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sharp1

Yak Sling for Hand Carry!

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sling.jpg

 

 

I thought this image, found on a Fla. BBS, was kinda cool. I had not seen a sling like this before. Easy to make, detachable, and will make carrying the yak to the launch easier. Maybe simpler than a dolly-since it is easyier to store below deck. So just a heads-up to ya'all..icon14.gif

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Thanks Sharp,

That is a great and cheap idea for carrying the yak for short portage. Being vertically challenged myself biggrin.gif this will be a welcome addition.

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pmjasper has something just like that. i had to copy him the day after i saw it wink.gif between a pool noodle, some nylon rope and two clips, it cost less than $4.

 

knee straps work for that too, btw.

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L4D,

Good point. You mean that you'll put a sling around the hull and a pool noodle on the sling to cushion the load/weight on tour shoulder? If so, then the sling may slip and slide on the poly hull when you are walking and zagging to the launch area. To stop that action, you can cement that waffle patterned, rubber, shelving liner,to the sling and that will grab the poly. It comes in small rolls for cheap.I use that liner material on lots of kayak gear to stop the sliding. It works wonders under a nylon high backed seat to stop the forward crawl!! Works well on ice chest bottoms and bait buckets. It bonds down well enough with marine spray adhesive (3M#77)and hot glue gun adhesives.

 

Also, it would be worth the trouble and expense to replace the pair of plastic eyes

(eye loops, eyelets,snap loops, padeyes, grabbits,-whatever you want to call them) with a set of slightly larger stainless steel padeyes(correct term) in those two locations. Marine hardwares have these in the correct sizes. I have changed them out before and backed them up with plates for insurance. For blind installations, Wellnuts would work great for that sling anchoring application as well. Otherwise, the plastic padeyes with rivets may work loose eventually with repeated use holding a sling on a heavily rigged yak. Then you get leaks and bigger holes and more water and a broken padeye.

S1

 

[This message has been edited by sharp1 (edited 05-23-2002).]

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it would seem to me that if the factory carrying handles are attached to those same padeyes they ought to be strong enough. The factory installs them to perform essentially the same function. My only hesitation would be that there might be some torque in addition to the weight because of the carrying position.

Strengthening can't hurt but may or may not be needed.

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The eyes and rivets are probably stronger than the plastic hull its attached to. But, if you want to go that way (assuming the yak is evenly balanced), you could use the padded shoulder straps you fet with your laptoop carrying cases. thumbuprt.gif

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That appears to be a Tarpon, WS uses brass eyes, so far so good. The eyes are mounted on the top side of the hull. I don't know how good they will hold with all the weight applied sideways. I don't think they are backed all that well and might tear out an edge. And I would use webbing instead of rope for a big loop, more surface if you put some non-skid stuff on. If you put your own anchor points in put them far enough fore and aft so you don't hit them paddling, knuckle bashers. And then you could take off those suitcase handles which can be little knuckle bashers in their own right.

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If you were to ask me how this would fail, I would bet on the hull being ripped out from one side. I would doubt the padeyes would break under anything close to normal treatment. Backing the hull attacks the point of greatest stress. An SS fender washer should be more than enough.

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Ok I made one for Goo Goo Green. It works fine. The pull on the padeyes is mostly along their axis which is the strongest direction. No problem. Worked great. Total cost less than $4.00!

Experiment with the length. Too long and the yak bangs against your legs. Carry it top side toward you.

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