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Sandcrab

Putting cork tape on butt and fore grips without using shrink wrap

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I would like to put cork tape on both the butt grip and fore grip of my new conventional blank. "OZ" showed some nice photos of his finished reel seat using this technique awhile back. One photo showed how he put cork tape on both the foregrip and butt grip WITHOUT the use of shrink wrap on the foregrip. Is this done by putting the foregrip on first as the threads on my conventional seat are on top of the real seat (facing the guides vice the butt cap)? - Then followed by the reel seat then butt grip?

 

Foregrip - then reel seat - then jam cork under the reel seat bottom lip?

 

Appreciate all help,

 

Sandcrab

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There's no absolute answer to that one Ron since it's all a factor of several variables; your blank's outside diameter at the reel seat location, the reel seat's inside diameter, and the actual thickness of whatever cork tape you've chosen to use. Every rod you build is gonna be a little different. Getting the tape to tuck under at both ends of the reel seat is obviously ideal but rarely works out as something easily done. One end tucked, and one dealt with as a clean butt joint against the end of the seat is what you'll often have to settle for. It's easier to work "to" the thicker, fixed hood end of the seat so it's usually better to at least get the tuck at the thin, threaded end if possible.

 

When all's said and done, you'll still need to deal with a nice cork tape to blank transition at the top of the foregrip, something not all that hard, but still one will get you talkin' to yourself the first coupla times you go thru the process smile.gif

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I put the butt cork tape on first. Often this fits right under the reel seat neatly. If not , I use a razor blade to put a slight taper so it does go under. Then you apply the epoxy and force the reel seat down over that edge when you put it on to glue. then I put on the foregrip. Sometimes theres room under the front lip of the reel seat and sometimes not. If there is no room , I go for a very flush fit. You can usually get it just about perfrect so all you need to do is put some black tape on till the reel seat hardens on then take off the balck electrical tape and wrap directly over the cork tape. Sometimes you don't get the cut perfect and where the cork meets the reel seat on the foregrip is not perfect. When that happens 9about 1 in 10 times , I put electrical tape on just about 1/8 inch up from the reel seat cork tape joint and apply some epoxy to fill any gap between the corktape and reel seat. Smooth it out for a complete fill and level finish. When it hardens , I take off the black tape and overwrap the cork tape with the thread. It always ends up perfect.

 

At the front of the foregrip , I use a razor to roughly taper the corktape down to the blank. Sometimes that comes out just right but sometimes I follow the blade with a rasp to get a nice round , smooth taper. i then wrap up the taper with thread.

 

On all these wraps over the corktape , I apply the epoxy finish (i've used thenm all but prfer Classic Coat with LS Supreme my second choice) heavy and heat it with a flame. I want plenty of epoxy and I want the epoxy to get very liquid from the ehat and penetrate all the thread and into the cork below. This almost always causes outgassing of the corktape and bubbles form (its not so hot that the bubbles are from the epoxy decomposing!!! its from air in the cork coming out). I then use a brush and take off almost all the epoxy that didn't soak in. I brush off what I can then I use a paper towel to wipe off the brush and continue to take off epoxy till its almost all gone or dry looking. I let all the epoxy finish that penetrated the thread harden. After that , you just add more coats of epoxy like you would on any threadwrap.

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BTW , I don't like shrink wrap cause I think sometimes when you apply finish over the thread over the shrink wrap you sometimes get some movemeny of the thraed cause the shrink wrap is so smooth and eventually little spaces between the thraed. It doesn't always do that but i've seen it enough that I avoid the shrink wrap.

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To ramp down the tape I use a wooden paint paddle with a strip of self adhesive sand paper(or glue it on). leave a 1/16 gap on the edges, a wrap of masking tape will protect the blank

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Thanks for all the help. smile.gif Can't wait to get finally started on the rod this weekend. All I have to do now is figure where the reel seat will go and I can roll.

 

Is there a hard-and-fast rule (arm length, etc.) on reel seat placement or is it just up to the builder?

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