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THEKID

Wind Knots when casting the GSB 1081M

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Al:

 

Quick question-

 

Any idea why every 4th cast I'm getting a wind knot (PowerPro 30# on a Penn 710) when I'm using the GSB 1081M? What are some of the causes of wind knots? Do you think the line is getting caught around a guide or something? The lures I'm throwing are right in the suggested range for this Lamni rod, so that's probably not the cause. Whatever info you could provide would be helpful.

 

Thanks,

THE KID

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Kid, I might have an idea why... 1) maybe power pro?? you kow how I feel after my experiments... 2) the 710 line roller, we need to talk to Fred B and find out how he gets his to roll... cause.. im haveing the same problem with my 710, only Im using a 9ft lami glass rod not graphite, its gotta be the reel and the line combo...

 

what do you think AL...

 

BC

 

 

 

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Hi Guys:

 

Al excuse me for butting in, but I have had first hand horror stories with the above combination smile.gif.

 

The Penn 710 is NOT braid compatable, PERIOD!

All of the Penn Spinfishers with the exception of the 706 are not Braid compatable.

 

The line rollers on the Penn spinfishers only roll when they feel like it! No amount of lubrication, reaming, polishing ect. will coherce these line roller into rolling consitently. For a spinning reel to be braid compatable, the roller needs to roll 100% of the time!

 

The only superline that is Spinfisher compatable is Fireline. The only drawback is that after 5 trips, Fireline looks more like a terrycloth bath towel than superline. It takes on a frayed jagged appearance and then it doesn't cast as well or as far as it used to.

 

So... If you Luv your Spinfisher, then switch to Fireline, If you Luv your Superbraid(Powerpro, Whiplash, Spiderwire ect.) then get yourself a braid compatable spinning reel! No other way around it... Been there, done that!

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I get wind knots when I try to cast a lure that's too light to adequately load whatever rod I'm using---whether the line is mono, braid or Fireline. The tip doesn't release properly and snap the lure, it's more like casting the line. The line overrides the spool lip because it's coming off faster than the lure--the lure isn't pulling the line along with it. You also get what I call "twist knots" when the line roller doesn't do its job, and major league loops and tangles when you overfill the spool. Stiff rod+light lure+overfilled spool+headwind or quartering headwind=get out the clippers frown.gif

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Prefessa,

 

Ive used fireline on a 704 for 2.5 years. Ive never had aproblem with it. I agree that the line looks like terry cloth, but, in my opinion, that what you want. It ties knots really well, its totally soft, has incredible abrasion resistance, and still keeps its strength. I love it when it gets like that. A friend of mine told me that if you unscrew the the roller on the 710 a couple cranks so that it spins in its housing, it will turn with the line as it comes in, I havent done it yet, but ive seen his "custom" 710... its a thing of beauty, the VS 150 doesnt have much on it, literally...

 

BC

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I think Ditch hit the nail on the head. Thanks, Ditch.

 

Prof:

I can attest to the fact that our pals' 710 is right up there with the VS 150. He did a great job on it. A thing of beauty, indeed.

 

I, too, have used braid on the 704z - believe it or not, Power Pro. It actually works pretty well.

 

All in all, I think I'm headed back to...15-20# mono. P-Line, perhaps. Any thoughts on P-LINE?

 

Thanks for the responses guys!

THE KID

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Guys:

 

I have every Penn Spinfisher made in the original GREEN color. The rollers can be made to roll MOST of the time. For these reels to be braid compatable the rollers must roll ALL of the time. I have tried braids with these reels and they are a horror story, but, I fish exclusively at night. The only superline that doesn't give you trouble is Fireline if you can getb over the terry cloth look. I found on light plugs I lost some distance when the stuff got all frayed, but,I was using the 20#, perhaps if I used the 14 i wouldn't of noticed any distance loss. I have tried all of the above, backing off the nut 1/2 turn, polising the inside of the roller, the spindle it sits on. Experimented with different lubes from WD-40 to superlube. Trust me... If you get the roller to roll, it won't keep rolling for long. Even Mike Quinn at Penn in Phil, PA. told me to give up on it! Quote from Mike "You'll never get the rollers on these reels to roll consistently, the reels aren't designed to do that." After all, most of the original reels had carbaloy rollers, unnecessary if the rollers were desiged to roll 100% of the time.

 

I am a big fan of my old Green Grinders, they work 100% of the time and are easy to service. They are just are not up to the job of tossing small plugs with superbraid! Now if you are fishing large plugs on your 704 you just might get away with it. Bottle plugs, Darters and Metal lipped swimmers tend to dig and the line comes in with alot more tension. I still think the clippers will come out sooner ar later.

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Just thinking.

How about removing the 710 roller and putting a neoprene o ring on it. If it fit snugly it would give enough friction to make the roller work. Replace the roller and go.

If someone tries this please tell me so I can make my 710 happy.

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I have a few Penn 710z's and one greenie and find that lubing the roller (DitchJigger turned me on to SuperLube oil w/ ptfe) every trip will keep it working fairly well. Its certainly not a Ball-Bearing affair, but it is good enough for mono, which I believe is what the reel was designed for. Fireline works well, but I wasted $50 on various braids and was turned off. You can always underfill the spool and you wont have any problems, but it cuts down much on casting distance.

 

I brought a 710z in for repair at a local tackle shop, and he put on a 5500ss bail assembly for me (maybe cause he had no 710 assembly left, and it does work a little better. To get it to spool up evenly you must mess with the arm and some pliers however, but it is not very hard.

Did this guy with his 710z retro-fit a ball bearing line-roller to it? Let me guess, he drilled the rotor cup to oblivion and the spool as well, wait till he drops that on the rocks. Been there. All that metal missing is bad, but it looks nice. I tried it with a tiny drill bit, one a little bigger, and one with some large holes. And I bought new rotor cups exactly a month after each busted. Two @ the West End Jetty (thats a long walk back with a rod/reel your bout ready to toss in the drink) and the other in my driveway.

I do love my new Tica Camry, that roller rolls baby, nar a problem with 30# whiplash or Power pro, but I have not been out more than 6 times with it. And I thought I was gonna be die hard penn 710z, head to the ground, listening to that god awful click click reeling in forever. Then I bought an abu7000

 

JC

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