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bunnymoney

Abu parts that I don't fully understand

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:wave:

 

 

100010001000

 

 

 

I've been wondering for some time now "exactly" what the two parts in the first pic were designed to do.

 

 

 

Let's start with the black plastic shaft clip.

 

For me, other than giving me grief when they break or get deformed, it serves no useful purpose on my reels.

 

The only positive use I can see is to keep the shaft attached to the reel when taking it apart in the field. I am careful enough to not need this help.

 

This clip doesn't seem to do anything during the brake set-up, cast, or retrieve.

 

I have removed every one of these (I started with the broken ones) from my reels with no apparent short-comings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK- now for the copper "spring washer".

 

I don't see any plus or minus for having this part in a stock reel other than for very light baits.

 

It appears to be useful to make fine adjustments in spool tension.

 

If the washer is inserted into the spool with the bend facing outward it will provide a spring resistance to the bearing shield causing the balls to load against the races until the washer flattens under the pressure from turning the knob. This will slow the reel but would be most effective with light freshwater baits. If you set your reel up to have a "faint knock" it is doubtful to me it would have any effect at all.

 

If you run your bearings without the shields (as some do) the washer will not do anything if your lucky or it will rub on the cage (bad news).

 

The second and third pics show the "spring washer" and a couple of bearings. The bearing on the right has an inner race diameter similar to an original stock bearing. The bearing on the left is an "upgrade hybrid" that has a much larger inner race. Cranking down on the washer will cause it to make contact with both the inner and outer races. Obviously a problem. I have seen copper washers for sale with larger IDs to prevent this from happening, however the spring effect has to be greatly diminished. Careful attention needs to be taken with regard to the inner race contact.

 

Since I don't throw light baits I have removed the "spring washers" from all of my spools. I can still load the bearing in the races if I want by "careful" adjustment of the cast control knob. A big plus for me is without the washer the cast control knob completely clears the rubber o-ring and stays put much better.

 

I haven't had any operational problems without the washers. (or the clips)

 

 

 

Any and all comments appreciated.

 

Lew :D

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The reel is an ultra cast the black plastic shaft clip is there to keep the shaft from spinning. When cranking and casting. On ultra cast reels the spool should spin and not the spool and shaft. You should leave this part in.

The copper spring washer does what you said, it provides light pressure to help control spool speed during a cast. You need this part. The spool bearings were not designed to have a side load placed on them. Once you crush the copper spring washer or tighten the cap without the washer in place. You are asking the bearings to accept an axial load they were not designed for.

Leave the copper spring washer in place and do not crush it. Just a light pressure is all you should use or no pressure at all.

Run the spring washer with the washer touching the outer race and let the axle stop touch the inner race.

 


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To finesse both inputs in the thread: the disk is clipped to the axle, in order to ensure the axle can move up and down in harmony with the cast cap.

The copper shims do not touch the inner race. They provide a slight bounce for the bearing not to get frozen up or down in the spool boss.

They do not contribute to spool tension.

 

Spool tension is a function of that brass "bump" on the axle. This is the bit that hits the inner race of the ball bearing, either slowing it down for cast control, or letting the bearing run free for a looser reel/longer cast.

 

Removal the black disk, along with a flattened shim can lead to an on-off cast cap, with no adjustment. Just on or off, nothing in between.

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Thanks abudoc and Ken D for your comments. I've been thinking about them and have some questions. All of my reels have domed left side covers.

 

You two do not appear to be in exact agreement.

 

abudoc: "the black plastic shaft clip is there to keep the shaft from spinning" I removed the cast control cap from one of my reels and pulled smartly on the line and the shaft didn't turn. ? The tail of the shaft fits fairly snug in the hole in the domed cover. Is this the main purpose for the clip?

 

Ken D: "the disk is clipped to the axle to insure the axle can move up and down in harmony with the cast cap" OK, I accomplish that with my thumb as I search for the "faint knock".

 

 

The "spring washer" --- Which way do you guys install it? Staring into the end of the spool is the washer concave or convex?

 

Ken D: If the washer is convex it may very well touch the inner race of a non stock bearing. (see pics 2 & 3- notice the wall thickness of the inner races)

 

The shoulder of the bearing pocket in the spool that the washer rests on is about the same size as the washer. How does this "bounce" work and what and where does the washer touch the bearing during this "bounce"?

 

If the washer is to prevent the bearing from freezing up in the boss why isn't there a washer behind the other bearing?

 

Tightening the cast control cap pushes the shaft "bump" into the inner race of the right bearing and drives the spool with white gear against the domed cover. Anything beyond the "bump" just touching the inner race creates an axial load on the bearing and thereby slows the spool on the cast. (yes/no)?

 

 

For me, the idea of just on or off is perfect for the way I fish.

 

Thanks guys,

 

Lew :)

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Hello. 1-800-abugarcia is your friend if there is conflicting information. Follow the prompts to reels.

 

I normally place the spring washer convex.

 

Unsure why you would want to expose both sides of a bearing to the elements, by removing both shields.

Why not pull just one side for clean/maintain, and put the shielded side against the washer.

 

As to clearance issues with the washer and the inner race, Unknown. I use stock bearings, with one shield removed.

 

Take a very straight straight edge, and run it across the unshielded ball bearing. This will show any deviations, which would somehow allow the washer to deform to the point it would interfere. I think you will be fine.

 

To test and observe the operation and function of the spring washer: add a little extra bend to it, place in lightly oiled spool boss, add bearing, add axle, and gently push down on axle end, so the bump is in firm contact with the inner race. Look across, as you push down, and release, and see the axle come back up ever so slightly...the amount of the flex in the spring washer, moving the bearing up and down in the boss. The extra bend you put will flatten out over time, bringing the washer back to factory spec.

 

With the design parameters of the spool, a washer on the other end can't work. To work, they would need to place the washer on the bottom of the bearing, to resist upwards, which can't happen, as the spool gear fits on the bottom of the spool, with no way to get a washer to fit.

 

Hope that helps.

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I we are in agreement we just explain things in a different way.



 



abudoc: "the black plastic shaft clip is there to keep the shaft from spinning"



Ken D: "the disk is clipped to the axle to insure the axle can move up and down in harmony with the cast cap"



 



Both statements are correct, Ken D just went on to further explain another function.



 



bunnymoney “For me, the idea of just on or off is perfect for the way I fish.”



 



If you are not using the cast control knob leave it off but leave the spring washer there.



 



bunnymoney “Tightening the cast control cap pushes the shaft "bump" into the inner race of the right bearing and drives the spool with white gear against the domed cover. Anything beyond the "bump" just touching the inner race creates an axial load on the bearing and thereby slows the spool on the cast. (yes/no)?”



 



Yes, along with the friction of the axle gear on the domed cover.



 



bunnymoney “The "spring washer" --- Which way do you guys install it? Staring into the end of the spool is the washer concave or convex?”



 



Convex


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Thanks again guys!

 

I'm still a little confused but I don't believe it will hurt me much. :)

 

One last clarification: abudoc: "if you are not using the cast control knob leave it off but leave the spring washer there"

 

I'm going to guess you mean to leave the cast control knob "off" as in an on/off switch, not "off" as in lying on the bench somewhere.

 

If I'm adjusted to obtain a faint "knock" why do I need the clip or the washer?

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I emailed a 25+ year Abu man at a famous warrranty center in BC, and here's his report:

 

"Hi, Ken..In a straight line when you turn the cap, it puts pressure (all to the opposite side) on the black plastic clip, then the shaft, the brass 'bump', onto the bearing, onto the cushion washer (not in a Rocket model), to the spool gear which ultimately pushes on the side plate.

 

If a fellow hasn't oiled his reel up over the years and it remains dry, the plastic spool gear wears against the side plate bung. A quick check to see if the gear is worn is to push the spool towards the palm plate (opposite handle-side plate). If the spool is off center on that side, the gear is worn.

 

Hope this helps out! M."

 

In severe cases, as per Mike's above I've noted the wear on the spool gear is visible, as a slight flair, and a dull end face. It's about 1.50 to change out.

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