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JoeB

Thoughts on Yakima racks?

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Hi guys-

 

I was looking at two different models for transporting a kayak online recently and would like some input regarding the Mako vs. the Landshark saddles. Does anyone use these? Good/bad?

 

Any suggestions for other options greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

------------------

Joe

Stranded in Albany

GO NAVY

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I like Yakima stuff. It rocks. I use it. Secondly, those saddles and rollers and shoes that look so cool for snugly holding your kayak(s) may just injure them. They seem to apply pressure-just from the weight of the yak, in localized areas and as a result you'll often see deformation of the hulls. I have seen it a lot. You can do less damage and save some bux by investing in the yakama bars and then quality padding and nylon straps (tied sides,fore and aft). If done right, you won't smush the hulls and bow them. The materials poly boats are made from are just barely stable at summertime temps. They can be bent/dented/bowed in a surprisingly short period of time with little pressure. This is called Creep...and they do-even at room temperature out of the sun.

 

I always rig mine atop the vehicles "Hull-up". I strap through the scupper holes on each side and tie-off front and rear; just snug.Now if you have a fiberglass hull, then never mind-get the hully rollersicon14.gif

Just my 2 cents on it.S1

 

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Sharp1,

You said you strap through the scupper holes? I was thinking about doing this but was unsure of the localized pressure on the yak. I was looking at fabricating a bracket of some sort to go down through the scupper holes and a bar across the top of the yak with one screw point to tighten down with. Just wasn't sure if the scupper thing was a problem. My design wouldn't touch around the holes, all pressure would be across the top of the yak. Does this sound possible?

Thanks,

Dick

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problem with the yak rack is that the hully rollers on the round yakima bars will torque,

it makes me crazy, yakima knows about the problem and is coming out with something new....if you use the thule bars which are square with the hully rollers you will be much better off.

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The scupper hole is one area that has extra plastic and is pretty beefy. In fact, the scupper holes in the plastic version of the Cobra Wave Witch are there just for strength and actually are plugged and don't function as scuppers.The scupper hole is a tubular pillar/post that runs between the deck and hull-think of them that way-not as a hole.

 

I tie yaks down through the scuppers just to prevent lateral motion. The aft tie to the bumber/frame keeps it from sliding forward in a panic stop, the the front tie is to keep it from lifting from wind loads. Trust me, when you have it tied off 4 places just snuggly, it aint going nowhere-even if you are speeding down a highway or turnpike. When you pluck the fore and aft lines, they should not go "Twag", but rather "thud, or thwap". Easy does it!

 

One thing that I do that aides in this tie-down system is to cover the Yakima bars with pool noodles. They also sell Yalima bar covers. Slit the noodles and tape the seam. I have also pressed the noodles over the bars before and this works but you have to take the bars off the roof grab-its to do it. The noodles need replacing once a year or so cuz the UV gets to them. Using these thick foam cushions gives you about an inch of smoosh for the deck of the yak to sink into and these foam tubes absorb the shock and wind loads. They also afford you a squeeky grip on the plastic which reduces the occurance of the yak sliding around. At all costs, avoid any direct "point loading" on the plastic. So use your noodle!

 

Your bar idea sounds like it may work, and consider that a contraption is just another "object" to store and keep track of. A set of good nylon straps with locking jam fittings(buckles) will do the deed and be easy and fast to use and store. I don't think the ratcheting type straps are necessary and you could easily over-do it with too much down pressure using them. This ain't a Semi tractor load.

 

Go for it!

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Those Yakima bars + supports are not cheap! The whole get-up, just for the mounting tower supports and two crossbars looks like it will be over $300 (2 "Lowrider" towers + foam padding for the two bars)! Am I looking at the wrong products?

 

Believe me when I say that I have always been one to shell out some extra $$$ to protect an "investment" I have made (kayak, in this case) but is there are more reasonably prices methods of transporting a yak on a small-size Blazer?

 

I'm just trying to keep this within a reasonable budget. If all suggestions point to this system, I will try and find a way to get the set-up.

 

------------------

Joe

Stranded in Albany

GO NAVY

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Joe I would spend the bucks. I have a set and was a car Accident about 4000.00 dollars worth of damage to the vec. the canoe didn't move an inch. The guy I hit even talked about it he couldn't belive that it didn't come threw his back window. So spend the bucks just my .02 Thom T

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Look at the sites on-line that specialize in "roof racks". There is one that discounts deeply. Yakima is beefy and so is the Square brand. I think the round bars flex less. The roof rack can be used for lots of other "reasons", not just the yak.

 

You can just pile foam, or a series of cheap-ole' pool noodles on the roof and tie for and aft. It is the rope going through the windows and across the inside of the car and that whistleing noise that gets old..

 

Buy a used Yakima. Try e-Bay...

 

Google.com

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sharp1-

 

I just finished a search of pasts posts from this forum and found some interesting results that I hadn't thought about.

 

I currently have a non-factory tower system in place on my truck that was originally intended to transport mountain bikes, etc. There are square rods, and assuming I can find a set-up that includes foam padding and straps, I THINK I should be all set.

 

------------------

Joe

Stranded in Albany

GO NAVY

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Joe'

I have the Yakima w/66" bars on top of a Dodge Intrepid for 2 yaks.

They are strong and secure with a good locking devise.

My approach is....spend the $ and forget about it!!

They are worth it!

 

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Sounds like Barrecrafter racks in which case Thule stuff fits I think. Minicell foam blocks are cheap and very workable alternatives, with or without bars.

 

I also improvised something similar with a couple of re-cycled 2x4s which worked fine for a couple of years. Spend the money on a good paddle instead.

 

[This message has been edited by JimW (edited 03-29-2002).]

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DASBOOT-

 

How are you attaching the yak to the bars? Do you simply use foam pads or do you also have one of the Yakima products (Mako or Landshark saddles)?

 

------------------

Joe

Stranded in Albany

GO NAVY

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JoeB,

If you have a 4 ft or more spread on the bars you can use foam, 3.5 ft or less tends to get torqued around a lot in cross winds so saddles are better. If you tie the stems to all 4 corners at the frame or bumper nothing is going to take that sucker off. You should tie the stems off in any case. Use 1 inch web straps with cam buckles over the kayak and around the bars on both bars. Might sound like overkill, sue me.

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JoeB

 

Just today I installed a yakama rack on my new cap. Scary drilling all those holes in a $1300 cap. I used the track system - figured I'd have more adjustment in case I wanted to add bikes or something. I plan on putting foam blocks on the cross bars before setting the yak up there. Pretty sturdy stuff. Was told the round yakama bar is stonger than the rectangular thule bar. Don't know.

 

I'll report back after I've used it a couple of times.

 

There's a well known camping store up on Rt. 17 ( north jersey)that sells the yakama stuff for 20% off.

They have both makes and stock all the acess.

 

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Sharp, You do it like I do only I only use two 15 foot straps. No bow or stern ties (not needed)

Joe b - to mount a yakima bar set on you car should cost no more than $140. If You cant find what you need contact us we keep evreything in stock. Thats why I pay for the add at the top of the page.

Barrell

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