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DanKing

Spiral Wrapped Tog Rod

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I've ordered up the pieces and parts to wrap Al Goldberg's Tog Rod (from the articles section of this site) on a Seeker CLB708 blank. Looks like the perfect rod for yanking Tog out of the rock piles of Narragansett Bay.

 

Any suggestions for where to at least start laying this rod out for a spiral wrap? Al's suggested guides are: 20, 16, 12, 12, 12, 10, 10, 10. Perhaps a #12 or #10 on the end could go, depending on how it all looks under load; but I'm wondering if the 20, 16, 12 combination will work in a spiral configuration, or if some other combination like 20, 16, 16 might be a better way to start the layout?

 

Thanks and Happy Holidays to everyone!

 

Dan

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From what very, very, little I know, you need a stripper guide, and then another 1 to 3 guides for transition depending on the action of the rod, how weird you want it to look, etc. Then the rest of the guides go under the rod. It doesn't look like you have enough guides.

 

Stripper guide placement has to do with the action of the rod and height of the guide. You don't want the line to cut the grip. You don't want to choke the line, but you have to get it rolling in the right direction. Then you do your transition. That is the only part that seems different for every builder. On a fast action rod you can space them out for aesthetics, on a parabolic rod, they have to be tight. Ideally, the transition happens on the part of the rod that doesn't bend much. Then the rest of the guides will sort themselves out.

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Hi Dan,

 

Triet is right on the mark on his comments on the spiral wrap. The CLB708 has a very fast action. Therefore, here are general guidelines for guide spacing and rotation for this blank.

 

The spine of the blank will be positioned on the top of the rod or zero degree axis. You should do the rotation from zero to 180 degrees in four guides.

 

The #20 stripper guide should be 20 inches from the leading edge of the reelseat and at 330 degrees. That is 30 degrees left of the spine.

 

The #16 guide should be at 280 degrees and approximately 9-inches from the # 20 guide.

 

The first #12 guide is positioned at 230 degrees and 8.25 inches from the #16 guide.

 

The next #12 guide is positions at 180 degrees and is 7.75 inches from the previous #12 guide.

 

The remaining #10 guides are then spaced out on the 180 degree axis. The graduated spacing will be determined by the action of the blank under load. You will need to do a static deflection test and adjust the guide spacing as needed.

 

When doing a spiral wrap you are guided by two principles:

 

- The angle of the line when passing from guide to guide in the rotation should not result in sharp angles in the line. The less sharp the angle will result in less friction on the line passing through the guides under load.

 

- The spacing of the transition guides should not allow the line to touch the blank when under load. If you need to add additional guides then do so.

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Thanks all! That gives me a starting point on this project. I will definately be static testing this rig well before actually wrapping it up for good. Now all I need to do is convince my friend with the boat that we need to get out much more often; just to make sure the new rod is V E R Y durable... wink.gif

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