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Ken L

FF batteries revisited.

20 posts in this topic

The tech at Bottomline told me that the Tournament 1200 draws 1/2 amp. As a result my original setup just to get it up and working was with two lantern batteries. Well I have got to have 30 hrs on this setup and it's still going strong. There is no way two lantern batteries have a 15 amp/hr capacity so now I'm not sure what the best solution is. Cleary the 7 amp/hr gel cel is overkill. If it's rechargeable maybe a 3 amp/hr would do the job and save a few pounds.

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Save a few pounds? A 12V 7amp battery from Cabelas(comes with a charger)is only 3.5-4lbs at the most.

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by FLYRODDER (edited 06-30-2002).]

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Actually it does weigh 5 pounds. For the sake of convenience and better corrosion protection it's always been my idea to mount the battery permenantly in the yak. My Explorer weighs 40# and I really don't need any more than that when lifting it up on the roof of my truck. Not a big deal but a consideration. As a bow to my education I also object to overdesigning things to make up for not knowing how to do it correctly. A personal quirk.

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I found some 2.4 AH bats which run the heck out of a FF for hours and hours. Weighs less than a pound for sure; size of 2 cigg packs- wafer thin. Recharges fasticon14.gif Cost less than three bucks. Tons of them at this store by me..well, several there for sure.

 

 

 

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Hey Ken, are you dead set on permanent mount? Seems alot of commitmment to adding a battery. Have you looked at hatch placement of a battery, ie attaching the battery to the bottom of a hatch and buying a spare hatch for they times you don't want the battery or for traveling. Contact Santiago II for his arrangement. It's very slick in that he bought an extra viking hatch cover, they're really cheap, and mounted the FF battery to the bottom, wired through it and all. Now when he wants he swaps hatches in and out. There's alot of flex in kayak hulls. I'd be interested in seeing how you permanently mount it. Just a thought. Scott

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The hatch mount makes a lot of sense if the battery is less than a pound. If the battery is that light mounting is no big deal. I really don't want 5 pounds attached to the bottom of the hatch cover. I'm probably overcautious but I want the center of gravity as low as I can get it.

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Well, if Ken is right about the current draw, I will hook up my multitester and measure the exact draw when I get my 1250.

 

If we surmise that the draw is significantly less than the 1/2 amp the techies state, the possibilities for batteries increase and we can all consider the high capacity NiCads or NiMH. These will have capacities up to 3 amps and the ability to be charged at currents as high as 5 amps with an automatic charger/peak detector. These batteries and chargers are used by the radio control car/boat/airplane folks. These batteries vary in price from about $15 for the 2.4 aHr NiCad packs to the NiMH backs that will cost in the upper 30's to low 40's. The peak detector chargers cost as little as mid 30's or so. The beauty of this is that when you you are packing up your car, all you need to do is just hook it up, crank up the current, and push a button and it's done in about 15-20 minutes for a full charge. Faster if your pack has some juice left. Mounting the batteries could be done anywhere it's convenient with velcro, double sided sticky tape or duct tape.

 

[This message has been edited by mrsinbad (edited 07-02-2002).]

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Good thinking Mr. SB. The only question is how to meet the voltage requirement. The specs call for between 10v and 15v. I'm sure there's an answer and if not it makes sense to figure one out. The charger I have for my radio control model batteries will recharge a standard 7.2v NiCad in about 5 minutes. It will also fully discharge it which is so important with these batteries. It also plugs into a cigarette lighter. The question is where to get a 12v package. How about cordless tools?

Actually two of these could be made to work but I wouldn't gain that much over the gel cel or the lantern batteries.

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I called Computrol again and was a little more insistent on getting the right answer. A young lady who appeared to have only a vague understanding of what I was talking about put me on hold to check it. "1/4 amp." she said. "Continuous." I would bet a lot she was reading this so while it still sounds a little high it is probably a good design assumption. Of course that's half what they originally told me.

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Hi Ken,

 

In order to meet the voltage requirements, all you need is eight to twelve NiCd or NiMH cells each with a nominal voltage of 1.2v. To get 12v, all you need is to get 10 cells in any configuration like 6 cell pack and a 4 cell pack or 2 5 cell packs, etc. For the radio control cars that typically run on six cells (7.2v), two packs will give you twelve cells yielding 14.4v which is within the fish finders voltage range. All you need to do is wire them in a series. If you checked the few surplus places I had included in my prior posts, you'll find these batteries are sold in packs as well as individually. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can save quite a few dollars.

 

I went to the Tower Hobbies website (guess what the URL is) and their cheap house brand NiCad packs went for $10.99 each and 3 for about $29. While you're there, look for the MRC Super Brain Peak Chargers. The older one sells for $39.99 while the fancier 959 model sells for $46.99.

 

With a current drain of 1/4 amp for the FF, these 1.5 amp packs should last you about 6 hours. Of course, there are many more brands and capacities of batteries out there as well as chargers that will fill the bill. Don't forget to drain your NiCad packs before recharging them. NiMH don't need to be drain before recharging because they do not develop a "memory."

 

 

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