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Prefessa

Acid Wrap Sidewinder Stick

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Hey AL:

 

The two rods I want to build this winter will be a 10wt Flyrod on a St Croix SCIV blank and another a new braid specific stick for tog using a sidewinder.

 

Lots of times I have to cast to these fish to get bit. How does an Acid wrapped rod cast? Are casting distances comprimised? I have never seen anyone of the bay sharpies use one of these, though I think it would be the way to go.

 

 

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Joe,

 

You haven't seen a spiral wrap in The Bay because the bay sharpies are still fishing with 70's technology.

 

The spiral wrap is an obsolute must when using a sidewinder.

 

Al

 

 

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Prefessa - Here goes. I have built 4 Acid/spiral rods, all for saltwater fishing. I use a CAlstar 700XL, an L, and a Lami CGBT841M, as well as a Capt. Neil special for FLuking the Shinny Star. I use the Rodmaker magazine article and a 2 hour session I had with Don Morton to come up with the way I build my spiral rods.

 

There are a couple of things I am trying to accomplish when I build the rod. One is to have as straight a line as possible from where the line leaves the reel, to the tip, with no sharp bends in the line. On a cast, the line will shoot through the guides, similar to having the guides on top. Second, I want to have teh line touch the 0 or 180 (top or bottom) of each guide. When fighting a fish all the pressure on each guide will be into the blank - not sideways, which in theory could make the guide fail.

 

First thing I do, find the spine, locate it on the "top" of the rod - the 0 axis. Next you need to line up the rod vertically with the edge of a door frame - anything that is straight that runs up and down. Now fles only the tip of the rod down so that it forms a 90 degree bend. Keep the butt stationary, and make sure it is in line with the straightedge. Look where the rod begins to bend - where is moves fromteh straightedge, and make it at the point when it is 1 inch away from the edge. This is where the rod begins to bend. I do my best to locate teh transition guides prior to this point, and towards the tip I have all the guides in a straight line 180 degrees from the reel.

 

I then place teh 180 guides - all these should be the same size as the tip - for me they have been all size 8 or 10. I glue on teh tip, and static deflect the blank and place guides appropriatly.

 

Now the transitional guides. How many to use? No fixed number, enough to get the job done with teh 2 criteria I set up above. I have use 3 or 4 on all my rods. Remember what I am tryign to accomplish - straight line and line touching top or bottom of each guide. Place the stripper in the standard position, and just experiment with whichever guides accomplish what you need them to - both with spacing, and with sizes/styles. Make sure when the rod is fully flexed that the line does not rub on the blank. Then test cast it to further refine the guide placement. All done.

 

Here is what I have done with my rods. Size 20 SVLG stripper, 12 NLG, (2) size 10 NLG, and 5 size 8 NLG guides out to the tip. Using the size 16 made a sharp bend in the line when going from top to bottom, so I omitted it. I have omitted the size 16 on 3 of my rods for this reason. Play around with it and see what suits you and makes you comfy. If you test cast and properly static deflect, you cannot go wrong.

 

What I put here is how I do it - I find every builder does something a little different. DO what you think will work best. I also build on faster tapered blanks so I have the luxury of making the transition over a long area. On a parabolic blank, I have been told to make the transition over a shorter area.

 

Hope this helps, Billy

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