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question on fuji K frame guides

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roundman

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I, I only get wind knots at the tip and first foot of the rod. ............. What this means to me is that the only K anti-wind knot guide that you are going to be able to use where the wind knots generally take place is on the tip. So if everyone else is like me and are only getting wind knots on the tip and the last foot and a half of their rods what is the big deal with these new Fiji K guides other than they look different. I personally like the looks of the old concept guides. It is only logical that if one cannot use anti-wind knot guides where they happen on the spinning rod the guides are essentially useless for handling the wind knots. So again, I am having trouble understanding the hype surrounding these new guides. :bigeyes:

 

Looks aside, your rod is built wrong and that is why you get casting guide loops near the tip. Your reduction train guides are way too big so the line is not yet tamed when it hits the smaller guides near the tip and the line overruns and loops.

 

Learn to use small, high, loop shedding guides as a collector to damp the line down quickly, then run it out the rod with small guides and you will eliminate guide loops as well as end up with a much lighter more responsive rod. The K guides (and older LC guides) shed loops better than the older style guides so you can use a much smaller collector as long as it is high enough to avoid line slap.

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The K series guides in no way prevent wind knots. Fuji claims they shed tangles meaning wrapping around guides on a cast. With the K series i have not started a rod with anything larger then a 30, IMO the 40 and 50 are useless. The 30H and 30L and the 25 I have used as gathering guides. If I'm building a rod with running guides smaller then a size 8 I move to the LDB size 6 which is the toughest single foot guide ever made.

 

I to think there is a bit of hype around these guides but marketing hype is not just with Fuji but many many products we use. I have never had the line wrap around a guide during a cast.. Of course a few will tell you I just don't cast with enough velocity to cause line wrap.. So If that is the case then, I guess SV's and or K's are good enough for 99% of fisherman. I will say this the K works just as well as the old SV guides they cast equal we have proved that. The only problem is we need the K to come in more ring sizes with higher frames.

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I have used the K frame Alconites only because I bought two full sets when they first came out. I have not been impressed, they are more expensive than the BSVLG series, and I agree that the size 40 and 50 are really not necessary. I did use a size 40 in the K frame for a surf rod that was built for a Vs275. It just happened to fit the application.

 

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^^^ You might have not been impressed though My tests and others tests have shown they cast just as well as the SV type frames. That said You better get on board with the K frames for two reasons 1) they sell!! 2) Don't count on the SV frame being around for very much longer. Only the lower cost Factory rods are really using SV guides as the mid and high priced rods from Lamiglas, Loomis and I think soon St Croix use the K guides. Even if Fuji discontinues the SV frame the lower price rods from the factories could switch to Pacbay or Batson. I would never but they have and could!! It's my opinion the only reason the SV is still around is the factories still buy and use them.

 

I also would never use a K 40 or 50 on any rod even if it used a VS700. Those sizes are the longest, largest POS guides made that have no benieft at all! I only use SV40 size due to frame height issues and not having the HV frame any more!! So... I will continue to use the K and SV on my faxctory and custom rods the LC/ Lowrider on the other hand... We won't go there!!

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Surfmaster,



 I wasn't impressed with the K frames because they just cost more than the BSVLG's and didn't provide any advantages, other than the advertised "tangle-free" design.



 It seems every time I start to standardize on a system of components for my rod designs some marketing genius figures out how to make "marginal" design changes that usually result in the dropping of one design and substitution of another, usually at a higher price.



 For years I used the Fuji SIC high frame surf guides with great success. Eventually, they were dropped and no longer offered. I also used the SIC HNSG guides with great success on all of the conventional rods I built but again, they are no longer offered to the market.



 I believe that the same thing will happen with the MNSG guides that I have been using, again with great success. Eventually, the K frames will probably go the same route when some one figures out how to "IMPROVE" them with and added cost for the supposed improvement.



 Ain't technology grand!!

 

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The KW's are the closest you can get to the old high framed SiC guides. On top of that you get the tangle free design , the tilted ring that seems to steer the line down to the blank and the alconite option. All things considered the KW's are a good choice to have available. If fuji would come out with the high framed 20 KW there would be no more remorse about the discontinued HH guides IMO.

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The KW's are the closest you can get to the old high framed SiC guides. On top of that you get the tangle free design , the tilted ring that seems to steer the line down to the blank and the alconite option. All things considered the KW's are a good choice to have available. If fuji would come out with the high framed 20 KW there would be no more remorse about the discontinued HH guides IMO.

 

Agree!! I also think they the angle breaks the coils up better which is something I've noticed with the new KR concept as well! Joe, If you don't like em.. You don't like em.. No harm no foul!!

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I have been at the ICAST show and unable to jump in on this and it may be just as well. The whole wind knot thing seems to be very subjective. If you have them (due to casting style or weather related crosswinds) the K-Series is a godsend. If you don't have them (and some folks just don't for a variety of reasons) then you tend to believe the whole thing is hype or you just believe wind knots don't exist. They do exist, and Fuji was able to recreate the conditions in the lab and work to correct them, there's plenty of video to substantiate that. Salt makes a good point...K guides have enough going for them that "tangle-free" can be as far down the list as you want it to be. I think the best benefit of "tangle free" is the ease with which you can "shake off" top section tangles after you boat a fish or lay your rod down for any number of reasons. I can release a fish, grab the rod, point the tip down, shake off any loops and fire a cast with K guides faster than any guides I have ever used. I know it's not a wind knot, just a PITA loop, but I really like the way K's handle it.

I am affiliated with Anglers Resource.
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Be aware that you will probably get line slap if you use a Stradic 5000 and a 25 or 20 non-H guide. The stradic sits really close to the blank. A little line slap isn't too bad, though. I like the fact that I can let the line lightly slap against my extended index finger during a cast, and when the lure hits, that finger captures the line while I manually close the bail. I have never had a wind knot with my stradic. With a higher framed reel, this manuever doesn't work as well.

 

My last two builds used a MN 30 and a KW 25 respectively for the strippers (these two are about the same height), around 28-31" from the reel face. Both have some line slap with the stradic 5000.

 

I have a GSB1201L under construction that starts with a KW30 (H). No line slap whatsoever during test casting, but I admit the reduction train was laid out and tested with a higher framed reel (Okuma VS55A).

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