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Billy 40

Fun with Cork Tape - Part B

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As if Part 1 wasn't enough.

 

With a regular reel seat, does anyone build a ramp from the cork tape to the back of the seat? Or is everyone using shrink tubing or leaving that drop off from the seat to the tape there (you's have no idea how much that is driving me crazy)

 

I see the small foam pieces used i this area, and put one on my rod. Now I realize I don't really like this, and am trying to do something different.

 

ALso, how hard is it to get a clean edge on a transition wrap, without getting finish to spill onto the cork tape?

 

Got Pics? I like pics. I'll show you mine, if you show me yours.

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Billy, I was working on this exact thing last night and this morning.

The reel seat that I am using Just happened to end up even with the cork tape so I don't know if this will solve your problem, but this is what I did.

I put a wrap of masking tape about one inch or so around the cork tape to the rear of the cork tape. Then I put a thin coat of epoxy on the cork tape in the area that I wanted to lay the threads. Remove the masking tape while the epoxy is still wet.

After the epoxy set up I just layed down a layer of black thread over the epoxied area.

Then put a layer of pewter metallic leaving a band of the black showing to the rear but taking the pewter all the way to the base of the reel seat. Then I put on some color preserver because I want to add more layers without the next layer digging in too much into the previous layers. After the CP dried I put a layer of claret leaving a band of the pewter showing to the rear again but bringing the claret all the way to the base of the seat. Then more black with a band of the claret off to the rear and bring the black all the way to the base of the seat.

Tighten everything up and apply more CP to the black. It is not done yet but I think it will work out after I dress it up with a couple more bands of thread and get some finish on it.

 

For the butt cap I think I lucked out because I used two layers of cork tape on the base of this rod. It is a stellhead blank and one layer was just a little thin for my liking. So I wrapped the two layers of cork tape all the way to the butt of the rod and then put awrap of masking tape about an inch or so ahead of the butt. Using a razor blade I cut off only the top layer and insalled the butt cap over just the bottom layer of tape so it meets up nicely with the top layer of tape. If the butt of the rod is a larger diameter I think I would do the same thing and just put the butt cap on the blank only and have the tape meet it. I think it looks better than just butt cap over tape.

I will do the same procedure with the thread wraps where the tape meets the butt cap as I did at the base of the reel seat.

 

 

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If you are using the reel seat (not the plate) just run the cork tape right up against the bottom of the seat. Wrap over 3/4 inch or so of the cork up to the bottom of the seat with thread and coat it with epoxy. The edge of epoxy should run over the cork tape by maybe 1/8 inch and right up against the reel seat bottom. I've got a factory St Croix rod here that is finished that way. I imaging you might want to put tape between the thread and the cork if you need to pack the thread more easily.

 

Steve

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Billy,

 

I've done it a bunch of different ways.

 

For the butt cap. I prefer the straight black butt caps that are 2" long and flexible. Merrrick calls em "fish finder butt caps". I just ordered 30 if you need a couple. Use one that's too tight to get on by hand, heat it then put it on and it won't move. I usually don't glue em if they're tight, because they will wear through if they are heavily abused for a few years.

 

For the reel seat to cork, on both ends. You have three choices. Thread, shrink wrap or nothing. SInce you love thread work, you can butt the seat against a straight edge of the tape and put a 1/2" wrap to secure the end. Shrink tubing is obvious. The nothing one, I'll show you if you come for your printer.wink.gif

 

It's also helpful if you learn a couple of tricks on the tape. One is cuttig it on the proper angle to getit a straight egde. You can do this by wrapping masking tape around the spot where the tape is going to start/end. Mark the circumference on the tape. Pull the tape off and use that circumference length from one edge of the tape to the other edge. THis angle cut will allow you to wrap it on and get a straight egde. The other method is to wrap tape past your ending point and then cut it straight. This can be done with thread like you would square off hypalon. The only difference is that when you get to the fabric or adhesive backing, the thread will stop cuttin. Just hold a razor in the groove and pull up the tape into the blade. Don't press into the blank. Leaves a perfect square edge.

 

I have a few handles to make up. If you come by, I'll do them with you.

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Oznavad,

Do you mean this type of butt cap?

butt1.jpg

 

I heat the cap in hot water, quickly twist it on completely opposite the grip tape spiral, no adhesive.

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by BobNoFish (edited 04-27-2003).]

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Thanks. Phil - I'm getting a couple of those Fishfinder butt caps from Dennis, he dropped by last night and he basically said the same thing as you.

 

I was going to use a doorknob cap, due to my allegiance with boat rods, I figured every other type of cap sucked.

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KML - that sounds good, post a picture when you're done. Much to my surprise, I'm finding it is not rocket science, just tape, epocy & some thread here and there (and there, and there)

 

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