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Stroth

Guide Wraps

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Will shorter guide wraps soften the action of a blank?

 

I've been going with underwraps an inch longer than the foot and then guide wraps 1/2 inch over.

 

I've got a rod now with much longer guide wraps (well over an inch)

 

I am assuming that shorter wraps will soften the action and make a blank more flexible.

 

Am i right?

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Stroth, I don't think you'd be able to detect stiffening from a longer wrap as opposed to a shorter wrap. However, you will add a bit more weight with bigger wraps, which is a negative, though on a surf stick it's effect is much less than on a light rod. But even on a surf rod, I don't underwrap and only wrap past the foot an 1/8" or so. I'm into the "lean and mean" theory of rod building.

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I'm thinking the same thing.

 

i have a fly rod that i wrapped with no underwraps and I am more than happy with it.

 

I think g loomis rods have to have underwraps for the warranty to be valid.

 

i'm gonna try a rod with short wraps and see if i can tell the difference

 

i'll also check on what clemens has to say---i think he has a chapter on wraps

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Stroth

The rod building artist's build with a larger wrap and most like to build that big butt wrap. I've seen rods along the canal from a builder that wrapped a butt wrap all the way up to the stripper guide on every rod he built. But I guess if you like sort of stuff it it's worth it. I've even seen one builder flex coat the entire rod. If I paid several hundred for a blank and a builder flex coated the entire stick I would be fit to be tied.

But all of this is not the way to get the most out of your blank. Keep this in mind, what I do in not necessarily right for everyone either. I build all of my personal fishing and casting rods as what can be described as working rods. Black on Black and I make as small of a wrap as possible. Some of my sticks have a small under wrap while others have no under wraps at all. Most of my rods don't have any butt wrap at all. And the ones that do just have a very small band at the end of the cork. Adding weight with flex coat does change the blanks action for sure, and can give it that soft feeling. Not only that, it also slows the recovery down when casting.

When you look back at some of those older rod building books keep in mind that it's just that, Old information.

I too also have some great customs, some that have been made and given to me, and some I have had made by certain builders just to own a rod made by them. Some of which are wall hangers that are not worth fishing.

Best Regards Big Dave

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Big Dave:

 

You're the man! clapping.gifclapping.gif You've forgotten more about rod building than I'll learn for a long long time.

 

Based on your post--I'm going to make this rod as minimal as I can.

 

No underwraps and light epoxy. Maybe just one coat of reg. epoxy or two coats of a light build?

 

Dave you're right about some of the customs. I've seen some of the work turned out by some local cape guys and it is unreal. There is some amazing stuff out there and some guys who have a real knack for trying different things.

 

Tightlines, and THANKS!

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Stroh,

 

Two coats of light build are generally all you need. Put your first coat on heavy, making sure to fill the tunnel area well, and then "wick" away the excess after a couple of minutes. Let it turn.

 

Then, perhaps the next morning, mix another coat of Lite and do the second coat to perfection and let it turn. Two coats of Supreme or Flex Coat Lite work beautifully, but I've had excellent results with regular Flex Coat too, so it's a moot point.

 

Happy twisting.

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