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Recoil Rob

Back into rod building, help with some guides & spacing?

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I've been lurking for a while now and would appreciate some opinions.

 

Some years back I was at the closing of Midland Tackle and bought three Lamiglas surfblanks that I now wish to build into rods.

 

1. A Ron Arra 1321 XRA. This will be a big water stick for 2-3oz plugs. I actually emailed Ron and he said he uses only 4 guides, 50-40-30-20.

Oznavad, I saw from a previous post you have a rod built on the same blank and you love it, care to share your guides and spacing? Also I was going to use cork tape with a plate type seat, good idea? Using a Penn 704 or 706 reel.

 

2. A 1201L built as a spinning rod for lighter plugging. I have an old article from the Fisherman about this blank using 75-50, etc but I want to get away from those big guides. I've seen some here recommend starting with a 40 instead of a 50. Be using a 704. Plate type or Fuji graphite seat?

 

3. A 1201M Conventional for bait. 7 or 8 guides with a 12 tip? Fuji 22 trigger seat. Reel's a Garcia 7000.

 

I've been out of this a while so what's the difference between Hardloy, Aluminum Oxide and the TIC series? What do I really need and what's throwing away money?

 

I still have some Fuji guides left from years ago in 40-30-20 sizes but I can't seem to find any that match for the other sizes. Anyone recognize these guides?

 

fujiguide.jpg

 

I realize I've asked a lot so if you only have info for one of the blanks, that's great, any help will be appreciated.

 

Regards,

Rob Di Stasio

South Salem, NY

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Start with a 50mm on the spinners if you'll be using a 706, a 40mm is too much choke for that diameter and I've seen the line overrun itself around the outside of the guide frame when using braid.

For the Arra BSVLG 50-40-30-25-20 with a SIC or BPLT 20 tip.

If you go 704 on the 1201L you can step down to a 40mm stripper, in which case I'd go BHVLG40HH-BSVLG 30-25-20 again with a 20 tip. You can substitute a 16 tip in either case if you like, I prefer a 20.

For the conventional BNLG or if you prefer Alconites BMNAG 25-20-16-and 4 or probably 5 12's out to a 12 tip. I find the Alconite frames a little weak for heavy work and prefer BNLG's.

Your best bang for the buck in surf guides is still Hardaloys,the SIC's are very slick and might gain a few yards casting distance, but they're brittle and more prone to breakage, and the cost is astronomical.

The guide in the picture is a braced frame Hardaloy with a shock ring,old and a little on the heavy side, chuck it and start with fresh sets of Hardaloys for the spinners.

Welcome to the forum, tight wraps.

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I think that's a BSHG series guide. Heavy and very rigid with the four legs. Don't think they are aound anymore. Good for vintage rod repair maybe.

 

If that's the style you want, use BSVLG hardloy guides with three legs. Actually lets the rod bend a bit in the area of the guide foot. Other possibilities too as mentioned above.

 

Forget the Aluminum Oxide guides. Hardloy is much lees likely to groove and is still very reasonably priced.

 

Steve

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just go with the graphite reel seat. Once it's on ,,it's on! Will not have to worry about it coming loose.

 

That's what concerns me, I have found that there is no formula to determine reel seat location. A few times in the past I have put the plate seats on and after a few months of use ended up tweeking the location. No way to do that with a graphite seat that I can think of. But It's sinking in that the plate types are less than adequate, I'll go with the grapites and have to do a bit of test casting.

 

BTW, do you use seats on conventionals or clamp the reel right over the cork tape?

 

Rob

 

Rob

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Rob, if your hesitant on a fixed seat go without it for awhile, after you find your sweetspot you can uncork the rod from the butt end and install a seat, might need one size bigger ID than if done at the time of the build, no big deal.

Unless a plate seat is permanently thread mounted it's no stronger than just taping on the reel, which is still my personal preference anyway.

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Rob, if your hesitant on a fixed seat go without it for awhile, after you find your sweetspot you can uncork the rod from the butt end and install a seat, might need one size bigger ID than if done at the time of the build, no big deal.

Unless a plate seat is permanently thread mounted it's no stronger than just taping on the reel, which is still my personal preference anyway.

 

Good idea, thanks.

 

What I used to do was put the plate seat on with tape until I was sure where I wanted it and then thread wrap it. I liked it better than tape because it was easier to remove the reel, but you're right, not much stronger.

 

 

Thanks, Rob

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