Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
big country

LS supreme VS flex coat...???

Rate this topic

15 posts in this topic

Ive always used Flex coat as my epoxy, I really have never had a great big issue, but sometimes its tacky, sometimes I get oily type swirlies in the finish, smoetimes it takes 2 days to dry, etc.

 

Ive heard people talk about LS supreme, anyone use it? if so tell me the good points, bad points. I hear that you can work with it for 30 or so minutes (as opposed to 10-15 with flex coat). it cures in like 5 hours, but whar are the negatives, if any. Please remember that I will be using this for a Custom ROd building side business, so it must be upto par.

 

Thanks,

BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BC - Don't take this the wrong way. You should not be having that many problems with Flex Coat. It should dry tack free in 4 hours, if not, you are mixing/measuring way improperly, and switching brands will be of no use. ** - if you are srying your rods in cold temps, then it will take much longer to set up, possibly 2 days, but the swirls in the finish lead me to believe something else is the culprit.

 

LS - My main use with it is as the underwrap coat, and a primary coat to soak in on an overwrap. It is quite thin compared to FC, and if you apply too much it will dry with footballs and waves. It is relatively bubble free and relatively clear, but not as bubble free as hi build finish which has been hit with heat, and not as clear as some of the other finishes out there.

 

Working time is very long, 40 minutes at 70 degrees, but it set up in 3 hours, and be ready for an overwrap in about 6 if you can control the heat at 95 degrees +. I've put a coat on an underwrap at 6AM, and wrapped the overwraps at 12 Noon, but that was in the summer.

 

I find I need about 3-5 coats to seal the threads on most of the rods I build with LS. When I build FW and fly rods, I could put 2 coats and be done.

 

I'm relaying my experiances with it, you SHOULD buy some, see how you like it yourself, and go from there. I think it is a good finish, just not for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree with Billy if it is right sometimes and wrong others it is your problem not the finish and changing brands won't matter if anything the Supreme should be mixed and measured with even more strigent controls.

The swirls you spoke of can be caused two ways - rare-enough CO2 and humidity can cause them and in most cases it can be removed by wiping with a clean soft cloth a few times when the finish has cured.

The more common problem is micro bubbles caused by improper mixing- the only cure with finish problems is careful measurement never less then 3ccs- mixed thoroughly for two to three minutes- the finish should be clear at this point in the mixing container-Tip- use a glass-shot glass as less bubbles are created using it.

Finally -pratice-pratice

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never liked flex coat. tried high build and low and just don't like.

 

LS Supreme is very nice but because its so thin it doesn't cover well require many coats as Billy mentioned. Other than that I' think its great.

 

My favorite is Classic Coat or American Tackle. High build type for both.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are having problems with flex-coat you must be doing something wrong. First off what are you measuring with? If you are using the syringes do you clean them out after use to prevent contamination? What are you mixing in? I prefer glass as plastic cups or paper cups often have a wax on them that can contaminate the mix. What are you stirring with? I only use a modified butter knife. Also avoid stirring in any manner that might wip bubbles into the mix, I prefer to actually turn the container of epoxy without moving the stirrer until it is mixxed. Last what is the environment like where you are coating rods? If it is too cold or too damp or too dusty you are going to have problems. Hope that helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

guys,

 

I appreciate the input. I understnad what youre saying about "having problems" with flexcoat. I am definately not doing anything wrong. I have built close to 25 rods this year (each with 3 coats) and my "problems" only happened on maybe 2-3 coats.

 

I miz with two drams of each part (4 drams total) in a plasic mixing cup. I use plastic stick to stir the epoxy. I never have issues with bubbles. my main complaint is that "OCCASIONALLY" I run into an issue where the finish stays tacky.. I can fix that by applying another coat. I like flex coat, Im just looking for opinions of LS Supreme (always gotta keep your options open).

 

One bad thing I hear about supreme is that since it cures so fast, it can become more brittle. anyone experience this?

 

I hear what you guys are saying about having to apply several coats to cover properly. thats a major draw back. I was thinking if you could still use 3 coats of LS, It would save me some time. I dont want the quality to suffer.

 

Ill buy it a check it out on a fly rod Im building, that seems like a good first experiment. now where can I buy it?

 

BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's alright BC, you can say made a mistake 2 times out of 75. wink.gif That's why they call it a mistake. By statng that you're measuring in drams, I can tell you your first potential error. You're measuring by a cheap, graduated mixing cup instead of syringes like any good builder worth his salt would use wink.gif . Those are mixing cups, not measuring cups. Even if the graduations on the cup were very uniform, variations in temp can effect your reading of the miniscus, as the resin is more viscous than the harderner and that is exaggerated as it gets colder. Anyway, I suggest you use syringes.

 

I'm not sure where you got the idea that LS Supreme was a brittle finish.(Hope not from our conversation. I mention one rod where the finish lifted, but that was probably due to the rod surface, notthe finish itself). LS Supreme is pretty flexible when cured.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To add to the inaccuracy of using measuring cups - if you are mixing one part in one cup, another part in the other cup, then pouring one into the other - the one which is poured out will always have some left over in teh cup, further making teh mixture uneven.

 

I don't wrap many rods, probably did about 10 this year, not once did I have an issue with teh epoxy not being mixed & measured properly. Spend $2 on your next order and get yourself Syringes. Don't get the medical ones, they have Silicone coating in them that'll eff you up.

 

I agree with OZ that LS is is more flexible than FC & Classic. Phil - do me a favor and buy yourself some Aftcote finish. This is more flexible than any other epoxy out there. Clear as hell too. Just takes an LOT longer to set up than what you're used to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BC, I used to have sporatic issues with finishes, the kind where you scratch your head and wonder how it happened. After I bought Stainless measuring spoons a Stainless Spatchula and mixed in tin foil I never had another problem. As for flexability with most epoxy finishes if you add more hardner than resin (2 to 1 ) the final product will be softer and more flexable but it will take longer to setup. I am not saying to do this on a rod but if you experiment with your finishes you will see its true. I also used to think the LS was a soft flexable finish but over the weekend I took a part a fly rod that I build in June and it was much less flexable than Classic Coat or Flexcoat.

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used LS on a couple rods and don't like it. In particular it dried clear but with a dark tint on a honey lami that I did my first fancy buttwrap on. It's an open wrap so it's obvious (especially to me). To add insult to injury, there are some mirco bubbles never escaped mad.gif .

 

Flexcoat and a propane torch is the only way to fly smile.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to use syriges all the time, but my hands would get all sticky.. LOL

 

no really, good point and well taken. I figured by mixing a large amount (4 drams is enough to do two rods if you had the time) I figured the margin of error really doesnt come into play when your mixing alot. kinda like if youre a little bit off on a small amount, thats alot, but if your a little bit off on a big amount, it shouldnt make a difference. Ill go back to syringes.. even if it makes ma hands all sticky.. LOL

 

as for being brittle, a few people have hypothized that if something cures faster, it must be more brittle. didnt get that from you.. as you are the rod building maven..

 

BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sticky hands - I have a Cure for that, I had similar problems with teh Sringes. You HAVE TO drill a hole in teh top of the cap and leave teh SYringe in tehre. I believe the size is 5/32nds (editted my me, I orignally said 5/16th, I was a little off, sorry). I will search another board and PM you the link. If I had a Digicam, I'd post a picture of 6 bottles of epoxy with Syringes sticking out of the top. Not 1 drop of mess.

 

Trust me on this.

 

[ 12-10-2003, 10:23 PM: Message edited by: Billy 40 ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Billy's got it. Drill a hole for the size of the tip of the syringe in the top of the epoxy caps. You never take the cap off. Just flip the bottle upside down, pull down 3CC, and you're good to go. When you're done, store the syringe in the cap and draw the plunger out so it doesn't get stuck at the bottom.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.