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buz23

Static deflection 90 degree test - how much load

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OK, I'm trying to space out the runners on a 10' NCG build. The rod (MHX SU1197F, 1-4 oz, 9'11") has quite a bit of flex in the tip, nowhere near as stiff in the tip as several others (SSU) I've built. When I tried static loading with about 2.5#, the tip was pointing straight down (butt horizontal) and it was obvious that the last runner (nearest the tip) wasn't in play at all at that loading. I assume that as I would load the rod to heavier weights, the flexing would move back down the rod and the spacing of the runners nearer the tip would become less and less important.

 

This rod is rated 12-25#. What do you think is an appropriate weight to do the static deflection with - as a percentage of the rod's rating to generalize if you will?

 

I have used the search on this site, checked out the info on the Fuji site and rodbuilders site. While everyone seems to recommend flexing the rod to 90 degrees, it seems to me that the portion of the rod being flexed will vary as the weight varies. Hence my question.

 

Thanks for your guidance on this weighty topic.

 

 

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Its not that you can do away with the tip guides cause the rod flexes way down towards the butt. You still need several tip guides but you also need tighter spacing all the way down the rod too.

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The rod will travel through an infinite number of "load bends" during every fish fight you ever have. There is no magic spot for guides that will cover every load condition. 90-degrees is chosen because it's a good, strong rod position for handling a fish, and because your rod is "roughly" in this position a lot during an average fight. Loading at 90 will split the difference between higher and lower rod position. One thing I have learned the hard way, if you're fishing for fish that you just "boat flip" into the boat like a 13 -15 inch seatrout, you might want to go ahead and add that tip section guide that 90-degrees indicates you don't need. Two pounds of weight at the end of an overbent tip often results in a snapping sound when the line dips below the blank and "pinches" the tip until it pops.

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That's plenty of bend for a stress test. I'd probably add a guide (or two) but that layout is not too bad. look for where there are the biggest angles created as the line goes over the guide ring. Add guides in spots that minimizes there high angle spots. I certainly would not remove any guides neat the top of that rod.

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IMO that looks pretty damn good! As long as you have a decent line flow without any sharp bends you will be fine. You have enough on the tip for plenty of blank protection and go and test cast and that will tell you if you gather guides are set good. That thing certainly bends doesn't it??

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The distance between runners is more about keeping the line under control during a cast than load distribution. They are small and light so there is no reason to skimp on them. Also, with a bad cast you can overload the tip late and an extra guide or two might save a tip break (just guessing about this). Your layout looks good to my eye. Have you cast it? Also what size reel and how large the first guide? It looks close in to me, but I'm used to LC's so my eye is all effed up.

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The stripper is a 30L, and the reels I use (I laid this out for a Stradic 5000 size) have about a 2" diameter spool lip. Not only is the Stradic a small reel, it also sits close to the blank, so the location of the stripper (so far) is positioned exactly on the line from the center of the spool to the choke guide (about 54" out) The stripper did end up closer to the reel (about 24") than other builds I've done but maybe that isn't so bad considering the flex in this blank. (There was a recent thread about casting versus fighting performance that I read carefully). I had a SSU1081L blank break about 8" above the foregrip (on a cast, not on a fish) so I am little sensitive about overloading the blank in that location.

 

I tried the Fuji GPS software and it suggested I put this stripper guide ridiculously close to the reel, something like 20".

 

I haven't test casted yet.

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dont base much on the ssu break, they had issues with those some of those blanks. i had 2 break the same way , same spot. they have been resolved i believe. but the supporting of the blank and using the power of the blank is a good reason not to move the stripper to far away. as long as it doesnt impede you casting the added support and power are good. for the running guides place them based on static testing, very important to support the blank where it will bend most and match the curve of the blank with the curve of the line, as little angle as possible on the line between guides. As far as the running guides and casting is concerned line control isnt a concern, after the choke the line runs straight. you just want them close enough that the line doesnt belly in between them which really wont happen if you have enough (from static test) to support the blank

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How can GPS suggest a stripper too close to the reel? Just choose the next guide out as the stripper. There''s no rule about the ring size of that guide, it's about the height of that guide. The smaller ring may actually do a better job of smoothing line flow and making the entire reduction train work better. It's worth a shot since a smaller ring will make the entire rod lighter and more responsive.

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To Croaker's point use the smallest ring size you can for the stripper without causing bunching and killing your cast. just mathc the height of the guide to like line you want and see where it lands. Based on the line you could probably use a number of different guides for the stripper based on where you place them on the blank

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A 30mm guide for a collector on a 5000 stella sounds HUGE. That reel that will throw through a 16M lowrider and do it very, very well. Anything larger sounds like overkill to me.

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I took the rod out and test casted (real nice with a 1 oz bomber although the ice on the line and guides was annoying) and moved the collector up and back a little with no significant difference, so I came home and wrapped it. Thanks for all your suggestions. Unfortunately, I am an amateur rod builder and don't have an endless supply of various guides on hand to try multiple layouts. When I build my next rod (have the blank, a GSB120L1) I will order a wider assortment of guides, including strippers with smaller rings and additional runners and will apply your suggestions to my next build.

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I am vacationing on MV and have had ample opportunity to fish this MHX rod the last two nights. BTW, I ended up with a 25 KW stripper (at about 28"). I get a little line slap on a really hard cast, but It casts a bomber or a SP a mile. I am using a Stradic 5000 and 20# PP. I wish they would hurry up with the higher framed KW's, I'll bet that would be the nuts with this setup. The rod fishes with a "faster" action than my static deflection tests made me anticipate. Very light, balances just ahead of the reel, a pleasure to fish with. I'm going to have to alternate it with my SSU 108L1 (redesigned blank) to see which is preferable. The SSU is slightly lighter but I don't think it throws as far.

 

Fish to 33" last night, no problem sliding the smaller ones up the sand. I don't think I shook as many fish off as I did last year when I was using my SSU108M1.

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