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DASBOOT

FF installation pics

15 posts in this topic

Here are pics of what I used and how it came out.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Maybe this will be of some help to others embarking on the same journey.

#1) Rubber was used as a cushion between bracket & hull. 1/2in. bolts & washers.

y1.jpg

#2) 1" "thru-hull" which was cut down 2/3rds in length so cables would not exit at an extreme angle.

Velcro strips were used to secure transducer cable to inside of hull from rear to batt. box in bow.

y2.jpg

#3) Bracket in place. 1" hole drilled thru hull for monitor cable.

Drill.......circa 1950!

img

#5) Monitor/tranny cables lead into batt. Wire at bottom is the extra footage of tranny cable coiled on top of the batt. box.

y5.jpg

#6) View from topside. Thru-hull makes a clean portal for the cables.

Should this be siliconed shut?

y6.jpg

#7) Tranny in bed of GE Silicone and held in place by heavy pipe till it cures.

I left it alone for a week, but I peeked in earlier and you could let it sit for a few hours and be OK.

The silicone works great & has a lot of flex to absorb shock.

img

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and I hope this hgives others some ideas.

Later..........DASBOOT

 

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Why the xxxx didn't all the pics come thru!!!!cwm23.gif

They're out of sequence also!!

I'm not going thru this again!!

You get the general idea of what I did.

I'll try a couple here.

img

#5yk5.jpg

Something wrong w/my scanner so I can't show the "Thru-hull" unit.

How do I retrieve a photo that is already on the server so I don't have to re-name it and download it a 2nd time?

Hope all this is a help to someone.

I'm bushed!!!icon15.gif

G'night!

 

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DASBOOT,

Looks like you went for it all rightsmile.gif Excellent installation!The trough hole is good, and you can seal it with a few non-permanent things I can think of. I have not done anything to mine, however it is a little smaller in diameter, so you may take on some Aqua. They sell these really cheap wax ear plugs in the pharmacies. Get a handful, get them warm and smushy and smoosh them in that hole and pack it in there. A poole noodle chunk might do OK there as well.

Battery Box-Just wrap it in a 13 gal. garbage can liner and put a big rubber band around it. You want it to breath a little. I assunme you are taking it out to re-charge anyway. No biggie.

 

Definately put some GE silicone seals on the electrical crimped fittings. Your worst enemy is moisture wicking up those wires. Shrink tubing and GE is better yet for the wire terminations.

 

The velcro might stay, might not. I had some that continually came loose, and others that stayed-put. No biggie either way.

 

The screw on connectors to the garmin (power and Tranny) can be left alone, other than cleaning with fresh water. The thing I use is Salt X, or Salt-A-WAy souloution. I bought a 1 gallon concentrate two years ago and still have half. I constitute it, put in a spray bottle and wassh everything down after an outing in the salt. Everythin; rods, reels, kayak, any metallic fittings, the electrical screw-ons and , lures, line, paddles,seat, nets, gaffs: All of it. Then rinse in fresh water and hang to dry. Put the lid on the battery box and you are set.

 

Yeah-looks like you forgot to cut and paste the last "]" on the pics that didn't load. Try an edit and re-add them.

 

Sharp1

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DASBOOT.If you have any problems with water coming through the bulkhead fitting you put on.West marine sells water tight fittings made for the exact purpose of running wires through a wall without leaking.They rely on a hard rubber stopper that is split in two that you drill out the size holes that you need.The stopper is then compressed between two plastic halves one of wich is screwed into the hull w/ss screws.It is water tight and requires no sealant.You can also add or change wires without having to break apart silicone and resealing.

 

Doug M

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Here are the other pics.

#2) Thru-hull & Velcro.yak2a.jpg

#3)Bracket on, cable hole drilled.yak3.jpg

#8) Trany w/line running along wall.

What is the "ledge" inside called?yak8a.jpg

There!!

My mission is complete, I hope!

Thank you all for your support & ideas.

Sharpy, you say it's OK to leave the screw connectors exposed, but what happens in the event of a spill?

Regarding the in-hull connections(batt. to trany, batt. to monitor), should I just wrap these in Saran wrap and silicone the ends of the wrap,use rubber bands or what?

Doug, thanks for that.

I'll check out W.M.

One last idea.

To protect the bracket arms when the monitor is removed, I took a block of mini-cell foam and made 2 deep slots in it.

I insert the arms and slide the foam down to the base.

That oughta give me some protection during transport, storage, etc.

Those arms are pretty vulnerable.

I would hate to have one, or both, snap off.

Hope this helps.

Later.........DASBOOTbiggrin.gif

 

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Several times I had to minimize SOL and go into my photo files to reduce an image.

Let's say photo "Y2".

After reducing, or changing file type, I returned to SOL, went to attachment-browse, clicked on "Y2" and got a message saying "Image Y2 is already on our server. Go back and try again."

Is there a way for us to access a specific image on the server.

I had to go back and change the names on all of my pics a few times in order to download them!

Was I doing something wrong?confused.gif

DASBOOT

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One last thing, I have a 2amp/10amp trickle charger for my bike.

Am I right to assume this can be used for the yak batt?In the 2amp setting of course.

 

and you also asked:

Sharpy, you say it's OK to leave the screw connectors exposed, but what happens in the event of a spill? Regarding the in-hull connections(batt. to trany, batt. to monitor), should I just wrap these in Saran wrap and silicone the ends of the wrap,use rubber bands or what?

 

Do not use a trickle charger-those will ruin your battery by overcharging it. You want a Float charger. Get a Guest brand float charger(about $25.00)at West Marine, or Boater's World. These type of chargers taper off the charge as the battery takes a full charge and that way you won't boil out the electrolight and shorten the life of the battery. Your trickle charger will work better if you monitor the state of charge and then take it off, and that takes a battery meter. Instead, I'd definately go with with the simplicity of the float chargers, as you just put them on charge after the fishing trip & forget it. Then, simply un-clip your battery to go fishing and you are fully chargedt-100% of the time. A no Brainer...

 

RE: those connections above deck to your sonar unit. If they get wet, no problem, as long as you clean and rinse them thoroughly after your outting, or in the next few days. You can go to radio shack and get some aresol electrical contact cleaner and hit them after you have rinsed them out/off and swabbed them with a Q tip. Then just spray with the contact cleaner, or use just alcohol to clean them. They are marine grade fittings and have a heavy plating on them. I have even neglected these at times and had the white fuzz (oxides from corrosion) show up-I just cleaned and sparayed with contact cleaner and they work fine. Do not worry too much about them. Worry about the fishes instead!!!Those are bigger problems for sure.

 

Re: the wire terminations seals: just paint the end of the crimp connectors where they meet the wires with the GE and that way you minimize moisture getting to the bare wires which are exposed in the crimped area. After you put the lid on your battery box, if you feel water is going to get in there (it is inside the hull-below decks, right?) you can put the whole thing in a poly bag and rubber band it. A battery box needs a vent or two. Also, you may want to eventually track down a mini battery box at West Marine; just like one for a Trolling battery, only get the smallest one and it will have a mounting strap and a lid and vents and still be about as big as yours. Don't seal the connectors to the battery itself or anything. Just learn how to clean everything after an outting. That takes some dicipl;ine, but really your only salvation. SW is brutal-on hardware and Humans. We are not fish!(we are DEVO!) Meantime..looks like you are ready to give fishing a shot.

 

Another plan-go with what you have done, and if you are personally satisfied, just go fish the rig and keep your eyes on the critical connections and fix/adjust/clean as required. Preventative maintanence rules.. and gives you an excuse to tinkersmile.gif

 

 

[This message has been edited by sharp1 (edited 02-10-2002).]

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Sharpy,

You are a great support system!biggrin.gif

The batt. is a sealed 12v.AGM type.

Got it from Andy Anderson Enterprises(www.batterystuff.com)

Thanks Flounder!

There is zero maintenance involved( no distilled water to refill).

Is this type batt. not compatible w/the trickle chrgr?

Why IS it OK for my gel cell batt. on my Harley and not this one?

Not trying to put you on the spot.

I'm not too electrically literate, hence my questions.

Thanks!

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Sharpy,

Is this type batt. not compatible w/the trickle chrgr?

Why IS it OK for my gel cell batt. on my Harley and not this one?

Not trying to put you on the spot.

I'm not too electrically literate, hence my questions.

Thanks!

 

Your trickle charger IS compatible, just not optimized for the reasons I already stated DASBOOT. A trickle charge has no brain, it just knows to trickle current into the battery. A float charger is just better, that's all; and it is a smarter charger. When the battery has a full charge, it knows to take a break. Also, if your battery sits and looses a bit of juice, the float chargers brain knows to hit it again till the battery is fully topped off-yet never "overcharged".

 

Now your trickle charger, once it has fully charged the battery, continues charging away, and thusly will start to prematurely age the cells/plates/fluids inside there; unless you determine by a meter, that it is fully charged and then take it off charge manually.hat is a small chore-if you enjoy those. If you want to just use what you have, then you'll be fine-you may just may have to get a new battery sooner-that's all.Hope that explains it. Am I off the spot? I hate that partwink.gif

 

Let's see some pictures of the rest of the boat!

Sharp1

 

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Sharpy,

Gotcha! I'll get one of the other chrgrs for sure.

I'll post full view pics of my boat in the near future.

Thanks again for all youR help & advice.

Later.......DASBOOT smile.gif

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DAS,

 

Sharp is right, the float charger is the best way to go for no worry type of charging. Typically, the batteries you got are used in medium to low drain applications like back-up lighting, signs, etc. In other words, these types of batteries were not meant for high discharge rates like motorized wheelchairs or other high drain sources. Typical charge rates should be 1/10th the rated capacity (C/10) for 12-14 hours (a slight overcharge condition that is balanced by higher initial charge rates at the beginning and lowered charge rates at the end of the cycle (due to increased internal resistance). From your pics, it looks like a 7 Amp Hour battery making the charge rate 700 miliamps or .7 amps. Thus, your 2 amp trickle charger for your bike battery is way too high for your FF battery and will shorten the its useful life. Also, if you let your gel cell run down, don't let it discharge below 8.4 volts or else you may not be able to retrieve it from the jaws of death.

 

As an alternative, you should look out for sealed lead acid cells like the Gates or Cyclon batteries. These are recognizable by their cylindrical shapes (sometimes stuffed into retangular boxes) and these batteries will be able to take a lot of abuse in terms of higher charge and discharge rates as well as tolerance to deep discharging.

 

Did I mention the float charger is the best alternative? smile.gif

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Nice job Dasboot.

I hope it goes that easy for me.

Thanks for all the pics and ideas.

 

Where is the duct tape ?cwm13.gif

joev

 

------------------

Always Wishin I Was Yak Fishin

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Sorry Joev!

No D-tape on this job......yet!

Sharpy,

I ordered a float charger today from the same guy I bought the batt. from.....Andy Anderson Enterprises aka. BatteryStuff.com

$30 and I can use it on the bike too.

Keep the batt. right where it oughta be!biggrin.gif

Flounder,

Thanks for the push in the right direction.

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