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Getting a handle on it?

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For the handle assembly (reel seat, grips), what type of epoxy or glue do you use?


In the past, I've used epoxy paste or U-40 rod bond since they don't run while curing. For handles (cork grips), I've been using 2-ton epoxy.


Would you mind giving a short description of what materials and epoxies you use and your procedure for assembling a handle?


Also, in the photo album from the last rod building show, I noticed the caption that said you were handling a rod that used Robert's wrap. I'm still confounded by both the advantages and guide placement of Rob's wrap. Perhaps it's something I'll have to see and handle to get a decent understanding of what's going on. Any insights would be appreciated though.


Thanks, Mark

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I use Kardol epoxy glue which is similar to U40 Rod Bond. It is a commercial epoxy glue used in boat building and repairs.


My procedures for handle assembly are pretty standard out of the book on rod building. For installing synthetic grips I try to get the ID of the grip as close to the OD of the blank within 2 lengths of the grip to it's final position. I then cover the blank area thoroughly with epoxy well up on the blank. I then slide on the grip and work the grip up, down and rotate to spread the epoxy completely inside the grip. Then using a push board, I slide the grip into it's final position. I then clean up the blank and grip with isoproyl alcohol and paper towels.


I then install the reelseat using either drywall tape or masking taper for bushings. I completely fill in the spaces with epoxy glue and slide the reelseat in place.


I then install the foregrip in the same way as the butt grip. After the foregrip has been installed I thoroughly clean the entire handle assembly with particular attention to the reelseat threads. I find a soft toothbrush soaked in alcohol will clean the reelseat threads very well.


Once the handle assembly has been cleaned I then do a final alignment of the reelseat with the spine of the blank. Then just let the glue cure overnight.


Concerning the Robert's Wrap, you really need to see the demo in person. The stability tests are incredible. Suffice it to say that I am now building two bass chunking rods for this season with a Robert's Wrap. As far as guide positioning, here are some guidelines.


The guide twist should be opposite to the side you turn your reel from. So if you have a conventional reel with a right hand crank then the guide rotation should be to the left. For a left handed reel the rotation should be to the right.


Guide position:


Do you normal guide spacing.


Add two guides between the stripper and the second guide at 60 and 120 degrees around the blank. Take the guide size of the second standard guide and use that guide size for the 60 degree guide. Use the next guide size for the 120 degree guide and then start going to the smaller sizes.


Here is an example:


0 degree axis size 20

60 degree axix size 16

120 degree axis size 12

180 degree axis size 12

180 degree axis size 10

180 degree axis size 10

180 degree axis size 10










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Thanks for the response. I like the idea of using a toothbrush to clean up the reel seat threads. I've been using folded paper towel and I'm sure the brush will be much easier.


Couple of follow-up questions:


- Is the Kardol epoxy glue a thick paste type epoxy like U40 rod bond? Where can you buy it?

- Do you ever use graphite bushings instead of masking tape? I've used both and can't tell the difference when I'm fishing.


Perhaps I'll have a chance to check out the Robert's wrap in Allentown. It's a bit hard for a straight up (conventional) or down (spin) guy like me to picture.


Regards, Mark


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