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Sandcrab

All Star 1265/2 Trigger Seat Recommendations

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I recently purchased the All Star blank for my first rod building project. Looking at some catalogs for trigger reel seats, I came across a Fuji Deluxe "Soft non-slip" graphite reel seat (Model TCSSD). It is 17mm, has an inside dia of .674", and is 5" in length. Would this work on this blank or is the seat just too long? Has anyone used this reel seat?

 

Thanks

 

Sandcrab

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Ron, I've never used that particular seat (you know I don't much like triggers) but I'll try to help a little. The 5" length, first off, is pretty standard. After making sure what length threaded section you need to maintain to be able to mount your largest reel foot, you can simply cut it off nice and square to shorten up the seat. It's easy to do and I do it often. For the diameter, just measure your blank at the point the reel seat will come to rest and make sure the 17mm i.d. will slide down to that point. You can always go bigger; bushings and epoxy take care of the final fit. On a conventional rod with a down-locking seat you'll want a reasonably smooth transition from the rear grip's diameter to the fixed hood of the reel seat. It's just common sense stuff. If you're planning a big chunky butt grip you don't want a big offset down to a very small seat and conversely, if you're doing a thin profile butt treatment like cork tape, you don't want a seat so large that the tape can't transition smoothly into it. Think your way all the way thru the project first.

 

[ 02-03-2004, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: Bill Klein ]

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Bill,

 

Thanks for your advice. I was not sure if a 4" reel seat was the norm for a 10'6" blank.

 

My only concern at this time was how the reel seat fits in the scheme of building a rod with cork tape on the rear and foregrips. I guess the cork tape meets the reel seat threads flush - The cork tape would be cut straight across the blank after wrapping and then I slide the reel seat on to meet it - correct? Same with the foregrip? Some of the larger conventional rods have small foam grips in this area (above and below the reel seat).

 

Thanks again,

 

Ron

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I agree with saltheart about it being small. I would also advise that if you intend to use a Newell reel you might want to check it first. sometimes the Hood has a small ID and the foot from Newell reels is a bit to thick to fit in. Big Dave

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Ron, there must be half a mile of posts in here on working with and finishing off cork tape. It's really worth a search and a good read. In a nutshell, you can finish the joint between the cork tape and the reel seat with...

 

...ready made (or home made) small sections of EVA such as many factory rods use - covers up a multitude of evils but alway looks like just exactly that to me.

 

...heat shrink tubing - utilitarian but nice, clean and business-like lookin' and a breeze to replace if ever necessary.

 

...thread work and finish - the classic old way to go about it. Takes some patience and a fair bit of craftsmanship to do well, but worth learning. And it's either this or heat shrink tubing for the upper end of a cork taped foregrip. Can't use those ugly little EVA rings there very well.

 

Actually there's one other way. Plenty of workin' man's rods out there with cork tape ends bound down with nothin' but turns of black electrical tape. Ain't very pretty but it makes re-cork taping the rod a breeze when the time comes for that. Plus it gives you a nice salty "I been at this longer than you can even imagine" air about yourself wink.gifbiggrin.gif

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Thanks guys for all your help. Guess I have to buy another book on rod building. Tom Kirmans book is good but I have tooo many questions.

 

Gonna do a search for cork tape info and look into larger reel seats...

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