Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
sharp1

Wet Cell Proto Arrives-iNSTALLATION gUIDELINES!

6 posts in this topic

The Radar Sonics Wet Cell transducer arrived today. It looks very factory for a proto. It is an eleven degree (11 Deg.) beam device and looks pretty dog gone simple to install.

 

Porter, I have been told was in communication with Max Chavez, and should be getting a visit from the Big Brown Truck soon. I get 1 day service within the LA basin, so that is why I got this one so fast.

 

Here is a 12 step installation routine. I'll send these to Max as well. Please let me know if these make sense.

 

1) Pick a spot in the hull and cut the base to fit pretty close to that shape. Leave a minimum of 1/4" base height for an oil window. The 1/4" oil depth is required for proper signal coupling through the hull.

2) Place course sand paper sheet on the inside of the hull in the Xducer location, and hone the rough cut base to get a nested fit. Then hand sand base with fine sandpaper to smooth it out.

3) Alcohol wipe the base and hull thrice.Get it clean!

4) Edge bond base using 3M 5200 marine adhesive. Clean all excess adhesive from within the base cavity and hull surface inside of the base. Build-up a fillet around the outside of base and smooth with finger. Clean fingersmile.gif Now make a small witness dallop(several small beads of adhesive best) on a piece of cardboard and place it next to base. Relax.

5)Let the bonded assembly cure for several days. Test the witness dallop and when it is very solid all the way through, you are ready to continue to the filling stage of installation.

6) Level the boat so the Xducer location is plumb level, by placing a bubble level accross the base.Stabilize kayak in this position.

7) Pile a bunch of rags/paper towels around the base.

8) Fill the base with mineral oil to near the top.Fill it to near spill=over if you can.

9) Disconnect Xducer cable connector leaving a short 12inch lead from the puck. Then, remove the small vent hole screw from the top of Xducer/puck unit.

10) Screw Xducer into lower bonded base until the o-ring seal is snug. Now the oil will be venting from the top through the small vent hole. Let it bleed until it stops flowing completely. Replace vent screw& snug it down. Wipe up excess oil from inside hull. Clean with alcohol and then soap and water if you really made a mess.

11) Reconnect cable fitting and run the cable to where ever you have mounted the Fish Finder. Install a through-deck fitting, pull the cables through and make necessary connections for Xducer and power.

12) Go fishing

 

This ought to do it Chris. Get ready!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sharp, may want to wet the puck with oil before immersing so the dry puck doesn't capture any small bubble. Even the smallies can degrade signal. Otherwise sounds like you're there. Can't wait to see the photo's. Scott

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sharp1,

 

 

I've been playing around with some PVC, 2" to be exact and am looking at different options for mounting a well. I have several "prototypes" cut in the shed, I'll take some pics later today if I get time and put them up.

 

But in the mean time, a few questions for ya,

 

 

1.\tWhy mineral oil instead of just plain water? Less chance of bubbles and or freezing?

 

2.\tI have noticed that if I take a 5" piece of PVC place it on the bottom of my boat (inside the hull) and fill it with water, even though I did not cut the bottom of the PVC on the angle of that portion of the hull, the transducer still "found" it's own level. In other words the transducer stills parallel to the water. Have you ever noticed this?

 

3.\tIs it necessary to place the transducer and or its vessel on the centerline (side to side) of the hull? The flat spot the inside of my hull offers is only a few inches off center & if I cut a vessel @ about 7degrees it causes the vessel (the 2" PVC) to stand plumb off the bottom of the boat. But then again see # 2 smile.gif.

 

Hope what I wrote makes sense, it does too me wink.gif. I'll try to get the photos up shortly.

 

 

------------------

Ed J

edj@stripersonline.com

 

 

[This message has been edited by Ed J (edited 03-06-2002).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ScottO and Ed J,

 

Yeah I'm glad Porter will take photos and also Ed J; as I don't have a digicam, or even a decent SLR. I normally just use the waterproof disposables on the water and they are pretty bad at, and sort of expensive for indoor cloose-ups usage.

 

Good suggestion ScottO on pre-wetting the face of the transducer! This will certainly help.

 

EdJ, re "Why Mineral Oil?", here was my guess the other day:

1)mineral oil is thick enough to discourage the formation of bubbles

2)Won't evaporate easily

3)Non toxic

4)readily available

5)consistant density medium

6)inexpensive

7)non- degrading to a sonar signal.

8)won't freeze (EdJ's)

9)Will not promote/support bacterial growth

10)non-corrosive

 

But you (we) should address questions like this to Max himself. Anyone want to e-mail max and report back? If so, see the seperate thread for Max's contact info.

 

Ed J, re;Q#2, uh I don't have a clear picture of how your wet cell is constructed. If the tranny finds its own level, sounds like it is just floating in a larger diameter cell? Splainitmorebetta OK? You only need 1/4" of fluid. 1" is plenty. No air at all!!

 

Re: Q#3,

You can place your transducer anywhere within the hull that is 100% wetted in all circumstances;such as when going through waves,wakes, when paddling fast,as well as when sitting still. Essentially, to get a consistantly good reading, you'll need the puck's face to always be below the water line. That's all you have to do. The "signal cone" is large enough at depth that it you won't be able to correlate the images on your screen to a tranny location on your kayak. So put it where there is a good friendly location that you can reach and won't get bumped by stowed gear. I try to put them under my seat for point of reference.

Sharp1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

S1,

 

Here are the photos.

well2inchcleanout.jpg

This is justa 2" PVC clean out. My transducer will fit in the female end of a 2" clean out, but not inside plain 2" PVC. This well is cut to accommodate the angle of the hull. But, on a test run (putty used instead of silicone) and filled 3/4 of the way with water, the transducers stayed level. The down side of this well is putting on a lid; it's not tall enough to allow me to do so.

 

Here's another photo of it.

wellcloseupfromabove.jpg

 

This next photo is another well I'm going to test drive wink.gif. It's 3" PVC and it is cut to accommodate the angle of the hull.

well3inch.jpg

My thinkin is that I was going to use water, this way if I did not wana use a lid, I would not have too. But your reasons for using the oil has swead me to fashioning a well with a lid. I guess the funk that could grow in the water was the final straw, never though of that one icon15.gif.

 

Oh ya, i mounted some serious guns to my hull also....... lg_smile.gifkidonNJ.jpg

 

 

------------------

Ed J

edj@stripersonline.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.