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Mr T

Epoxy bubbles AAAAAARRRRGGHH!!!!

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Alright, this last rod looked great up until the coat of epoxy went on to the wraps for the reel seat. I used a skeleton (or is it plate?) type seat, (fuji), wrapped it on nice and clean over the cork. No color preserver, cause on a previous rod I did not like the way it darkened the thread.

 

Applied the epoxy, checked the wraps, couple of tiny bubbles, got em out by heating with an alcohol lamp. All good to go, smooth, turning nicely on the motor, head out for 9 holes of golf. I come back to find all the other wraps are fine, but the wraps on the seat look like someone dropped an alka seltzer in the epoxy. The only good news is there is a nice texture on the coating. mad.gifredface.gificon25.gif

 

What the hell happened? The guys at the shop told me they epoxy over cork all the time, no problems.

 

What did I do wrong?

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Thread without color sealant holds quite a bit of air, this air trys to escape as finish trys to go in between the thread as well as minor penetration. Color sealant seals the thread preventing this to happen.

 

If you had been around longer, you might have been able to flame the finish when the bubbles appeared, maybe not. A lot depends on the type of finish you used as well.

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I've had the same thing happen on my last rod. I was able to get them out by re-flaming them when I saw them (about half an hour after I applied the coating). I check every half hour or so after I apply epoxy to make sure they don't reappear. Sometimes I don't get any bubbles, and other times I flame them three times. I have noticed that more thin coats are easier to work with than one thick coat.

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I have found that any time you apply finish on thread that is directly over cork tape you have to do things different than say for a guide which is over the blank , not the tape. the tape outgasses a lot. In fact , using heat at all makes it worse.

 

best method is as Al Goldberg describes. Put on the first coat and let it soak in. Then , with a rag to keep wiping the brush dry , remove all the epoxy you can. That will leave behind only what has soaked in. When it cures , this seals it all and the second coat goes on no problem.

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I have found that any time you apply finish on thread that is directly over cork tape you have to do things different than say for a guide which is over the blank , not the tape. the tape outgasses a lot. In fact , using heat at all makes it worse.

 

best method is as Al Goldberg describes. Put on the first coat and let it soak in. Then , with a rag to keep wiping the brush dry , remove all the epoxy you can. That will leave behind only what has soaked in. When it cures , this seals it all and the second coat goes on no problem.

 

I did heat it pretty well before I left for golf; stupid game. like the idea of the two coats, gonna try that next time around.

 

 

thanks guys

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Yes, will happen due to the porous cork tape. What I do is wrap the seat on with black thread, apply a thin coat of finish, let it dry, then do your final color wraps over it. It will be all sealed and you should not have anymore bubbles in final finish coat.

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1 idea that totally forgot to mention. dont wrap thread for the 1st epoxy.. just epoxy the area below where you intend to wrap by the reel seat...now you are wrapping thread over epoxy, not tape and no bubble issue. Another thing this helps with is filling any small gaps between cork tape and reel seat that you think may be unsightly. cover the area with epoxy, let the epoxy fill the little gap, let it dry, no more gap and it will be covered with thread. when you try to cover the gap without epoxy, your thread rolls off and falls into the gap...

 

just something to try.

BC

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I will recommend the two coats as well. and I will suggest using one of those little foam brushes to apply the first coat of epoxy. It kind of works like a brush and paper towel in one. It will remove all but the soaked in epoxy.

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