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DASBOOT

More FF intrigue!

14 posts in this topic

Before I start, MrSinbad and I had great time exploring the waters in Port Washington today.

Got himself a nice Cobra "Tourer".

Another convert!!

Ok!

I exchanged my original tranny and monitor.

Installed both on Friday.

Tranny in GE clear silicone.

Went out Saturday and the unit performed flawlessly.

Went out today, Sunday, NO DEPTH READINGS!!

Removed tranny, hung it over the side, got depth readings.

Put tranny back in the hull under my seat, just set in down, no adhesive, worked fine.

Anybody have any idea what is going on????

Could there be a change in the properties of the silicone fron one day to the next?

I'm gonna try the slow cure epoxy Garmin recommended unless anybody has a better idea.

Thanks......DASBOOT

ENJOY LIFE!!!

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Ya, Das I got an idea, use a transducer well instead of gluing it down.

well2inchcleanout.jpg

 

Just find a PVC clean out or other piece of pipe for that matter, silicone it to your hull. Let it dry and add liquid. Works like a charm.

 

http://www.stripersonline.com/ubb547...ML/000865.html

 

The link above has more info.

 

The only thing I'd change to what I did is, make sure you place your well in a place where the hull does not get flexed in transport. When I first did mine I put in 2 wells as a test drive. The bigger one failed, and I believe it was due to the way the hull flexed when I strapped it in the back of my P/U. The other well has held water for more than 3 ? weeks now.

 

 

------------------

Ed J

edj@stripersonline.com

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Ed,

Thanks for the info.

However, I still don't get why you would want an open well of oil sitting in your hull, able to spill at any moment.

I would much rather adhere the puck to the hull w/o any liquids involved.

My readings were pretty accurate just setting the puck on the hull floor.

Why all the elaborate PVC/mineral oil setups when the company themselves(Garmin)recommends only a slow cure epoxy?

The idea is just to get the thing to stay in one place and send out its signal, right?

I'm not trying to minimize all the suggestions.

I just don't understand why this is so tricky to get right!

Thanks>>>>>>>>>DASBOOT

 

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DAS,

 

I know EXACTLY what is going on-You are in a hurry. In one of my past novals here on SOL on FF installations, I stated this:

 

"Once you have bonded the tranny puck down using the GE Silicone, DO NOT turn on the unit until the silicone is fully cured. This happens in about 48 hours; depending on temp and humidity and bond area. Better to just let it sit for a week and then there will be no problem".

 

What you did was use the unit prior to the silicone curing and the sonar beam created heat and the energy made bubbles in the bond line, and any air there will cause you a bad reading.

 

So, you just have to take your time and re-do that nice installation you did back when. Now maybe you appreciate my Garmin QA policy rant the other day. You got slammed by having a faulty unit.

 

As to wet cells, the proper wetcells have a sealed canister and are by far give you the best signal.

 

I don't recommend the epoxy; and it could be a quick fix. If you bubble that up, it may be very hard to get it off your puck for a third try.

 

So:

1) redo the install like original and wait aat least 4 days..

 

2) build a wetcell

 

3) Get a scupper hole tranny, or suction cup tranny to hold you over during rework..

 

Try the epoxy if you have to go fishing right away...but don't turn on the unit till it has cured solid!!

 

Sorry this happened to you.

 

Sharp1 out-off the Mexico for a week

 

 

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Sharpy,

You are probably right!

The first unit was definitely defective.

After putting in the new one, I let it sit overnight with a weight on it.

The silicone FELT like it was hard enough.

I guess I'll just have to leave it alone for 48hrs or better like you said.

I didn't realize the puck itself could create heat/air bubbles.

One good thing about the silicone is that it peels off so easily.

 

3 ques. regarding the wet well design:

1) Do you drill a hole in the cap, put the tranny wire thru, silicone the opening and plug the tranny into the lead wire as usual?

2) You simply drop in the puck and close the lid?

3)Should one fill up w/mineral oil be enough or does mineral oil evaporate?

Thanks!!

Sharpy,

Have an OUTSTANDING time in Mexico!!!!!!

 

 

[This message has been edited by DASBOOT (edited 04-01-2002).]

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Sharpy & EdJ,

Does the wet cell design really give you that much better a reading?

If so, is that due to the fact that the signal does not have to travel thru another substance ie: silicone?

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Sharpy & EdJ,

Does the wet cell design really give you that much better a reading?

 

I can't see any difference on the screen between the trans being in the wet cell or hanging it over the side in the water

 

If so, is that due to the fact that the signal does not have to travel thru another substance ie: silicone?

 

confused.gif

I guess so..... Do a search on wet cell, I think all the questions you have will be answered. The only thing I have left to do that S1 recommended, was the oil, I need to rig a cap before I use it. But so far I'm happy with plain water & no cap :)

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Thanks Ed.

There's just something about an open vessel of liquid in my hull that I don't care for.

The cap would eliminate that of course.

I think I'll just try the silicone AGAIN and not use the unit for a few days.

I'll keep ya posted!!!

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DAS,

 

The quality of my sonar readings improved dramatically when I switched to a wet cell, and I'd been pretty darn happy w/ my bonded unit except in shallow water when it would occasionally wig out on me. confused.gif Talk to S1's friend Max about all this; he's extremely helpful and wants to make inroads into the kayak fishing market.

 

Some day soon I'll get around to posting my wet cell install w/ pictures, as (repeatedly) promised. wink.gif

 

[This message has been edited by Porter (edited 04-01-2002).]

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I dunno if you stuck your puck yet, but I thought this might be of use to you. I posted this a couple of days ago on one of the west coast boards. I'm sure the wet cell probably works better, but this has been working great for me for going on 4 years plus I'm really cheap smile.gif A very reliable source posted later that he couldn't get hot glue to work, but I'm still not giving up on it yet. I think surface prep or pre-heating the spot on the boat might help.

But the Goop definitely works consistently for me and I am pretty rough on my boat.

 

yakfishing.com post:

 

I think that I'm the original goop using guy (Although that really doesn't make me anymore qualified than anyone else smile.gif )

Choose a spot where the puck is least likely to get bumped by things inside the hull (between the scuppers is a good place), scuff it with 80 grit and then wipe it clean with alcohol (unflavored). Put a quarter sized dollop in the center of the transducer and then squish it down flat (NO bubbles). You'll end up with a thin film holding it to the hull and the stuff on the sides (squishant?) as reinforcement.

I used Goop three (4?) years ago after some uncured 3m 4200 popped off (nothing wrong with the 4200, it just was not cured). Its been stuck ever since and I'm pretty abusive. Next boat I rig, I'm going to try hot glue (essentially the same stuff the boats made of). Worst case scenario, I'll peel it off and use something else.

Now go fish.

 

 

------------------

Wali

 

[This message has been edited by Waljojo (edited 04-06-2002).]

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I'm telling ya, a little dab of grease and stick the puck down on it. Works like a charm and wipes off with one paper towel. As for the wet pvc idea, use water instead of oil. Will work fine. Scott

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I have an older Eagle SupraPro ID model that I want to hook up on my yak. The transducer though is not a puck style, but the type that would hang horizontally on a bracket off the back of a boat transom. Do you think I could bond this type transducer or use the wet cell technique with it? Thanks -

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I've been off the site for a few days and was suprised to see this still in discussion!

Waljojo,

I too fo not wish to spend unnecessary funds on adhering a puck to a hull.

The puck was re-siliconed 6 days ago and has not been touched since.

I did not, however, scrape the hull in any way.

This time around, I put a large dollop of silicone on the puck first rather than laying a bed of silicone on the hull and squishing the puck into that.

Let's see what happens this time around.

I'll let you all know as soon as I'm on the water again.

Thanks all for your input!

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