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PASurfer

9ft 6in 2-pc Blank

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I won the following blank at SOL's recent Food Fling:

 

GRAPHCAST 3 2PC 9'6 8-10kg (16-20lb)

 

100% Graphite blank, plum or royal blue color.

Line Weight 8-10kg,(16-20lb) Cast Weight 2-4oz, Tip Diameter 3.1mm,(1/8 Inch)

Butt Diameter 20.7mm,(3/4 inch) Blank Weight 194g (6 1/4oz)

 

By ceiling poking, it seems to be a fast/very fast action blank.

 

It was a raffle donation to the Fling, sent in by one of SOL's members down in Austrailia (Stax). Truly a generous donation. My problem is I have no idea how to set it up.

 

Someone wanna give me a clue, work with me...?

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You don't want that, just put the blank in a tube and send it to me. wink.gif I'm sure some of the guys here will be able to hook you up. icon14.gif

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I'm serious... tongue.gif I'd love to get this stick built, and into the rotation, but don't have the heart to F-it up all by myself. wink.gif This ain't a practice blank, if you get my meaning. This is a fairly high-end blank, that (from reading on the net) the Aussies seem to hold in high esteem, and it's apparently not all that available even in Australia.

 

I want to make it a spinner. I'd be willing to build it seatless (cork tape only) and use shrink tubing instead of fancy thread wraps... anything to simplify to process.. I just need some directions: # of guides and style ?... do I only worry about the spine on the top half, or both pieces?... do I need flexcoat if using shrink tubing?... that kinda help.

 

[ 03-09-2005, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: PASurfer ]

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PA, it's not built by snyderglas is it? I have an aussie blank by them that is pretty fat in the butt with a very light tip that's 9'6 and rated 2-4.. it's VERY light weight and heart.gif

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No, to my understanding, the blank's made by Pacific Composites in Brisbane, AU.

 

Anyway, since I had the time, I searched past threads and ordered some BHVLG and BLVLG guides for 30# braid... 30H, 25M, 20, 16, and 12. Plus two 12 tips... a Sic PST 12-11 and a Hardaloy BPLT 12-7... still not sure that I got the right ones, since the tip is so thin (something like 1/8").

 

Any thoughts?

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PASurfer, glad to see who finally got the rod.

I can give you a couple of tips as to what I did with the rods I have here.

I have 2 of these rods, one is the one piece version, the other the two piece version. I have set both up to use with an ABU 6500 or 7000. I do use them both also with an Ahab 12 and it is no problem either. The rod has a total of 9 eyes and a tip.

I have used Fuji Lightweight Guides on both rods and find then to be just grand, as they also have no weight to them.

Anyway, there are the measurements from my rod with a couple of photos.

All lengths are inches except sizes of the eyes.

 

Rod length.....................114

Butt to base of reel seat......20.5

Butt to end of grip............31

Real Seat "Fuji DPS 18"

 

The next measurements are all from the tip down.

The eye measurements are in millimeters in ( )

Tip to centre of First eye........3.5...(8)

Tip to centre of Second eye.....7......(8)

Tip to centre of Third eye.......11.5..(10)

Tip to centre of Fourth eye......16.5..(10)

Tip to centre of Fifth eye.........22.5..(12)

Tip to centre of Sixth eye........30.....(12)

Tip to centre of Seventh eye.....38.5..(16)

Tip to centre of Eighth eye......48.....(19)

Tip to centre of Ninth eye........60.....(25)

 

Web1.jpg

 

web2.jpg

 

web3.jpg

 

web4.jpg

 

If you don't understand or have any questions please ask.

 

Hope this help a little anyway.

 

Stax

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Thanks for the response, Stax... your's looks sweet. icon14.gif

 

I want to try to put this blank together as a spinner (multiplier), rather than conventional, so I'm going to use fewer guides (the five I listed, plus a #12 tip... if I can figure out what the tip's "tube" size is for this blank). The website I ordered the guides from doesn't seem to carry many Fuji tips with tube sizes smaller than "7", and the SiC tip in #12 has an "11" tube... which seems way too big for a 3.1 mm tip. Can you tell that I don't have any idea about rod components? biggrin.gif

 

Anyway, I thought since I've never wrapped a blank before, and don't have any of the helpful equipment, that I'd go as easy on myself as possible... cork tape grip, no reel seat (at least until I've found a balance point between reel and blank)... that sorta simple.

 

I'd like to put a Daiwa reel on it (probably a Black Gold 30 for testing guide layout and reel location)... likely a 4500 series reel to fish, with braid as opposed to mono line.

 

I'm still open to any and all suggestions. wink.gif

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I never realised how hard it was to take a picture of a long rod.

 

Could you explain something to me now.

Spinner (multiplier)= Ahab 12, Penn 915?

Conventional = ABU 7000, ?

 

confused.gif I'm confused. Here in Oz, an ABU 7000 is a Multiplier, and an Ahab 12 would be a Conventional spinning reel. Understand now why I'm confused. confused.gif

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PA,

 

Id be more than happy to give you a hand... Ill post some general stuff here and feel free to PM me and ask for my phone number if you get stuck or need more help...

 

supplies...

 

-8 ft of cork tape(thin)

-fuji BSVLG guides (40,30,20,16,12, #12 BPLT tip)..

-rather than shrink tubing, wrap with thread... if you wanna do black on black, use size "E" thread.. its very easy to work with.. if you want colors, use "D" thread (cause "E" thread is hard to find in other colors). you can do an underwrap, but not necessary.. no color preserver is necessary...

-flex coat epoxy (you can buy a 2 0z kit with syringes to measure the epoxy before mixing.

-three disposable brushes

-3 plastic mixing cups

-Masking tape

 

all that should cost you around $50-$60..

 

now youre ready...

-measure how far you want your cork tape to go up the blank...peel the backing off the tape and wrap it going up from the butt to the desired area... wrap about an inch past where you want to go.. tape it off to hold it in place. make a rotation with masking tape over the cork tape to mark where you are gonna cut the tape.. take a single edge razor and cut the cork tape using the masking tape as a guide. peel off the remainder of the cork tape.. you should now have a nice straight cut around the blank.. I use a drop of crazy glue to hold the cork tape in place to the blank.

-then wrap 6 inchs of thread from the end cork tape, this is your butt wrap..

-tape your reel on where you want it on the blank.. start at the tip with the #12 guide and place it between 5-6 inchs from the tip...

-then, take your #40 guide and place it far enough away from the reel face on the blank so that the angle of line coming off the top of the spool isnt too pronounced.. this is where your casting distance comes from.. too close and the line coming off the spool is "choked" too far and your rod looks silly...LOL... after you find where the 40 goes.. start back at the top again with the 16 and work your way back to the 40 with the remaining guides... tape the guides on with masking tape..only one side, I usually tape the top side.. the distance between guides going from tip to butt should increase as you go... when you get all the guides taped on... look to see if it looks right.. .you can tell if things arent in proportion.

- after the guides are in place, run the line thru the guides and bend the rod in a stress test to make sure the line flows thru the guides to the tip properly, if not adjust your guides again...

-once you have it set, you can start to wrap your thread.. only wrap the bottom of the guide with thread and try to line them up as you go. after one side is done on all guides, you can still move the guides to get them perfectly in line..

-wrap the other side. again, you can still wiggle the guides to make small adjustments if necessary

-your ready to epoxy... follow the instructions for mixing that comes with the flex coat.. mix 2 drams at a time. that'll be enough to do all the guides... let it dry for a day or two and apply more epoxy..

also, epoxy the very top of the cork tape and the butt wrap.. apply EXTRA epoxy from the cork tape to the butt wrap, this creates a ramp. after the 1st coat of epoxy is dry, wrap thread from the end of the butt wrap, up over the ramp onto the end of the cork tape. this makes the thread to cork tape seemless and looks very neat. re-epoxy the butt wrap and all the guides.. two coats on the guides is fine, but three coats over the butt wrap and cork tape is good... go about an inch over the end of the cork tape..

 

youre done.. like I said if you need more info, Id be happy to help... PM me if youget stuck

 

Good luck.

BC

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PA,

Just thought I might mention...

That is a really fast action rod and even as a spinner I'd use 7 guides.

To get the proper spacing for a spinner with 5 guides you might break it if you really lean on it and that rod is made to be leaned on.

One other thing and I dont mean to sound snobby, but...

At least use Fuji Alconite guides or even better would be Fuji Sic. That's a really fine blank and I'd feel bad to see it with low end guides on it.

With the introduction of Alconites the Hardalloy and aluminum oxide are not really worth looking at any more.

The Alconites have the same frames as the Sic and Gold Cermet lines (in the non Ti) and are only a fraction higher in cost. I thank Fuji for making a budget guide with a better frame.

Hope you liked the tunes!

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Thanks for the help, BC and CD...

 

I ordered some guides and stuff (tape, ferrule cement, etc) from Mudhole that should come today or tomorrow. I took a SWAG at how much cork tape, and guessed 10 feet would do. They (Mudhole) don't seem to carry alconite guides, so I ordered hardaloy up to the tip... that's SiC, but I don't know if I understand the sizing nomenclature: they use a combo number, that designates the ring size/something... like 12/7 or 12/11. I'm thinking the second number is in millimeters, but I don't know.

 

What I need is a ring size of "10" or "12" that will properly fit on a 1/8" diameter tip... any help in getting this right, without ordering 10 different sizes, would be appreciated.

 

The rest of your suggestions will be really helpful... I'll let you know how I'm doing.

 

Thanks, again...

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PA, the first number represents the guide ring size and the second the tube I.D. If you want a 12 guide ring and the tip is 1/8 inch, you want a 12/8 top. You can buy a cheap top/ferrule guage for future building. Your best bet will be to buy one additional tip top one size bigger just in case. Perhaps Stax can give you the exact tube size needed. The ring size is in mm while the tube size is in 1/64's of an inch. Hope this helps.

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