.

 

Although a lesser working time.

 

That's true of all finishes. Same deal with having a heated drying box. All things even, Aftcoat takes longer to set up.

 

For me, Glass Coat sets up fastest, followed closely by Supreme. Classic Coat is standard 4 hour set up, while Aftcoat is about 6. I never used anything else except Crystal Coat, even though I have a few others (Pac Bay Rodsmith and Amtak Hi & Low Build)

 

Glass Coat set up very hard, as does Classic, but I've had Clasic crack pretty bad. GC goes on my underwraps, this way it sets up hard and quick, and I don't have to wait as long for the overwraps. LS is also good for this, if you like LS.

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Billy, I alway spun my Crystal Coat for six hours anyway so I guess the Aftcote should be no big deal.

Do you put it on really thin or can you build a bit of depth on a coat?

Thanks!

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I usually put it on thin, standard coats for me on a guide is 4 - and I STILL get footballs, but at the same time I have the threads showing, which I cannot for teh life of me figure out. You'd think if I was putting too much on at once to cause the footballs, that all the threads woulld be covered, no?

 

You can definately put it on a lot heavier than crystal, just note too much and it will sag, and it will slide under the guide legs.

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Billy:

The reason for the footballs is due to the prior coat being too smooth. Touch it with a little scotch brite before the next coat. The reason for the threads coming through could be due to the angle your rod dryer sits at. I had similar problems. Hope this helps.

Rockin

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I can usually get it done with Aftcote in 2 coats, but on the guides with larger feet the threads almost always show through on the first coat. Second one takes care of it.

 

I've tried placing a little spot of finish directly on top of the guide feet, but it just seems to run off and disperse around the blank on either side of the guide foot. Also I think any heat application makes it run off the tops of the guide feet a little easier.

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Tom Kirkman posted about a trick to put epoxy on the trouble spots where the threads show through. You could search under his name to find it. essentially , you have to wait till the epoxy is just at the right state of cure where it still flows but not much to coat the areas with exposed thread. Anyway , he descibes it better. Worth the offort to seach here and read his stuff!

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