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Tom Juster

Guides and top for XRA1083?

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I just bought a Lamiglas XRA1083 9' blank, and I'm excited about building my first rod. It will be a spinning rod, using 14# braided line, and used primarily here in Florida's west coast where we have no rocks, and hardly any surf.

 

Any suggestions on number of guides and their size? I was thinking of Fuji alconites.

 

Also, what size tip top for this rod? I understand it should be based on the line weight, so for 14# weight do I want . . . size 10? 12?

 

Thanks in advance.

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The Arra 1083 is a sweet blank with many members on the Board using it.

 

First let's address your question on the tip top. The ring size of the tip top is determined primarily by the ring size of the guide closest to the tip and any knot clearance required. In this case I would recommend a tip with a #8 ring since you will be using very thin line.

 

Yes, you can use Alconite guides. I recommend the ultra high frame spinning guides in the Alconite model YAG in the following sizes: 30, 25, 20, 16, 12, 10, 8 and a PST SIC tip.

 

Good luck and enjoy.

 

Al

 

 

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Al,

Thanks for your prompt reply.

Regarding the guides, what do you think of the BMNAG series guides? Aren't the YAG's single-foot? Don't I need double-foot guides on a surf rod, albeit a light one?

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...and one more thing. This is probably a stupid question, but what's the purpose of high-frame guides on a surf rod? I can see it maybe for a casting rod, when you need to keep the line off the rod, but why does it make a difference for a spinning rod?

 

Sorry for so many questions, this is all completely new to me. But a lot of fun!

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The YAG's will give you better casting performance and with no rocky shoreline or heavy surf to deal with will be sturdy enough for your application.

 

I sent you a PM (Private Message)

 

Al

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Tom,

 

I agree with Al on his guide suggestions. I built an XRA963 with single foot high frame guides and love it. I've used it in the surf and on jetties and have never had a problem with the guides.

 

I also have an XRA1083 that I plan on setting up new concept style. The new concept layout, at least the one I'm thinking of, will include the following:

 

BYAG 30, 20, 16, 10, 8JL (transition guide from high frame to low frame), then 4 BLAG 8's plus an 8 tip top. I may end up dropping or adding a guide depending on stress distribution testing. This setup is certainly non-traditonal for a surf rod, but then again, I gave up on how my tackle looks a long time ago. I've been extremely pleased with the performance of every rod I've setup new concept. They're lighter, cast better, and distribute stress over and sensitivity through the blank better.

 

Couple things to keep in mind:

 

- Single foot does not necessarily mean weaker in a fishing situation; it means you can't bash them around rocks or in a boat or the back of a truck;

- High frame guides with smaller rings work well with braid;

- The XRA blanks are light and sensitive; you don't want to weigh them down with heavy guides and a lot of thread and epoxy. Just my opinion.

 

Enjoy your new weapon.

 

Mark

 

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Al, Mark,

Thanks for the assistance; it was exactly what I was looking for. I'm really amazed that guys like you take the time to help out total novices like myself. But I'm grateful.

 

Al,

Your concept rod intrigues me. But what do you think of replacing the guides form the choke guide out (8L, 4 @ 8's) with Ti-frame SiC guides, plus a Ti-frame, SiC tip-top? This adds only about $20 to the cost of the guide setup, but wouldn't be a lot lighter? (especially near the tip, where it counts)

 

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I was just checking the mud-hole catalog, and I don't think it is a misprint, so mof those ti-frame sic tops were selling for $28. ummmm that is quite steep for a tip-guide, at almost 400% a regular sic top. The weight savings is probably in the thousandth's, worth it?

 

JC

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You are looking at Ti coated frames, not the Fuji solid titanium frames which are very costly.

 

For your particular application on the XRA 1083, my choice would be the Fuji YSG guides in the sizes I recommended. The Titanium frames would not be that much of an advantage on this particular blank.

 

I like to use the titanium frame guides on the very high tech blanks like the Loomis GLX particularly in the ultralight steelhead series.

 

Al

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Tom,

 

I also have an XRA1083 that I plan on setting up new concept style.

Mark

 

Mark,

 

A word of caution. I set up a 1083 with concept similar to what you have planned. The rod casts well and has a good feel, but I don't like it for a surf rod for 2 reasons. First the small ringed tip takes a lot of abuse from the acidentally smack of the swivel, especially at night. Second and more annoying is the the line getting hooked on the little guides near the top when there is slack in the line. This happens often when working a lure that creates slack, like a popper (especially a pencil). There are so many guides near the tip that the line always seems to find at least one. When I've used this rod it seems I spend a lot of time unwinding line from around the guides.

 

From a practical standpoint, the concept system, doesn't go great with surf rods in my opinion.

 

One other point. Although from fish fighting stress, tiny light frame guides are OK, but those little size 7 and 8 single foots sure bend easy during transport and non fishing handling.

 

Just food for thought. I love to try the latest ideas, and this is one instance I kinda regret it.

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Oz,

 

Thanks for the heads up on new concept and surf rods. I've used the new concept on rods up to 8' and have liked the results. Admittedly, I don't fish poppers as often as swimming plugs and jigs which both tend to keep enough tension on the line to avoid the wrapping problem you mention. I can certainly see, however, where the small guides, close to the blank could have wrapping issues if you were putting slack in the line frequently. I'm guessing that the wrapping problem could be even worse if you coupled a pencil popper, new concept, braid, and a parabolic blank. Most of my new concept rods have been fast action jigging rods.

 

I usually use a PST 8 for the tip top when my guide closest to the top has an 8 ring. Haven't lost a ring yet.

 

Thanks again, Mark

 

 

 

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I'd like to ask a question about guide set-up recommendations.Shouldn't the size/dia. of the reelspool at the lip be a consideration? Even if you plan on using a couple of different reels wouldn't one want to use the reel That will be used the most?

Whenever I build a rod conv or spin(not a pro builder)I try to build it for one specific reel and line set-up and then see what else it will perform well with.I figure that way the rod will be "just right" for one technique and will"serve in others" rather than have one that does a # of things ok but none really well.Just curious! Neil

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Welcome Aboard Neil,

 

You are absolutely correct. I always ask the person I am building a rod for to specify the reel and line that he or she will be using with the rod. The first rule is balance tackle: rod, reel, line and lure.

 

Once the reel has been specified and whether the rod will be spinning or conventional, will determine the type and size of the guides selected and their placement on the rod.

 

You can read more on this subject in Part 2 of my rodbuilding series of articles in the articles section of this Board.

 

Al

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