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bunnymoney

DIY conversion of modern Abu 5500C3

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:wave:

 

Hi!

 

This is what I started with:

 

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This is what I ended up with:

 

 

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Along the way this happened:

 

 

The hardest part was cutting this slot with only a dremel and a file. I wish I still had my unimat.

 

 

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This pic is of Hookless's crossbar and studs:

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If I was to keep this reel I would try it with just one magnet. Todays testing suggested just one might be enough.

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and then this: (This should draw some questions- I'm ready)

 

 

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The next two pics show the axel cap loose and tight. The first pic show the cap loose with the o-ring exposed and the spool not in the center. The second pic shows the cap almost screwed down tight and the spool centered.

 

 

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The last pick shows it spooled with 150 yards of 40 lb tracer braid for testing:

 

 

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OK,

 

I've had my fun. It's time to part with this in the BST in a day or two. I still can't get comfortable with out a levelwind.

 

Ask any questions you want.

 

I'd be happy to answer them. I also have a parts list that I'll post later today if anyone's interested.

 

Lew :)

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and then this: (This should draw some questions- I'm ready)

 

I'll shoot. Bearing sleeves? What does this do in a baitcaster and what advantage did you gain? :)

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Nice!

 

I was also in the process of using sleeves on my Abu Blue Yonder

But then I found the following thread and I'm in the process of buying the bushing and the cog gear from Akios and then try to install them in my Blue Yonder

 

http://www.stripersonline.com/t/853012/akios-shuttle-666-scm-w

 

So, you are trying to eliminate the friction created by the cog gear rubbing on the bushing on the left side by using sleeves right?

 

http://www.stripersonline.com/t/871760/akios-parts-in-abu

 

Cheers, Maruthu

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i don't get what exactly you were looking to achieve - a cm reel out of a cs, plus an adjustable mag control?

 

if so, all that's needed is to remove the lw gears, the lw pawl, put a piece of tape over lw worm gear and yer good to go ...

 

1503413

 

[img=

 

and after installing a knobby mag on the above abu, i realize it's just not all that important or needed, but it was kinda fun to install ...

 

1503416

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i don't get what exactly you were looking to achieve - a cm reel out of a cs, plus an adjustable mag control?

if so, all that's needed is to remove the lw gears, the lw pawl, put a piece of tape over lw worm gear and yer good to go ...

and after installing a knobby mag on the above abu, i realize it's just not all that important or needed, but it was kinda fun to install ...

 

It is a matter of having the sophistication of a speed bushing and hence a tournament quality casting :)

 

Cheers, Maruthu

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i was going to get the ct kit for a coupla abu c3's and spoke with jerry foran @ hookless and basically he said "if the top cross bar doesn't get in yer way, don't bother with getting the bar replacement for the worm gear and screw plugs for the top bar. so that's what i did, nothing other than remove the pawl and lw gear - and save some good dollars. i think it makes for a stronger frame as i get to retain both bars and not lose one. that top bar in no way hinders either my casting or retrieving. ymmv.

 

1503498

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:clap:

:D Thank You!

 

I'll shoot. Bearing sleeves? What does this do in a baitcaster and what advantage did you gain? :)

The shorter sleeve on the left side is hand fitted to position the spool in the center of the frame.

It touches the inner race of the bearing and the outer race supports the spool.

The longer sleeve is hand fitted between the bearings, touching the inner races and allows the spool the ability to move side to side an almost imperceptible distance and causing a faint "knock" as the spool slides along the outer races and bottoms out in the pocket.

These two sleeves create a situation where there is NO additional drag on the spool other than the bearings and choice of oil. (Except for the windmill effect on the brake block holder)

 

 

Nice!

So, you are trying to eliminate the friction created by the cog gear rubbing on the bushing on the left side by using sleeves right?

http://www.stripersonline.com/t/871760/akios-parts-in-abu

Cheers, Maruthu

In part, see above.

 

 

i don't get what exactly you were looking to achieve - a cm reel out of a cs, plus an adjustable mag control?

if so, all that's needed is to remove the lw gears, the lw pawl, put a piece of tape over lw worm gear and yer good to go ...

and after installing a knobby mag on the above abu, i realize it's just not all that important or needed, but it was kinda fun to install ...

I was trying to achieve a modern "Abu 5500C3CT Mag" which I don't think actually exists. (maybe?)

I wanted it to look like something that might have come from Abu and was relatively inexpensive.

What you've done is a good start.

I'll admit I don't have the same challenges as you as I crank with my right hand. :D

As to the value of the mag: I have eliminated ALL mechanical braking as there are NO side loads on the bearings and eliminated the centrifugal braking by removing all the blocks. I am relying completely on the mag and bearing oil. Having all 3 types of braking will definitely diminish the perceived value of the mag until you cast into a wind.

 

 

 

 

talk about marketing.......;):th:

Is it going to work? :D :D :D

 

 

Can You tell us more about that ct bar, is it oval, what about the two extraholes in the frame?

No it's very round, very heavy and REALLY stiffens the frame.

If you are referring to the holes from removing the upper levelwind bar and frame stiffener, they are filled with the studs from Hookless.

 

 

Lew :)

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BeachBob View Post

 

i don't get what exactly you were looking to achieve - a cm reel out of a cs, plus an adjustable mag control?

if so, all that's needed is to remove the lw gears, the lw pawl, put a piece of tape over lw worm gear and yer good to go ...

and after installing a knobby mag on the above abu, i realize it's just not all that important or needed, but it was kinda fun to install ...

 

I was trying to achieve a modern "Abu 5500C3CT Mag" which I don't think actually exists. (maybe?)

I wanted it to look like something that might have come from Abu and was relatively inexpensive.

What you've done is a good start.

I'll admit I don't have the same challenges as you as I crank with my right hand. biggrin.gif

As to the value of the mag: I have eliminated ALL mechanical braking as there are NO side loads on the bearings and eliminated the centrifugal braking by removing all the blocks. I am relying completely on the mag and bearing oil. Having all 3 types of braking will definitely diminish the perceived value of the mag until you cast into a wind.

 

i'm a righty that prefers lefty - going righty on the crank IS a challenge for me. :D

 

looks like you had some fun with yer conversion, and that's all that matters. :cool:

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Here is a parts list with recent prices:

 

New or used 5500C3, $40-$90

 

 

Mag control knob, 116623, $3.16

Mag control, 1126622, $3.76

Very small screw, 295, $0.35

Magnetic holder complete, 23501, $8.53

Small spring, 23506, $4.88

Clickspring, 25222, $5.21

Decal, 96410, $1.40

Handle Nut, 5327, $3.75

Handle Nut Cover, 20944, $1.75

Conversion Bar, 5CTB, $15.00

Conversion Studs, (pair), 6CTS, $8.50

Freight about $10.00 (for all from several sources)

 

If you spend over $50 at Pure Fishing you will get a 20% discount on parts.

 

A number of the above parts can be had used for a lot less.

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I understand that the longer sleeve keeps the bearings slightly further apart than usual.

Hence the spool slides over the bearings by a tiny bit, there by keeping the stress on the bearings minimal.

 

Can you please tell how much advantage did the longer sleeve give you in terms of casting distance?

I'd assume that the advantage gained might be far lesser than the advantage you would have gained from the shorter sleeve?

 

Thanks, Maruthu

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I understand that the longer sleeve keeps the bearings slightly further apart than usual.

Hence the spool slides over the bearings by a tiny bit, there by keeping the stress on the bearings minimal.

Can you please tell how much advantage did the longer sleeve give you in terms of casting distance?

I'd assume that the advantage gained might be far lesser than the advantage you would have gained from the shorter sleeve?

Thanks, Maruthu

 

The sleeve between the bearings does provide a "lesser" gain because you can adjust the right cap to create a "knock" without it. However once you have fitted the longer sleeve you pretty much can't screw it up and create side loads on the bearing races. You can tighten the right side cap all the way down and as long you don't bend the shaft the spool will still be adjusted for a slight knock. It makes it fairly goof-proof.

 

Lew :)

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Lew,

 

Thanks for the response!

 

I can't wait till I get Akios speed bushing and the shorter cog gear and try installing them in my Abu Blue Yonder.

Then I might see if I can beef up my Blue Yonder for Dual Anti reverse, but that might be a bit complicated or expensive or both ?!!!

 

Cheers, Maruthu

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