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DickB

Reel seat loose -- how to fix it in place?

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My surfcasting rod is a homemade -- bought it as blanks + guides, etc., at a Cape Cod tackle shop years ago.  The reel seat -- some sort of a plastic all-in-one slip on -- has come loose and turns/swivels about on the rod.  I'm sure the shop sold me a glue/cement to use to secure it in place.  There's cork wrap-around above the reel seat, and the same below the seat. 



 



I was at first thinking of simply mixing up some epoxy and flowing it under the plastic seat, twirling it about, cleaning things up, letting it cure in place.  Then it came to me that perhaps I should unwrap the bottom cork, slip off the seat, clean up the rod, and then cement it back in place.  Buy more cork and put that in place. 



 



The reel is a conventional reel -- Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 75600 C3 CT Mag Elite.  That's what has to be gripped in place, upright on the rod.  Not a spinning reel.



 



Questions are: a) epoxy? or b) take apart, then c) what kind of cement/epoxy to, this time, really keep it in place.? Then, d) would there be nicer, more secure seats available and if so are there suggestions on what to consider? 



 



Thanks.



 



DickB


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The best way would be to take off the reelseat and start over. Check first to see if the reelseat will actually clear the blank from the rear. Many times the reelseat is too small to do that.

 

Many places use masking tape as a spacer between the blank and the reelseat and epoxy over it. This is an acceptable practice. Many people will violently disagree with me but I have seen more than 1 reelseat break loose because the paper masking tape broke loose or the reelseat if someone didn't sand the inside of the reelseat to scratch it create a better bond.

 

I suggest using fiberglass wallboard tape. The epoxy goes all the way through from the reelseat to the blank and acts like rebar does in concrete. Also make sure you lightly sand the blank and inside of the reelseat to make a better bond.

 

If the reelseat is too small to come off the back of the blank, then I would drill a small hole in the reel seat and inject epoxy into the reelseat and maby each end then turn it on a dryer to make sure the epoxy is distributed. You could also thin the epoxy just a little to make sure it flows all around.

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cut off the reel seat clean up up the old glue use masking tape as your arbors i like to make 4 arbors if i could. you more than likley will have to up the size of the reel seat to slide it on from the butt end. when you put your epoxy on the arbors try to get the glue in between the arbors and cover the whole area. put some paper down underneath so excess wont spill all over

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Sounds like there's a plan here.  Take the cork wrapping off the bottom of the rod, see if the seat will come down and off.  If so, then rough up insides (and I suppose lightly buff the rod too where the seat will reside), slide back on with epoxy as well as inject epoxy. 



 



Or, if it won't come off, cut it off and find a new reel seat with an interior diameter just large enough to clear the butt of the rod.  Sand per above, epoxy per above.



 



So, where are some places online that sell various seat sizes and where inside diameters are given?



 



Thanks to you two for some sage advice.



 



Cheers, Dick


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its really not hard go to any tackle shop that builds rods by you. if its fuji reel seat take a look at the top of reel seat it should say the size there should be a number if it isnt worn out. post some pics of the reel seat maybe we can help.

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Easiest is to get some 30 minute liquid epoxy and inject it under the seat . I use one of the flexcoat measuring syringes and I use wrapping thread to tie a typical thin wall plastic drinking straw on to the end of the stringe. Mix the epoxy two parts in a cup and pour into the syringe. The drinking straw will collapse way down almost as thin as a liece of paper but still be stiff enough to get it under the seat. Inject the epoxy in as much , as deep and along as many axis as possible. Then be sure to re-align it with the guides before it cures. Repair should last for many many years , maybe forever.

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Saltheart: I like that -- easiest of all suggestions.  And since I suspect that epoxy was not the original binding element -- probably some kind of cement...it might well hold for many seasons.



 



Thanks.



 



Cheers, Dick


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Easiest is to get some 30 minute liquid epoxy and inject it under the seat . I use one of the flexcoat measuring syringes and I use wrapping thread to tie a typical thin wall plastic drinking straw on to the end of the stringe. Mix the epoxy two parts in a cup and pour into the syringe. The drinking straw will collapse way down almost as thin as a liece of paper but still be stiff enough to get it under the seat. Inject the epoxy in as much , as deep and along as many axis as possible. Then be sure to re-align it with the guides before it cures. Repair should last for many many years , maybe forever.

 

best way ive used myself, on mine i drilled a small hole into the reel seat to insert the straw, sometimes you cant do that as the blank is too close to the seat, the two i fixed using the above method have last for over 5 years, one is my dads go to rod.

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Pullback cork tape, apply some epoxy into the end. Stand the rod up and let it settle . It should draw down into reel seat tape lower end, so that the epoxy doesn't run over the butt cork. Make sure you line up the reel seat With the guides before you stand it up.

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If the cork tape is in good shape I would use a wire to see if I could make a hole along the blank to almost the bottom, Seal the bottom, (I'm thinking electric tape) and pour some epoxy in the top. A funnel may have to be made of some tape. Stand up and allow to set/dry.

 

To see if the seat will clear the butt all you need is a c-clamp to measure the outside of the seat, if that will clear you are done, if it won't you have to see by how much it misses and work from there considering the thickness of the seat.

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Status report.



 



Took electricians' tape off butt and top part of reel seat (Fuji).  Removed cork tape from top (only about 8" as measured on the rod fro top of reel seat to the hook keeper).  The seat not only twisted on the rod, but moved up/down.  Clearly I did not, when building the rod, apply any kind of adhesive (???).  Amazing that it stayed in place while bringing in fish, all those casts, winding of the reel. 



 



Cleaned up rod where tape adhesive left residue, then very lightly sanded rod surface for a tooth for epoxy.  Ripped a 10" or long x 1/8" piece of fabric backed sandbelt, and, with seat as far up the rod as I'd removed cork, slipped that sandbelt piece under the seat, grit side up, and then pressed the seat down on the grit, moving seat up/down while rotating it. 



 



Now I'm all set: toothed surfaces on inside of seat and on rod.  Tomorrow, maybe...?  Mix up boat epoxy (1:2 mix, Raka brand, and I can add a thickening additive with a brush on the rod, then slither the seat down on it all).  Should fill up the cavity.  I'll align it, clean up epoxy (masking beforehand, to be sure).  That's the plan. 



 



Thanks for considerable experiences shared and thoughts. 



 



Dick


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The epoxy set up and the reel seat is locked in tight.  The reel seat is where it is supposed to be, the old cork wrap above the seat had enough adhesive on it to go back in place.  Later, a bit of black tape to finish things off at the seat ends.  Looking good, small job gone right....



 



Thanks all -- Dick


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