canyondiver

Quick Grip Tutorial

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buttlyout.jpg

First thing is to lay out the butt for grip spacing and reel position. If you want to use a reelseat, install it before this step.

corktapelayout.jpg

Next thing is to install the cork tape where you want the grip thickened. I I leave the tape off where the reel goes on fat rods because the rod is thick enough for comfort and it makes the grip in that area a bit more sensitive.

gripboundary.jpg

I tape off the grip boundaries and while turning the blank on the lathe, I use an exacto on the tool rest to part off the cork tape.

monocrosslayout1.jpg

I place a strip of 1-4" masking on each axis and demarcate with a pen.

Wrap your mono, crossing it at the dots and tie it down with tape. monocrosscloseup.jpg

Like this.

monocrosstieoff.jpg

This is what you get after shrinking down the tubing and neatly parting off the ends and wrapping and finishing. I apologize for not having photos of making the epoxy ramp that the thread rides up to the grip on. Guess I'm missing a few steps in there

finishedgrip.jpg

And in case you think I dont admit to mistakes...

Heres a boo boo that cost me $100 while trying out a new shrink product.

I have my suppliers but I know Zim carries or can get Quick Grip. I tried to find a big savings on this stuff and I got a little one, but the stuff is expensive.

toomuchheat.jpg

 

[ 11-27-2004, 02:17 AM: Message edited by: canyondiver ]

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Nice icon14.gif

 

What pound test mono ?

 

Can you do this without the cork tape? If so, how do you keep the mono from slipping when you're putting on the shrink grip?

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Ya like that, eh Bill? That is called too much heat. The shrink I was trying is an industrial product and took alot of heat to shrink properly. Unfortunately, the temp was far too high for the rod. Thought that might happen, but I have a really nice gaff! icon14.gif

Sudsy, I use anywhere from 50-100lb mono depending on the rod. I like the cheap stuff because its pretty thick. I think that was Ande 60. As for slippage? I wrap these things pretty tight and then slip the shrink on carefully. You can slap a quick coat of quick drying poly if ya want but I never bother. BTW, it's best to shrink from one end and work your way down the grip. Keep it moving to avoid heating up the blank too much... Hmm redface.gif

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Bobby, No problem!!

How's the grip? It's pretty decent. The stuff is an industrial neoprene shrink tube. Unfortunately it's also one of the most expensive of the shrinkables. It maintains it's pliability in cold temps but it doesn't feel squishy. It's quite durable, doesn't dry out like cork tape and looks very stealth. Let's face it... It's all about looks!! biggrin.gif Just kidding!

Where can you get it? P.M. WBGelbke as I know he carries it or can obtain it. I don't re-sell it so it's not fair for me to supply folks with it. I can do your grips for ya though. smile.gif

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Hey CD,

 

I looked for this after you replied to Chunk. Couple of questions:

 

1) Did you leave the tape on & just shrink wrap over everything as depicted?

 

2) Can you explain the epoxy ramp process? I am presuming that you used thread wrapping epoxy or rod builder's epoxy & coated the transition, let it dry, then wrapped it, coated the wrap. Or not?

 

Thanks!

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View PostHey CD,

 

I looked for this after you replied to Chunk. Couple of questions:

 

1) Did you leave the tape on & just shrink wrap over everything as depicted?All the ;layout stuff gets buried under the shrink... The seal is hermetic so there is no problem with water intrusion.

 

2) Can you explain the epoxy ramp process? I am presuming that you used thread wrapping epoxy or rod builder's epoxy & coated the transition, let it dry, then wrapped it, coated the wrap. Or not?

 

Thanks!

 

I make the ramp by placing the rod on the drying motor, mixing up any of several epoxies, but ALL slow set compounds. Devcon 2 ton being the fastest, and Petit Epoxy Paste Glue(? adhesive?) being one of the slower ones. You can use Rod Bond, or Lamar Ultimate Epoxy (heavy body)

Slather the epoxy on the blank/grip transition and get a thorough seal. turn on the motor and "wind on" the epoxy from a piece of card (matchbook cover is good!!) until you get the length of the desired ramp, build up the taper till it is a straight "wedge" if you like, or make it radiused. Screed the epoxy with the card to get a smooth transition and wipe the excess bead off the grip with a tightly folded paper towel and some denatured alcohol. Allow to rotate till FULLY set and allow to cure for at least 24 hours for the SLOooooW set stuff, 24 is fine for the 2 Ton.

I lay out my decorative wrap, or trim wrap to lay out from the grip forward, and then wrap from the tip to the grip so the thread packs down on itsself. Finish off the grip trans with a trim band (tipping) of contrastiong color if you like, finish with your preffered wrap finish and go fishing.smile.gif

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