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big country

How do you guys finish around butt wraps, reels seats etc???

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so, I have my ways, but Im starting to think they are a pain in the A$$ and maybe there is an easier cleaner way to finish off a butt wrap or wrap thread over cork tape by the reel seat etc...

 

what I do is in this specific order.

-find/mark spline

-underwrap/wrap guides

-wrap butt wrap.

-glue reel seat.

-apply cork tape

 

now, here is the area that I hate. how do you guys make the area between the butt wrap and cork tape look neat and clean and easy to do? also the area between the reel seat and cork tapes.

 

I either use shrink tubing over the ends then expoxy or I wrap black thread over and over until it covers up all the tag ends of the cork tape etc, then epoxy and re-apply thread for neatness if necessary.

there has to be an easier way.

 

what do you guys do??? something quick and easy. I dont have the resources to sand, etc..

 

BC

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I put the butt section of the cork tape on then the seat. depending on the sizes , the seat fits a little over the cork tape or I taper the cork tape to fit. that means a perfect joint at the back of the seat. For the front , the cork tape will almost fit a little under the front lip if you are careful do to the taper of the rod. anyway , its means no real tag end to the cork tape. then i just wrap over the cork tape to finish. For the first finish coat I apply liberally , heat to get very liquid and soak in , then I get it all off again with a dry brush. When this very thin layer cures it seals everything so the second layer goes on without bubbles. If i don't take the first coat off after application , a thick coat tends to bubble over the cork tape. some guys use the shrink wrap to prevent this initial bubbling. I find with UD 40 LS Supreme I must do the thin first coat but with Classic coat the bubbling is much less so sometimes I can apply a full thickness first coat.

 

try doing the seat over the corktape like I described and also tucking in the ends under the front of the seat. it makes for a perfect joint and is also easier to do.

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bc, as far as your sequence of work goes, I take a pretty different path, and never start any threadwork until the complete "handle" area - butt grip, reel seat, and foregrip - is 100% done. That sorta separates the bull work from the finesse work and gets all of the potentially gritty / dusty operations outta the way before the threadwork commences. Works best for me anyways smile.gif

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Bill,

 

great point, I understand that logic, however, due to my set up, I still wrap my guides manually on v-blocks. (I have power wrapper for underwraps), I need to keep the butt section free of cork tape because it REALLY becomes a PAin in the butt to turn the rod. the friction between the felt on my V-block and the cork tape, makes turning the rod while wrapping a big pain, especially on bigger rods. thats the main reason why I do things in the order that I do.

 

the black against the felt is smooth as silk. it is faster and I get batter wraps..

 

I need to go to the rollerblade wheels on the v-blcok technic so I can wrap the cork tape without issue..

 

BC

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BC,

 

Guess you don't do much test casting do yawink.gif

 

That's the main reason I complete the handle first. The second reason is the same as Mr Kleins. I do a bunch of handles, sterilize the place, and then wrap and finish

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BC - that steep transition area where the butt cap meets the cork tape, and the cork tape drops to teh rod - the best way I found to make a smooth transition is to use 5 minute epoxy and builda ramp. I have NOT done this for a butt wrap, only on teh butt cap to cork tape, so you will ahv to ask someone else their secrets up there.

 

The 5-minute epoxy will set up quite fast, but you still have to turn the rod (by hand). Glob it on right next to teh butt cap, and thin it out moving away, turning hte blank at al times so no sags or drips or teh epoxy doesn't run up onto teh butt cap.

 

I'd post a picture, but I did this on Erik's rod. Maybe he'l see this and post a pic for me.

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Test cast, schmest cast... I know where my guides need to be.. I build on the same 5-6 blanks that I know VERY well, I dont need to. now a new blank, like I did this year, absolutely. I havent any complaints yet as to how my rods cast, in fact guys tell em the cast Incredibly well, especially that rainshadow 1087.

 

and, I know all blanks are different even in the same models.. just the fact that between fishing and building there at no time for a testing...

 

BTW,

 

good idea billy, 5 minute epoxy might be the way to go. you havent noticed any problem chemically between the 5 minute expoxy and regular epoxy???

 

BC

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b.c.; went you finish off the guides use have left over epoxy. i use this to build up the cork to the transition area to the reel seat.you allway

give a few coat to the guides.

 

went you put the cork tape on .I put on double face tape .i buy it from the golf store they use it to put on there grip's. it work real good.i all way tape to the right.and will not unrave.

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A way to make that double sided tape work even easier is spray it liberally with WD-40 or CRC. Then wrap the cork, it will slide very nicely for you when you put it on and getting the cork to line up is much, much easier But when the solvent evaporates you will have a firm bond.

 

People who first hear of this often doubt it, but ask anyone who has ever griped or regriped golf clubs how ya get that tight grip over the double sided tape wink.gif . And they (Golf clubs) don't have an area at both ends to secure the grip, it's all done with the tape.

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As for the way I do it I first install the Reel Seat then the rear grip followed by the front grip. After this process is over and has dried for 24 hours I then align my guides install with surgical tubing to hold them in place the I do a Static deflection test to ensure that the line is not touching the blank in any area if it is then I adjust the guides and add or remove as needed. After this process is completed I then wrap the guides and put the first coat of finish on then allow proper drying time. It is at this time that I start my butt wrap..In order to maintain a smooth transition from the fore grip to the wrap I apply 5 minute appoxy as a "Ramp or steping area" so that when I do my initial wrap it is a smooth transition from the grip to the blank. This is a pretty simple method of making the transition and allows for a nice smooth transition that looks very professional and very attractive. Hope this helps and good wraps

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Last time out I used a winding check, then built up the epoxy. I just backed the winding check off above the butt wrap. I put the first coat over the threads and then slid it in place after the 1st coat hardened. You just need to remember to slide the winding check on before you start wrapping your guides redface.gif

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Just a thought there Big Country...

If you place a fre turns of masking tape where the cork tape contacts the "V" blocks she'll roll smooth as can be.

As for butt construction? For my taste I do the rear grip and trim to length. If cork tape, lock with a thin band of tape and then install the seat. I then do an epoxy check right over the cork tape and up to the reelseat. I color the epoxy with black pigment. The epoxy for the butt cap locks the tape at the rear of the grip and I then remove the tape back there. The fore grip gets epoxy checks or thread wrapd adjacent to the seat and the fore end gets an epoxy check which I shape and then wrap over. Really looks sharp and saves alot of headaches!

Happy Rolling

CD

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