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eastbayfisher

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I trust that some where out there in yalls vast knowledge there will be an answer for my question. I am working on getting the supplies for my first rod but am running into a small problem. I read that ALL saltwater guides are wrapped with "C" size thread and that under wraps and some decorative wraps are done with "A" size. The rods that I will be building will be med-light rods for wade fishing. Saltwater yes but "C" thread seams maybe a little heavy? Witch thread would be the best for my situation? Your help is appreciated.

 

Thank you,

eastbayfisher

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You can use either a, c, or d...they all work!

Try using the smaller "a" size for the underwraps, and a larger size for the outer wraps (goes on easier).

I only build surf rods-I always do under wraps with A, and use D for the outer.

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"a" for everything.

 

Absloutely!!

I coat the underwraps witha light coat of finish and let it cure for a few days before doing my overwraps. The time to slice off all the little fizzies and nibs of hard thread is before the overwraps are done and I do two overwraps on surf and offshore stuff. The wrap is still thinner than one layer of "D" and way stronger.

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"A" for everything under and over guides. Sometimes C or D or A at wrapps in front of and behind the reel seat and down the foregrip taper. Almost all A on crosswraps but sometimes the patterns need something else.

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Check with Gudbrod A is for fresh water. C and D are for Saltwater. All heavy rods are done in D seen heavy rods done in A have guides ripped off on tuna and other big fish. I do rods for 2 tackle shops and they wouldn't accept Rods over wrapped in A

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Don't want to upset the apple cart here but A thread actually gives you a stronger holding strength than D, the reason is more threads per inch. On large guides, it is hard to get A to do a good job as far as cosmetics are concerned because you can see through it somewhat. Originally the heavier threads were used because of abrasion resistance. With todays high build tough finishes, abrasion is not a real factor. Think about it, years ago, all of our salt water rods were wrapped with E, EE, and F because we only had a soft varnish for a finish.

 

I know several wrappers that wrap only 80s and 130s and double wrap all of their guides with A with an A underwrap as well. No guides pop off. The reason they wrap with double wraps is due to cosmetics only. Their finished guides look as if they were taped onto the rod, no seams at all.

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Check with Gudbrod A is for fresh water. C and D are for Saltwater. All heavy rods are done in D seen heavy rods done in A have guides ripped off on tuna and other big fish. I do rods for 2 tackle shops and they wouldn't accept Rods over wrapped in A

 

Finchaser,

You need to teach those shops the truth! smile.gif

With "A" thread you get about 3 turns of thread for every 1 turn of "D". The "A" is considerably stronger per inch. As for guides being ripped off? Sounds like a mistake by the wrapper. The thread needs to be pretty tight on an offshore rod, but not so tight that you crush the blank or weaken it.

I have several rods in rotation the I use offshore with 80 lb dacron or spectra and they get up to 50 or so pounds of drag when I lean on the spool to stop a fish. This is typically more pressure than a 100lb rod might see unless you have a very experienced angler who knows how to apply maximum pressure. I have never had a guide tear off or come loose. I have had the finish peel off some roller guides, but I don't blame the thread for that!! biggrin.gif Switching to All American rollers now icon14.gif

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John, I was just looking through my blanks, saw an 80 Mag with your name on it, already paid. I'm never home on weekends, probably won't be until October - I'll be in Brooklyn though.

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