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jettyjockey18

Mixed my first batch of LS Supreme...

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coated my underwraps last night with my first batch of LS Supreme...stuff dried solid...thats good... at least the mix came out ok...

 

i used ht metallic "A" thread for the underwraps...i really tried to follow al's advice about putting a "light" first coat on...mine's probably medium light...icon15.gif

 

i don't have any significant bubbles but there are some assorted nubs/very, very tiny bumps on some of the wraps...are these avoidableconfused.gif can i simply cut them or sand them before the next coat of epoxyconfused.gif

 

lastly, the ends of the wraps where i pulled the thread through to tie off the wrap is fairly visible... does this appearance diminish with additional epoxyconfused.gif...just wondering...

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In my experience the nubs and bumps and epoxied ends of thread sticking up are unavoidable and part of the process.

 

You can either cut them off or shave them down with a razor or exacto blade or use very fine grit sandpaper (@600 grit).

 

Keep in mind that you will also be adding one or two more coats of finish which will also even out your first coat and the "very very small bumps" will tend to disappear under the additional coats.

 

Mike W.

 

[This message has been edited by MNW (edited 03-05-2003).]

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JJ18

 

Some tips that others have passed on to me:

 

Don't sweat the nubs, carefully slice or sand them off before or after your second coat of finish. I usually slice as sanding is most effective after 36-48 hours and I'm always in a hurry icon15.gif

 

For the tag end that you pull under... capture it with the loop, just secure under the first wrap or two, and trim to about 1/4"-3/16" now take a needle and unravel the tag, pull it through and it virtually disappears.

 

Those old fashioned double edge razor blades are much sharper than the single edge variety. You can also snap them in half (now you have two wink.gif ) and they become very flexible, making slicing nubs all the much the easier smile.gif

 

gad

 

 

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Gad.. thanks for that tip on unwrapping the tag end of the HT and then pulling it through. Will be giving that a try this weekend.. This lil rod building hobby started out as a way to help ease the pains of winter, but is turning out to become quite an addiction....

 

JJ... what reel did you end up getting for your new toy????????

 

 

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This lil rod building hobby started out as a way to help ease the pains of winter, but is turning out to become quite an addiction....

 

 

Tell me about it wink.gif

 

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JJ... what reel did you end up getting for your new toy????????

 

 

i haven't yet...i'm still leaning toward the abu 7200 (just looks cool) but i haven't ruled out the 7000cl...

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Im gonna jump a lil off topic here, but what color is the LS Supreme hardener supposed to be? The one I have here is dark yellow in color. Is that normal or is my epoxy bad?

 

Thanks,

 

John

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The LS Supreme R resin is clear in the bottle;the H hardener is a light amber color.It looks kinda dark right next to the R resin.It is probably ok,maybe just try a small test batch before you send it back.

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Looks like a dark urine sample? Mine too. From what I gather, this is normal and OK. I don't care, I use it. If it concerns you, do a search on Rodbuilding.net - Ralph O'1uinn, the guy who created/formulates ALL U40 product has answerred this questionin teh past.

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It does look like an amber/dark urine color. So I guess its good news that thats normal. Anyhow, I placed a new order for LS Supreme yesterday. Now ill have double the expoxy I need. I guess ill just have to buy a few more blanks to finish it all up wink.gif

 

Thanks guys.

 

John R.

 

[This message has been edited by Smilin' Bill (edited 03-07-2003).]

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There was a problem some time back with the hardner in LS supreme- it seems the drums that it was shipped in allowed for the product to come into contact with metal which caused oxidation when exposed to oxgen( a simplicifaction) they were exchanging the finish if the customer desired at that time although it was claimed it would not effect the final result.

John

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Ralph's answer re the color problem long post

 

Author: Ralph O'Quinn (---.pstbbs.com)

Date: 09-11-02 02:56

 

Hello to all

I spent all day today trying to get to the bottom of this hardener darkening thing and am not very sure I got anywhere but here is what I found.

 

First I checked all the on the shelf inventory at the plant, about 200 bottles or thereabouts. They are all a light tan color which is the color of the hardener as it comes from the drum. So everything is normal to start with. But when I look at some of the year old or older kits of the old LS 2000 that has been returned for updating, I see some pretty dark hardener in some of the bottles and not very dark in others. There doesn't seem to be any continuity or sameness. I called the hardener manufacturer and couldn't get the guy I usually deal with: talked to a lady engineer and she was adamant that these types of amines are going to darken with age and that exposure to light has nothing to do with it, its exposure to air/oxygen that does the dirty work while in the bottle. I don't buy this because I have several in house -- in the never opened bottle that are quite dark.

 

I then took one of the very darkest LS 2000, one of the sorta dark, and one of the just filled LS Supreme. I took them into the shop and mixed a batch of each. No question the dark hardener showed up in the mixing cup as a dark mixture, the sorta dark hardener showed up as kinda unclear, and the newly pumped materiel of course was crystal clear. I had prepared several sticks with white NCP thread on white blanks so I proceded to apply the mixed batches to the thread. The dark hardener mixture applied to thread right next to the crystal clear looks about the same. The sorta dark mix which is noticeably darker than the new stuff in the mixing cup, is ( to these tired old eyes) exactly the same in appearance. When you exam very closely and hold it in different light angles, the dark mixture finally becomes different --darker--when examined on white NCP thread right next to the clear mixture.

 

This is not the final story of this little melodrama, but indications thus far are-----

 

When looking at the hardener in a bottle, you are looking at something about an inch maybe two inches thick. When looking at the same materiel on a rod thread, you are look at the same thing about 5/10,000 (five ten thousands of an inch) thick. This is a lot of difference. If you use the same materiels on anything except white NCP threads, chances are you cannot possibly tell them apart. The darkening of the Amine does nothing to its properties. Once the amine has crosslinked with the epoxide, it is totally UV reisistant and will not darken any further. I can't seem to find to find any of the problems that Ray Alston is plagued with. I want to see that particular kit and any others that think they have a particular problem. Ray if you will send your kit to Trondak attn: Ralph, I will be most appreciative. Walter will send you a replacement by return UPS as soon as we get where to send it to. This goes for anyone that feels dark hardener is unusable.

John

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