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Bent Barrel

Flex Coat on Wraps Evenly

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I wrapped my first rod and I think it turned out nicely to be the first rod. I had an ancient blank (I assume Calstar or maybe Lamiglas)8 footer with a wooden handle. I wrapped it and put a sheepshead sticker on it. The black rice thread with silver ends looks good. I like simple looking things so it makes my job easier I guess. The problem I have is keeping the flex coat high build even on the ends of the wraps. I tried my hardest but the edges of the FC are a bit wavy. I tried going over it again but it just gets further out and wavy a little, I cant get them perfect. Is there a trick? I learned a lot andthe next one will be much better I believe.

 

Thanks

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This trick works best with any high build finish. First wrap the guides, then use masking tape to form a stopper for the epoxy, make sure you leave a little piece doubled over for easy stripping later. Brush epoxy on the guide feet makeing sure you fill the void left buy the reel foot, then brush over the remainder of the wrap until you hit the masking tape. Repeat till all guides are epoxyed, next level all the finish and lastly remove the masking tape. Now you have a nice round band of epoxy.

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Sweet. I tried the thumbnail method (I do collision repair and sealers and epoxies are used pretty regularly) but I couldnt quite get it to look right. We have blue fineline tape for taping up blackouts and close things, should I try that or use regular masking tape? Do you let it tack or you take it off right after youve evened your flex coat (or whatever you use).

 

I wrapped this rod late last night, it will be okay to put another coat over the last without any prep? The package says yes, but is it okay? Im used to prepping everything if a finish is going over any other finish.

 

Thanks!

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I apply the finish with a thin knitting needle used like a bodkin. I've also used a thin artists spatula. They both allow much better control of the edge of the finish than a brush. The spatula is better for larger rods.

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I set up the rod to spin slowly with an old BBQ spit motor and 2 V-blocks. As the rod revolves I hold the brush flat against the edge of the wrap. I overlap the finish about 1/16" past the edge of the wrap onto the blank. I hold my hand steady as the rod revolves. The edges come out quite straight.

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You can go over the finish without preping, but I would feel each wrap carefully, looking for thread ends sticking up, air bubbles, uneven finish, etc. Nows the time to file, cut, and or sand to ensure the next coat looks good. If you are happy with the finish the way it is you don't need another coat. I always put on at least two coats, and sometimes three.

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I cut any threads (funny how they show up easily after youve coated them). It turned out a lot better than the first time. Two coats makes it look better. The tape made the edges nice and sharp. I used blue plastic-like automotive fineline tape abnd it was great. its easy to manipulate and it peels off evenly leavinga clean edge and no residue.

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Sometimes (especially on a older blank) I'll coat the wraps and the whole blank with Flex Coat. There are no ridges around the wraps and everything is smooth from top to bottom. I wouldn't do this on a blank where weight is a concern, but on a glass blank or one that I've had to sand, it turns out real nice.

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