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Super Googan

Factory rod help

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Hi guy's..Loooking for a factory rod for a specific situation. I fish a tidal river with two bridge's about 150 or so feet apart. I fish from the smaller bridge about 15' off the water, on the out going tide the second bridge cast's a shadow on the water and the trick seem's to be letting a plug just sit in the current at the shadow line and wait for the fish to NAIL it.

The current is VERY strong.The fish run 20" to 30"

most of the time but some over 40" Problem is if I use a rod strong enough to controll the fish in the HEAVY current and keep them from all the pileings I lose them on the hook set...the rod is not soft enough and the hooks rip out. I have tried my 1083 ( works good ) but 2 problems too long ( power lines over head ) and not enough backbone to controll the fish in the heavy current and keep them away from the bridge.

I need a SPINNING rod from 7'to 8'6" max that

is moderate/soft in the tip/mid section so I don'rip the hook's out when the fish hit but has the muscle/backbone to controll the bigger fish in the heavy current.

Rods I have tried 7 ugly stick..hooks fish but to soft....and makes me feel poor lol

8' tica 1/2-2oz not bad but a touch to stiff in the tip and still not enough backbone.

arra 1083 hooks fish very well but not enough backbone and too long ( power lines )

I have tried less drag on the reel to help with pulling hooks on the hook set but I need to control the fish fast around the bridge's and yes I sharpen my hooks. I guess I should stop rambling

and see what you think.

 

Thank's for your help and sorry about the long post!

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Are you using mono or braid? Also, have you tried switching hooks on the plugs. Maybe a better quality treble one size larger, and/or a siwash on the rear. When I used to fish bridges we mostly used jigs or bucktails so we would get a better hookset than letting a plug lay in the current.

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I did switch to mono looking for some give.

Most of my plugs have had the hooks replaced and up sized with sharp vmc and I do keep them sharp.

Just picture a bomber swiming in that heavy current right at the shadow line and getting nailed by a striper the load on the rod is instant and hard. I have noticed in the large mouth bass world they are switching to figerglass

moderate/soft rods for the same reason when fishing crank baits too many missed fish pulled hooks with fast action graphite rods.Lami even makes a glass crank bait rod for skeet reese ( pro bass fisherman)

I do use sluggos and finnese fish on a jig head at the same place but the bombers and othere plugs in the 5" to 7" range seem to be the best bet.

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Googan, you hit the nail on the head. Go fiberglass or a composite of glass and graphite. Maybe a Lami Tri-flex? Possibly a light Calstar? Maybe even a St. Croix glass rod? I am assuming you want production? Much more options in a custom including shortening a longer balnk to achieve what you want. Good luck.

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I think what I need is a rod with the action of the arra 1083 in the tip/mid section but with the last third of the rod much stronger to muscle the fish after the hook set. The rod must be under 9'

any idea's???

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I could stab at it by looking at catalog specs, but this application seems too specific to do that. My suggestion would be to go through the catalogs of some of the manufacturers I suggested and pick out some of the rods with the length and line class you want. Then make some calls and see who has a few in stock to go pull on. I think you'll find most composites will be softer toward the tip as they are glass and very stiff toward the butt where it is mainly graphite. Sounds like that's what you are looking for?

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Sounds like you need Calstar 800xl. It's composite glass/grafite from tip to bottom. The tip is size 6, fast action, but at least 2' of the top is very "springy" so it would absorb that initial hit. A lot of my buddies use this rod for everything include albacores up to 25lbs. It's a very versatile blank. Calstar do make this a factory rod but only casting (as far as I know). I do have some Castar rods (all homemade) and their blank quality is very good.

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Hungz came up with a possible soltion with the Calstar but rightly put in the caveat that it is a casting rod which I take to mean designed for conventional reels. Now providing the reel seat does not have a trigger on it there is no real reason why you could not use a rod with smaller guides for your application assuming you were using a spinning reel.

 

I have been using very succesfully for 6 years now an 11 foot rod with guides sized for a conventional but fish a VS200 and the rod casts just as well if not better than if it was rung with large spinning sized guides. So don't have hang ups in this area.

 

Mike O.

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