Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Sergio

Fuji plate type reel seats

Rate this topic

7 posts in this topic

Hi Al... What is your opinion on the plate type seats FS7SB and LS7BB?

I am thinking in using them with a Daiwa EMX5500A spinning reel and a 12'Gambit24 blank from Conoflex.

Thanks beforehand for your expert response.

Sergio

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Al... something else. Do you know of a photo on the web where I could take a look at a finshed rod with this type of plates?

Thanks again.

Sergio

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Sergio,

 

The FS7SB is the less expensive ($10) of the two. The LS7BB is $12. Both are black stainless steel. Fuji also makes a titanium plate seat for about $60.

 

I don't know of any sites were you can see it mounted. I just did one for a friend of Alberto's.

 

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergio,

 

I know that Al doesn't use the plates often, so I'll add a little more info. The FS7 has white rubber inserts under hood. the LS7 is all black and has a rubber pad on the bottom of the seat. I've built a bunch of rods with them and like them. Some are attached to the rod permenantly with epoxied thread, most just electrical taped over cork ttape grips.

The pros - Light weight

Inexpensive

Easily replaced, if using tape alone

Easily adusted if using tape alone

Continuous cork on the top of the rod

Faster and simpler to build

The Cons - Need to retape once a year

Take care in tightening down the seat and then the reel.

The seat can move under great strain if you're fighting a large fish with sideways pressure

(Most of the cons only apply to the taped-only method of mounting.)

 

Overall a thumbs up.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my experience, the hoods loosen up every 5-10 casts even if you're not fighting a fish, with spinning reels. Try doing a couple of wraps over the hoods and reel foot with tape after you seat the reel in the plate.

 

If you prefer a plain cork tape butt without a seat, and fish conventional, the plate type seats are a big blank-saver. Using the reel clamp they give you with most larger conventionals, it's very easy to clamp down too hard and crack a thin-walled blank. Use the plate seat in conjunction with the clamp, lightly tightening the clamp will stop the reel from loosening in the hoods.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am glad that I asked here Al.

 

The seat can move under great strain if you're fighting a large fish with sideways pressure

 

In my experience, the hoods loosen up every 5-10 casts even if you're not fighting a fish, with spinning reels. Try doing a couple of wraps over the hoods and reel foot with tape after you seat the reel in the plate

 

This two comments by DJ and Oznavad sends shivers down my spine!

 

I think that I will better stick with a DPSD type seat.

 

The plate type seat was an option I was considering for a custom made prototype spinning rod that Conoflex, UK is building for me and I sure don't need a plate with less than the most solid design.

 

By the way this rod which is in this stage named the "Gambit24 XTRA Roosterfish Special Edition" or "Gambit24 XRS" has:

 

1. Reinforced butt. The Gambit24 XTRA is basically a standard Gambit butt, with a thin layer of graphite added from the butt cap, up to the reel seat area.

 

2. The lower 10" of the butt is detachable leaving a 15" butt for fighting big roosters with a light standup "fighting belt".

 

3. Fuji Low Rider guides. I doubt it, but in case you have not reviewed these guides, hit the "next" button at the bottom of this link to see the whole presentation http://www.fujitackle.com/lc02.html with the whole specs (at least the images, because most is in Japanese) smile.gif The most relevant points is the size of the guides (20 ring the closest one even for the largest reel spools) and the position of the closest guide to the spool (at least 47 inches).

 

4. "Slezerkast" type finger support. An ergonomic extension that lets you reduce line slap (tighter coils) and increase your holding strength letting you hold the line with your index finger in a more efficient way and closer to the spool.

 

5. A much longer and wider foregrip like the ones used for stand up fishing.

 

6. Because this rod will never see anthing else but 30 to 50 lb GSP braided line and 2.75 to 4 oz high density far flying plastic lures, the rod will be tuned with the Low Rider guides to perform at its highest with the Daiwa EMX5500A reel and mentioned braided line. I already sent an EMX5500A to Conoflex so that they can not only find the actual "intersection point" of that reel on that rod, but actually play with the guide position to extract the best performance from the reel/line/lure combination.

 

I was also thinking in a SS plate like the ones mentioned, because I had the graphite seats on my conventional Gambit24 crack (like a chipped tooth). The hold of the reel of these cracked seats is as good as when they were not chipped, but I was trying to solve this small cosmetic problem with the SS plates.

 

Any further comment will be highly regarded.

 

Thanks again to all three for your expert comments.

 

Sergio

 

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by Sergio (edited 07-06-2001).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.