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RedJeep

GPS turns off when I turn key for engine

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It was that my old one would go off when I turned off the engine. But when I installed my new one I connected it on the other side of the terminal block. Now it stays on till I touch the key again. Does this have a purpose? I would like to know which way I want to head rather than wait for the GPS to reboot.

 

Peace

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You need at least 10 volts to run your electronics but if thats all you are getting to kick your engine over then you need to charge your battery if you aren't running you boat for prolonged periods of time.

 

You are losing power because maybe you are drawing from a week wire (it needs to read 12 volts) check the battery first and then if that checks, check out the wire. Now if its the wire all you need to do is run a separate wire for your electronics.

 

You will have no problems if you keep your battery charged at 12 volts always.

 

Also you could have a bad cell in your battery and you need to replace it. I would go AGM batteries.

 

I have AGM's in my boat, Mega Crank HD AGM Battery - 925 CCA, the other ones are for my trolling motor batteries. I have 3 all together.

 

My one Mega Crank HD AGM Battery - 925 CCA runs my engine, trim, livewells, electronics I have 3 HDS's networked, and some other electronic all running off of it but it need to be fully charged

 

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18 foot Hewes (1985) only one battery, no other electronics. everything that uses power is on switches, and all are off for daytime operation. New GPS is 12 to 32 volts according to manual. But low amps, has a 3amp fuse in line.

 

Peace

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It's most likely the voltage drop for the starter demand when you energize starting circuit. If you are running One battery this may be hard to change. Two batteries allows you to have a dedicated battery for electronics which will not only power them but filter their power as well.

Put a volt meter on the battery terminals while someone turns the key and you will see a significant drop. Your gps is most likely protecting itself from from the surge from the drop to the charging voltage once the motor starts. The old one was probably not as sensitive. My fish finder did it until I re-configured my wiring.

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Electronics are notoriously voltage sensitive, I would wire that gps direct, but put a power switch on your console and fire up the motor before I power up the gps.

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You need a new battery

Do you know stuff, or are you bored? You could be correct I need more info? Thanks

 

Electronics are notoriously voltage sensitive, I would wire that gps direct, but put a power switch on your console and fire up the motor before I power up the gps.

The old one was hooked up so it was only powered when the motor was on. When I drift I like to see the depth, hey I'm dealing with water that only goes from a foot to five or so. Would a direct wire make a difference?

 

Peace

 

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18 foot Hewes (1985) only one battery, no other electronics. everything that uses power is on switches, and all are off for daytime operation. New GPS is 12 to 32 volts according to manual. But low amps, has a 3amp fuse in line.

Peace

 

Yes thats what the GPS runs off of 12-32V. You need to get a voltage meter and test the battery first and if it checks then check the power line going to your GPS and it needs to read 12v or more. If it doesn't then you know the wire is not suited for the load you are putting on it and will need to run a separate wire. Now if it's the battery then you need a new battery and i would go with AGM.

 

And I would run a separate line for your electronics anyway so as to not have any problems again. ;)

 

 

 

 

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If you want to invest $10 in Radio Shack parts, I can suggest a circuit that should fix the problem.

1-4700 microfarad capacitor @ 35 volts. (272-1022).

1-Rectifier Diode 6A @ 50 PIV. They come in a pack of 4. (276-1661)

1-10 ohm resistor. Pack of 2. (271-132)

Connect the resistor in parallel with the diode by soldering the leads together. Connect this assembly to the plus side of the capacitor as follows: The anode or plus side of the diode should connect to the capacitor plus. Connect the minus side of the capacitor to ground. Connect the other side of the diode/resistor assembly to the load side of the fuse that feeds the chart plotter.

The capacitor charges slowly through the 10 ohm resistor. When you start your engine and the supply voltage drops, the capacitor voltage feeds the chart plotter and the diode prevents the capacitor from discharging.

I had the same problem and the above circuit worked fine, but I put it in front a sub-panel and hooked all my electronics to it.


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Wow! I wouldn't know how to do that, but I can understand how that would work. I will do this. It is the repetitive little PIAes that can add up to be a bother. Thanks to all my SOL buddies for their suggestions, and thank you for a solution to my problem.

 

Peace

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Keep in mind that you can increase the size of the capacitor and the amp rating of the diode if you plan to run more electronics off of this circuit. In fact, when I switched to a sub panel fed solution I used a 1 Farad capacitor sold in automotive audio stores for kids with the the subwoofers in their car. I also used a 220 amp diode. I can get you part numbers, and may have an extra diode for when I built mine. 



 



Another solution to your problem is to put a small 12 volt battery in parallel to you chart plotter - but this is not maintenance free like the capacitor solution. 


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Here's a pic of the circuit. It's very simple. You can put it in one of those black "project boxes" that Radio shack sells. I put mine in a small Pelican case since I eventually ended up going with a large 1 Farad capacitor. 



 



Electronics 101... capacitors are like batteries when charged and can be used a voltage regulators. Diodes allow current to flow in only one direction and act like "valves". In this circuit, the diode allows the current from the battery to charge the capacitor by allowing current to flow from + to -. When the voltage drops, the diode won't allow the capacitor to discharge, since current can't flow through it from - to +. This allows the capacitor to retain 12 volts across the terminals of the chart plotter and prevent it from rebooting. 



 



VoltageCircuit1.jpg


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Thanks for the drawing. What I was trying to say is I don't understand electronics enough to come up with a solution but I am handy enough to put something like that together when someone is kind enough to give it to me on a platter. And I do understand enough to see why it will work.

 

One 10 ohm resistor gets soldered on the + and - ends of the diode?

 

Peace

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