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Color Preserver Basics

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I am going to use color preserver (U-40 Color Lock 2) for the first time and I have some basic questions. I am using the color preserver not so such much to preserve thread color but because I've been told that CP is a good way to prevent bubbles from occuring in the wrap finish.


I am building an large surf rod (NSG Guides) using regular black nylon A thread for the underwraps and regular black nylon C thread for the overwraps. I was planning to apply color preserver and finish to both wraps.


My questions are:


(1) How long does color preserver take to cure to the point where I can put another coat of color preserver (of finish) on?


(2) How many coats should I apply?


(3) Should the rod be turning on a drying/finishing motor when waiting for the color preserver to dry.


I have a couple of other questions but I will post them under separate topics to that other readers can access them. Thanks for all your help.


Tom aka Duckwump.

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Apply the CP to your underwraps and wick off any excess CP. You only want the wraps to be tacky, not wet. Let it dry for at least 4 hours and apply a second coat and wick off any excess.


Now take a paper towel moistened with alcohol and clean around the edges of the underwrap to remove any finish that got on the blank.


Let the second coat dry for 24 hours and then apply your finish in the same way as you applied the CP.


Allow the underwraps to cure for three days before doing your overwraps.


Wrap on your guides. Do not apply CP to the overwraps. Just apply two coats of finish in the same manner as you applied the CP, wicking off any excess and cleaning up the edges with a paper towel moistened with alcohol.


After the second coat has dried after two days, check the wraps for any nubs and fuzzies. Cut them away with a single edge blade and apply a third coat with a full brush. While the rod is rotating use an alcohol lamp to gently warm the finish to remove any remaining bubbles.


You may need to apply an additional coat on a heavy rod.



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Mr. G,

I used CP for the first time on a rod and I think it was the cause of cracked finish on a guide. I had always been told that CP will lessen the integrity of the finished wrap. When you apply finish over CP it does not sink through the threads and to the blank.

Obviously you have methods to overcome the potential risks of CP.I was not so cautious about not getting CP on the blank. Is this where I went wrong? I love the look of the CP wraps and would like to overcome my poor application. Any other details or precautions?



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Once I stopped using CP I eliminated 90+% of my cracking and yellowing problems. This is my philosophy. When you use epoxy you generally rough up the surface so that the glue gets a good bite. Sooo... Why would you want to fill gaps between the thread????


Also... Some of my most classy lookin' guide wraps are those where I use metallic thread as an underwrap, then I use ordinary untreated "CP" thread on the overwrap. The entire wrap takes on a sparkling translucence that is absolutely gorgeous!


Try it sometime!

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Everything has positives and negatives.


One advantage of using CP: it is easier to repair later on. Once you get a sharp knife underneath the thread, it basically peeled off. Without CP, you are tallking about lots of scraping and sanding. But precisely because of this low adhesion with the blank, it weakens the wraps.


By applying the finish directly(the air bubble probelm can be eliminated by using diluted finish as the first coat), I found the color show through more brilliantly and I end up with stronger wraps. So far I haven't had the need to do any repair so I haven't suffer any pain yet.


By applying CP to the underwrap only (not overwrap) as Al does is a good compromise. But for light rod, too much underwrap can affect the sensitivity.


so I am thinking for the next few rods I will use CP on underwrap with double footed guides, but use finish directly with single footed guides.


decisons, decisions,..



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