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Gilbey

Color Preserver/Finish Compatability

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When using color preserver do I have to worry about its compatabilty with my rod finish? Also, how long should I wait to finish after applying preserver? Thanks in advancewink.gif!

 

Alan

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No compatability issues I'm aware of. What CP/Epoxy are you planning to use?

 

I use Gudebrod 811S/Brilliance II, which is alcohol based (can be thinned sligtly with Denatured Alcohol) I'll usually wait overnight, but a couple of times I've waited about 4 hours before putting the epoxy on, with no problems. I think waiting a little longer is safer though.

 

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Thanks for the quick response Billy. I actually have not purchased the color preserver yet. The finish is Classic Rod Coat. I just did a test wrap and finished without CP and the warps came out a lot darker than I want. I assume CP will help thisconfused.gif. Am I on the right track?

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Guide wraps I assume. I do everything I can to avoid using CP on guide wraps. I'll state why I don't like it, whether or not what I say is true or a witch hunt, I don't care - too many problems for me.

 

> No matter how much CP I put on, there ALWAYS is a spot I seem to have mysteriously miss? I'm improving on my butt wraps, I can get pretty much 99% of it covered succussfully, but the tie off will almost always come out blothcy - I double/triple wrap the tie off anyway, but still.

 

> The CP doesn't allow the epoxy to penetrate and get into the guide foot tunnel. I've cut off a few guide wraps I did with CP, and they come right off, no mess on the blank or nothing. IT may not make a difference, but I feel better if the epoxy soaks through the wraps and bonds to either the underwrap or the blank.

 

> What I've been doing, and suggestion gto other people, is to use an underwrap of metallic, and overwrap with Nylon. If you use Silver, the wrap will lookexactly as it does on the spool. Gold will make it look almost the same, but add a nice "Gold Haze" effect. Pink Holographic and Purple over - lol GW8 is going to chime in on that color combo.

 

If you haven't purchased the CP yet, I suggest getting Gudebrod 811S. No cloudiess associated with some of the water based CP's, and it "preserves" the color better than the other CP's (I've only used one other CP, but the general consensus is 811 is the best)

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> The CP doesn't allow the epoxy to penetrate and get into the guide foot tunnel. I've cut off a few guide wraps I did with CP, and they come right off, no mess on the blank or nothing. IT may not make a difference, but I feel better if the epoxy soaks through the wraps and bonds to either the underwrap or the blank.

 

Not that I doubted you, Billy, but I did some testing, and you are absolutely correct with this. I wrapped two guides identically. On one I used CP per the mfg directions, the other I left alone. I then fisished both guides, let cure, and then cut them off. I was shocked at how the CP'ed guide just came right off the blank once I cut through the finish and thread! The guide without PC was firmly attched to the blank even after I shaved away the thread. FWIW.

 

Alan

 

 

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I wouldn't trust me either. It's good you tested for yourself - too bad more of us don't do that, then we run into trouble and semi-blame the person who gave us the info. I do my best to let people know what I have done, what I've been told, and what I've read elsewhere.

 

IT may not make one bit of difference that the epoxy doesn't penetrate and bond with the blank - for me, I'm not comfy so I don't do it. THere are guys who have used CP on Tuna rods, and have used them for yars without a problem - I say "Good for them, keep using CP". It's just not for me.

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