AndyS

Thread for Skiff Owners

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We know every wire location, every gas line so that when something happens we know what to fix. He really enjoyed the project.

 

Steve - I think that is a HUGE benefit. Even with my simple, small skiff - it's pretty much impossible to follow all the wires and cables as they are all grouped together to conserve space and look pretty.

 

Great posts by all. Learning stuff and enjoying all the great pictures too. Here are a couple pics from yesterday, doing what we all like to do from our skiffs. By the way, I swear I am way better looking than the camera depicts in the pre-dawn hours. I'm not even sure who that guy is! :shock:

 

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Here is a pic of my 14' Lund WC, purchased new last year.



Bought it with a trailer from a dealer in SE MA.



 



Question on the trailer: it's a new Loadrite with a 2yr coupler to taillight warranty.



Just checked the bulbs the other night and they are corroded away, glass popped etc.



The trailer has been used in both salt and freshwater over the course of 2012.



 



I do not see anything in the warranty about saltwater exclusions etc - anyone know if this will be covered for repair?



Thanks



 



*

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Here is a pic of my 14' Lund WC, purchased new last year.

Bought it with a trailer from a dealer in SE MA.

 

Question on the trailer: it's a new Loadrite with a 2yr coupler to taillight warranty.

Just checked the bulbs the other night and they are corroded away, glass popped etc.

The trailer has been used in both salt and freshwater over the course of 2012.

 

I do not see anything in the warranty about saltwater exclusions etc - anyone know if this will be covered for repair?

Thanks

 

*

 

You mentioned "glass popped" as well as corrosion. Are you disconnecting the lights before dunking the trailer? If I were the dealer that would be my suspicion.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DanKing View Post

You mentioned "glass popped" as well as corrosion. Are you disconnecting the lights before dunking the trailer? If I were the dealer that would be my suspicion.



 



No I have not been disconnecting - would that have shorted out the circuit?



I read online that the reason for disconnecting was so that the bulb wasn't hot....but if that's the case wouldn't you have to wait for the bulbs to cool before dunking?  Unplugging alone would not cool them enough


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No I have not been disconnecting - would that have shorted out the circuit?

I read online that the reason for disconnecting was so that the bulb wasn't hot....but if that's the case wouldn't you have to wait for the bulbs to cool before dunking?  Unplugging alone would not cool them enough

 

My question is...How is water getting? --- My #1 problem with the trailer tail lights is other people hitting them while I'm out on the water

...the lense gets a small crack , and the seal is broken - you dont notice it..and that's - that.

11yrs with my loadrite - I have had 4-5 different sets of tail lights and 3-4 differnt sets of side marker lights

- I just replaced the wiring and upgraded to the LED tail lights = cheap from Habor Freight - $32 for both tail lights.

Get used to light problems - i have an issue at the beginning of each season.

- Buy Liquid tape and seal the wire to wire connections - especially on the Blue splice snaps - this helps immensly ( $10 also @ HF with a buit in brush applicator)

- I have a drawer in the Basement dedicated to just trailer light repair.

 

pd

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Quote:

Originally Posted by pdspeh69 View Post

My question is...How is water getting? --- My #1 problem with the trailer tail lights is other people hitting them while I'm out on the water

...the lense gets a small crack , and the seal is broken - you dont notice it..and that's - that.

11yrs with my loadrite - I have had 4-5 different sets of tail lights and 3-4 differnt sets of side marker lights

- I just replaced the wiring and upgraded to the LED tail lights = cheap from Habor Freight - $32 for both tail lights.

Get used to light problems - i have an issue at the beginning of each season.

- Buy Liquid tape and seal the wire to wire connections - especially on the Blue splice snaps - this helps immensly ( $10 also @ HF with a buit in brush applicator)

- I have a drawer in the Basement dedicated to just trailer light repair.

pd



These lights are not sealed, I am guessing they are the "submersible" type.



There is a hole at the bottom where the wires enter, and I think they work on the bell concept.



However this assumes the gaskets on the lens are water tight - that may have been the issue here.



Either way I am thinking bad design choice by LoadRite (when you have a coupler to tail light warranty).



 



Still waiting to hear back from dealer.....


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Not at all uncommon. Probably you would be best served by LED's lifted up from the water on stalks. They would be a fairly costly fix, but you could forget maintenance for a very long time. It would be even better if you were to remove the wiring from the trailer and run wires directly to the lights with removable plugs. Pull up. Unplug light wiring. Throw in the back of the car and back in. No worries about water penetration or corrosion. My lights are wired that way and I've never had the slightest problem with them. The other advantage is that the lights are high on the trailer, making them more visible to both you and other drivers following behind. You might have to run wires to clearance lights as well. if your trailer has them.

 

Best regards,

 

Irv

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I just bought a kit for let trailer lights. 75 bucks for the whole kit easy to wire. Just use heat shrink connectors and keep the water out as best as possible. But it is salt water and dumping any wires and lights under salt they just don't last. Corrosion keeps coming.

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No I have not been disconnecting - would that have shorted out the circuit?

I read online that the reason for disconnecting was so that the bulb wasn't hot....but if that's the case wouldn't you have to wait for the bulbs to cool before dunking?  Unplugging alone would not cool them enough

 

The routine around here is to first park, prep the boat (disconnect lights, remove tie-downs, load gear etc), then head over to the ramp to launch the boat. That gives the bulbs more than enough time to cool off. The problem is when you back down the ramp and the brake lights come on while they are underwater; pop they go every time. Most factory light fixtures are not waterproof at all.

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