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Crs2006

2 wt lines

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I just picked up a cabelas glass 6ft 2wt, but after searching around my usual suspects online, im having trouble finding decent 2 wt lines. Anyone know who makes 2wt lines or who carries them? Would overlining a glass rod with a 3 wt work?

 

Many thanks,

 

Chris

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sage used to make them that light for there rods(I believe rio made them for them)... if you are going to overline, make sure its a double taper.  I am very familiar with that rod, and it will fish beautifully with one.  Nice rods for short money. 

 


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Awesome. Thank you for the info. I dig Rio lines, so ill probably pick up one of their double tapers, just didnt see the lower weight ones on my "usual suspects" online retailers.

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Ok, really dumb question, but my real world experience with glass vs graphite is limited. I havnt even cast this stick, but it was so cheap I couldnt pass it up. I've wanted a 2 wt for a while.

 

So for the dumb question. I've read this rod rates a bit faster than a typical glass 2wt. I would like to fish smaller (1-4 pound) LMB with it along with using it as a small stream trout stick. DTs are nice for trout, but my concern is it wont have the ability to turn over lightweight poppers or some streamers, as the mass is distributed along the length of the line instead of concentrating the highest percentage of line mass in the first 30 feet like a WF.

 

After looking around, I think Im going to overline the rod, but I was wondering, if I put a WF 3wt on it, will it bend the rod too deep to be effective in small pond situations?

 

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DT and WF lines shoulkd weight the same first 30ft. Trout fishing is often compromise between delicacy and fly delivery capacity. You can use 3wt line and use longer leader with thinner tip for dries which need to land softly.

 

DT line allows casts with very long line loop which improves accuracy but with 2wt rod you won't put more than 30ft of line in the air often. Also DT line does not shoot very well because it is thick all the way. Long casts with DT also needs power from rod because weight increase all the time as well. So IMO definitely only DT2. Then WF2 as well but WF3 might be fine as well. If it is too heavy when you have whole head out of rod tip to shoot you can cut some of it from the rear taper.

 

Esa

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Yeah I have a DT spooled on a 5 that I love using on my mid flex helios.  It is really nice for water loading, roll casting, and does a nice job throwing dry dropper and two fly nymph setups.  Ive never actually used the DT to toss topwater bass patterns now that I think of it, I always use an aggressive taper WF line like the SA Magnum taper probably just because Ive been conditioned by the current marketing to do so.  I may buy just buy a DT 2 and a WF 3 and get an extra spool for the cheapo Ross reel I have on it and call it a day.  The reel and line investment will probably cost more than the rod lol.



 



Im not looking to try to turn this thing into some high performance stick or anything, just thought it would be fun as hell to stick some of the smaller LMB and SMB in my area on some decent sized flies tied with light material on a light duty rod. Plus it'll be nice mid day when its 100 degrees to fire some of my tiny frog poppers into a school of dumb little bluegills in the shade and not feel like im pulling them out with a tow truck. 


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Google "double taper vs weight forward: which is really better" for a good comparison by one of the guys who designs fly lines for Scientific Anglers. He claims no real difference for most of us until you get out to 45-50' (counting your leader).

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my concern is it wont have the ability to turn over lightweight poppers or some streamers, as the mass is distributed along the length of the line instead of concentrating the highest percentage of line mass in the first 30 feet like a WF. After looking around, I think Im going to overline the rod, but I was wondering, if I put a WF 3wt on it, will it bend the rod too deep to be effective in small pond situations?

 

You could experiment making popper line cutting say 20ft of running line from your heavier fly lines and make a shooting head of it. Some of them are too long anyway. Use 10...15lbs mono as shooting line.

 

Of if you have thick Nylon mono line you can make it supple "class" taper less fly line of shooting head boiling it in a water which have some winegar and I have read color it with "coolaid" etc drink concentrate if you want it visible..

 

I see an issue which require some thinking what comes to usefulness of lighter Rio LT WF and DT "Light Touch" head profiles. I like LT WF5 in fast 9ft #5 rod but for older 8'6'' #4 rod LT WF4 45ft head is so long that when head is out of rod tip it "loads" rod quite a lot where it's long front taper benefits of higher line speed which becomes too difficult.

 

Esa

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Crs2006,

This is my opinion based on other small fiber glass rods that I've used: Get a double taper 3 and use it. A small glass rod is great for short casts and really more for "painting" the flies on the water. I have a Mark Steffan , 6', 2-3 weight and I use a three weight dt on it.

With the short amount out of the tip top, you will wear out the end of the line before anything else. Then reverse the dt in a few months and you've got a new tip to use.

The problem with any light weight rod is that they have to balance out flex with strength in a subtle way and it is a tough problem and fiberglass loves to flex!

Suggest you look for some dt3 on sale and use it. I've used orvis, rio and sa- and no one is a winner--but in reality they are all winners! Equally good!

For graphite rods, the parameters are different and really long casts are more than feasible--so you've got to step up the line quality.

George

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I have to imagine that trying to throw even some of the smaller bass bugs and poppers with a 2wt is going to be a challenge. Personally I wouldn't bother using anything less than a 5wt for poppers and a 6 or even a 7 is better. For smallmouth bass the lightest I use is a 4wt and I can assure that with even a 9" fish it's not like pulling them out with a tow truck.

 

When choosing a fly rod size I think it's best to give first consideration to the size of flies you plan on throwing. You spend more time casting than catching so better to match the fly to rod/line and cast properly. Sure you could water haul (basically chuck and duck) big flies with light rods, but after a while it becomes a bit annoying.

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I fish bass mostly, my 9' mid flex five is an awesome popper stick, and I can throw big poppers in wind pretty far on that set up.  I will step up to an 8 if I need to consistently reach out to 70+ feet to hit holding water with a big ole frog popper, or if there is very strong wind.  I fish primarily from shore, and the 8 helps when I am obstructed by shoreline brush and have to cast a long way from a creative shore position to get to the big guys.  Pretty much all my subsurface is on a 8 wt of some sort simply because it throws big streamers efficiently, covers more water, and I get better hooksets.  Ill go subsurface with a 5 wt using flies up to about 4-7 inches, unweighted, if the wind is relatively calm and lake is shallow with an unremarkable lakebed.   



 



I would consider my mid flex to be soft even compared to other modern "mid flex" rods, and it would porbably never be marketed (or even mentioned as a possibility by a sales rep) as a largemouth surface rod.  So, I started thinking about going even lighter for the farm ponds and neighborhood retention ponds I hit.  Im typically setting the hook within 10 to 15 feet of shore in those situations and rarely aerialize anything more than 30 feet.  I imagine the biggest problems I will have is that line mass and fly mass arent compatible, and/or that the wind resistance of the fly will make things a bit dicey.  However, Compared to a Scott F2 in a similar configuration, the CGT seems to be stiffer, and not truly in line with a traditional slow glass action.  Other reviews Ive seen of CGTs compare them more to a moderate/moderate fast action.  I have a 4 wt line that I found in my fly shack last night.  I think someone gave it to me because they bought it by accident.  I dont own a 4 so it never gets used.  Ill string up and try it out tonight just for kicks and see how deeply it loads the rod and update



 



Thanks for all the info and suggestions guys.  This is the lightest rod Ive owned and the second lightest Ive ever fished, so, kind of new territory for me.  


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Crrs I used to run the fly shop at cabelas for four years, in ct. IMHO that rod is not at all fast. Slow, but not the slowest I have used. It may be tough to throw a popper for bass of any size on any two weight, not that it is impossible but challenging. Reason I like the double taper on that rod is for purely roll casting reasons. Also since they are all " short " rods, in the cgr series, they can be a little tougher to get long distance casting done. This rod is designed for small streams, dry flies, and work to about the 40 foot range. Hope this helps I really like the rods but I definitely feel it is a bit more of a niche rod.

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Ok so i just threw it with that 4 wt line (gpx mastery textured) and a warmwater whammy (1/0 i believe) tied to a 6 foot leader (20lb butt, 10 lb tippet). variable direction wind. 30-40' pretty easy and pretty darn accurate once i hammered out the timing with the slower action. Bad timing led to collapsed loops at the end of the cast. Good timing shot the line nicely and carried the fly through th cast perfectly. It felt very smooth. I had to punch the delivery stroke a bit in the wind. I think itll be a pretty fun farm pond stick once i get used to the slow casting cadence. Im going to buy a spool and 3wt DT for trouting. Definitely Looking forward to sticking some fish with it.

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