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Mark

Underwraps

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General question to the resident rod builders:

 

Do you use underwraps on every rod you build (i.e., fly rods, surf rods, heavy boat rods, light spinning , casting, etc.)? If not, which rods don't get an underwrap?

 

Thanks, Mark

 

 

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I underwrap them all. Saltwater fly rods are underwrapped as well. It protects the blank wall, especially with the new hightech graphite blanks.

 

The underwraps should also get a thin coat of finish. Allow the finish to cure for three days before wrapping on your guides.

 

Al G.

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Thanks, Al. I'll underwrap them all from now on. On some of my lighter fly rods with single foot guides, I've skipped the underwrap. Looks like I'll add it back in.

 

Mark

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Do all your underwraps in size A NCP thread. Give them two coats of color sealant and one thin cost of finish. Allow the underwraps to cure for three days before wrapping on the guides.

 

Al G.

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It keeps the thread from mottling and displaces the air in the thread to prevent bubbles from forming.

 

I have been using Clemens Brilliance2 and the results have been outstanding.

 

Al G.

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I understand the use of a color preserver, just not in conjunction with a NCP thread...unless you like that thread for making wraps with...why not just use a standard nylon thread with color preserver??

 

Phil L

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Al,

 

I've read that some rod builders apply a coat of rod varnish to the threads before applying the epoxy. Apparently, it really soaks into the thread and, like the preserver you use, diplaces the air. What's your take on this?

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To All:

 

I use either NCP or metallic thread for my underwraps and apply two coats of color sealant and one coat of finish. I do not use regular thread as an underwrap and apply color sealant since the thread color does not maintain it's color fidelity. After many years of trial, experimenting and discussions with other top builders around the country this is what works best for us.

 

As far as using varnish on the threads first then regular finish, I have never done that and would be concerned about incompatibility of the different finishes.

 

Al G.

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Al I'm curious why you use a light coat of finish on the underwraps. I can understand the color preserver (though I always applied it after all of the wrapping was done) but I never heard of anyone putting a finish coat on the underwraps prior to wrapping on the guides, I'ld be willing to try it but would be interested as to why. Thanks Steve

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Steve,

 

There are several reasons why you put a thin cost of finish on the underwrap.

 

It seals the thread to the blank and doesn't allow any moisture to wick in after use that will discolor the threads and cause corrosion of the guide feet.

 

It prevents the underwrap from moving when the rod is flexed. It protects the blank wall and minimizes the guides from moving that eventually will cause cracking of the finish.

 

I learned this tip from several different top rod builders around the country and it works great.

 

It does add several more steps to the building process and several days to allow the finish to cure before wrapping on your guides. However, many of my friends will attest to the quality of the finished product.

 

Al G.

 

[This message has been edited by Al Goldberg (edited 10-03-2000).]

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Al,

Having seen your rods at the Rodcrafters national seminar I can attest to their beauty.It seems that you use primarily metallic and black for alot of your rods.

My questions is are you useing the same black ncp sizeA for the overwraps?

 

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Al,

 

For those rods I've underwrapped, I've coated them with a thin coat of Flex Coat lite. In addition to the benefits you mentioned above, I've found that the thin coat of epoxy makes it easier to burnish the overwrap thread for a nice tight overwrap.

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Al,

I got you on the NCP and color preserver...I generally use a regular size A in the darker colors and an NCP thread in the lighter colors, such as yellow. I've played around with reg and color preserver with the lighter color and find it makes some interesting motteled effects.

 

Phil L

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