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Striperfever

Installing flush mounts

8 posts in this topic

When installing flush mounts, what is a good tool for cutting out a perfect hole?

 

I know barrell told me to cap off the end of the flush mount so that water doesnt get in also, he also rec glueing the mount down with aquaseal. Why not just use a few nuts and bolts or rivits??? Thats what we used for the cleats and the Scottys rod holder!

 

Thanks in advancesmile.gif

 

SF

 

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Is it Hot in here, or is it just me!!!

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striper fever, I have used bolts in the past but the rivets hold the flush mounts so well thats all you need. A hole cutter is ideal but a sabre saw will do the job just fine. Aquaseal sticks to poly better than anything else ,b ut under the flange of the flush mount a bead of silicone would be fine. The scottys block mount we put on is on the inside of the boat and less prone to splashing. It is also hollow underneath so doesnt matter if you put sealent. The closed fish locating method for the flush mout is very prone to splashing but I doubt if any water would get under the flange if you didnt bother sealing it. I forgot to give you a few rivets for those flush mounts. If you need em I can mail em.

Barrell

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Striperfever,

 

I found the drill w/ hole saw combo to work quite well with one caveat; the hole is not round but elliptical, if the flush mounts are inclined as most are. The ellipse can still be drilled with a round hole saw, you simply have to incline the drill as you go in. I practised several times on some scrap 1/2" plywood until I figured out the right angle for the drill to produce the hole I needed.

 

Four additional hints:

 

1. The size of the hole saw should match the largest diameter of the shaft of the rod holder.

 

2. Buy cheap PVC flush mount rod holders (i.e. BoatUS, West Marine, Boaters World) with the hole in the bottom then use standard PVC pipe caps and PVC glue to cap them after you insert them through the holes but before you bolt them in place. This will allow you to drill the smallest hole possible.

 

3. You'll probably find, as I did, that the pilot drill for the hole saw won't help you because of the angle of the hole. Hold the drill VERY steady while it starts cutting.

 

4. Use fasteners (bolts if you can reach) AND sealant (aquaseal, silicone, 3M 5200, whatever).

 

Good Luck,

 

Chris

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Thanks guys, Im gonna try and finish setting up the Yak this weekend and have it ready to fish Sunday...I hope!

 

Sf

 

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Is it Hot in here, or is it just me!!!

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I'm not that familiar with the stuff that's stated here. Does the saw-bit on the drill impart an elipse if it's angled properly? How hard is it to maintain the angled approach.

 

And porter: does the cap fit through the elipse when the mount/cap is inserted through the hole? I don't have access from any point except through the hole itself (porter- great advice btw!!).

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Fever, the rod holders I gave you are straight you dont want to drill an eliptical hole but a round hole. Some guys put angled flush mounts behind their seat,but you dont want an angle for the reasons we discused at the shop. Your SCottys I mounted behind the seat is more secure for trolling. You want at least one of them under where your fist would pound on the rail of the Explorer when sitting in the seat.

Barrell

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Barrell/Striperfever,

 

Sorry about that. I jumped in assuming they were angled mounts just because that's what I've seen before and use myself.

 

JPL,

 

Yes, you will get an ellipse drilling at an angle. It's not that hard to get the angle right because there is a bit of slop between the hole and the tube at the flange. Practice first on plywood, it's harder to get right than the polyethylene.

 

Also, the cap will generally not fit through the hole. I had access from the interior through my rear hatch. Not sure what I'd do if not; perhaps find a way to plug the drainage hole from the inside of the tube.

 

Good luck,

Chris

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